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Anyone else having trouble (and sick of it) with constant maintenance?

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  • Anyone else having trouble (and sick of it) with constant maintenance?

    I've got a 1994 or 95 Max II. It is in good overall condition and has been used lightly over the ten years I've owned it. I know the previous owner who bought it new and he never abused it either. I use it 90% of the time with tracks to access my fishing spots. Nothing too harsh, just unload and drive onto the ice a mile or so each time. Why is it I have to do constant maintenance to the drive chains, throttle cable, carburetor and other various components after only several uses? It pulls left and then it pulls right and for no apparent reason. Check the tire pressure. Check the chain tension in an attempt to correct the pull left/right issue. Can't get it right. It's maddening. Working on this thing is the most frustrating thing I've ever had to work on. Have you ever tried to change the left side (picture driver's side on a car) rear chain tensioner? I had to replace the entire unit because it would not hold in place. It is nearly impossible to access the bolts with the way it is design. If it sounds like I'm venting, yes I am. This is a great machine in some capacities. It glides over the ice/snow/slush when many ATV's cannot go. I pulled many out of the slush over the years and off the ice. Well, the good news to all this is my wife was witness to the latest debacle (won't go into the details), but after watching me wrestle with this, she agreed I should finally get a new side-by-side 4x4 ATV with a winter tracks it for next year. I was wanting to do that, but did not want to spend the money, but now with her blessing... that's where I'm heading this summer.

  • #2
    I have a 2000 max 4 with tracks but I do use mine very hard after being advised to remove the front chains my life has been somewhat easier. You are right about hard to work on, I will be moving the trans up and engine back this year hopefully.
    Last edited by Delduck; 03-08-2018, 09:29 PM.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by mjbuck View Post
      I've got a 1994 or 95 Max II. It is in good overall condition and has been used lightly over the ten years I've owned it. I know the previous owner who bought it new and he never abused it either. I use it 90% of the time with tracks to access my fishing spots. Nothing too harsh, just unload and drive onto the ice a mile or so each time. Why is it I have to do constant maintenance to the drive chains, throttle cable, carburetor and other various components after only several uses? It pulls left and then it pulls right and for no apparent reason. Check the tire pressure. Check the chain tension in an attempt to correct the pull left/right issue. Can't get it right. It's maddening. Working on this thing is the most frustrating thing I've ever had to work on. Have you ever tried to change the left side (picture driver's side on a car) rear chain tensioner? I had to replace the entire unit because it would not hold in place. It is nearly impossible to access the bolts with the way it is design. If it sounds like I'm venting, yes I am. This is a great machine in some capacities. It glides over the ice/snow/slush when many ATV's cannot go. I pulled many out of the slush over the years and off the ice. Well, the good news to all this is my wife was witness to the latest debacle (won't go into the details), but after watching me wrestle with this, she agreed I should finally get a new side-by-side 4x4 ATV with a winter tracks it for next year. I was wanting to do that, but did not want to spend the money, but now with her blessing... that's where I'm heading this summer.
      We all hate to see someone go ,but if that's where you headed , good luck.
      Before you toss the max, like delduck wrote you could try to remove the front chains as some have found less chain issues.
      However my suggestion is if you still have stick springs remove them, the machine will be better controlled though needing more stick control, no one handed driving, and you will loose the auto brake when in reverse. Some really like this control and some find it a bother, but it is much truer steering as you will be controlling the direction through forward pressure.

      Anyhoo, good luck either way. Jim
      sigpic

      My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
      Joe Camel never does that.

      Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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      • #4
        You can replace those rear factory chain adjusters with floating adjusters made by Snapidle. They are much easier to adjust. I like the Richard's Relics style adjusters for the front chains, super easy to fiddle with. The springs attached to the laterals are too stiff in my opinion, and Argojim makes a good argument to just remove them. I picked up a spring pack from Harbor Freight and switched mine out for a new pair and noticed that the laterals then were much more controlled. In terms of the carb and issues with it, I've found if you can find a gas station that sells non ethanol fuel you will be less plagued by carb issues.
        The Max 2 is an older design, so there is a lot of hands on to adjust this or that, but if you only have the one aatv, then it really doesn't take that much effort once you just get used to it. In terms of throttle cables, they occasionally break, but are pretty reliable.
        If you don't mind constantly doing this or that to the machine, a Max2 is a very nice machine and very capable if operated by someone who has experience with them. It may be the most capable of all the aatvs in fact.

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        • #5
          If you want to sale this maybe a good site to place an add. I have a 1990 Max II which has been rode hard by 3 owners. After replacing mega amount of parts. But now it super good so far. Good luck.

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          • #6
            I'm with ya! The Max IV is a bloody pain to work on and have had to adjust the rear drive chains a few times and still pulls to the left even with tire pressures the same. I service the heck out of it because it looks to me like it is likely to have problems due to the design. I change the oil in the trans every year with "F" and use limited slip additive to equal 32 OZ and the bands chatter a little when I turn (which bothers the hell out of me). The Kawasaki engine is very good as long as I use ethanol free gas in it, since it has a carb. It has very low ground clearance which is bad for the rocky area I live in. My UTV's and ATV's are low maintainance and trouble free. I wish I could trade my Max IV for a Kawasaki Terex4 or a Yamaha Wolverine4 passenger UTV to haul my grand kids. The Max rides like Sh*t and beats your spine todeath in rough terrain. No UTV dealers want it in a trade. Think I'm stuck with it and the $12,000 I have into it. But it floats good in the lake, especially with the pontoons on it (but then I have 2 boats for that).

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            • #7
              I do love my machine, and I agree on everything you’ve said.

              We had a topic about methods to make these machines more dependable and lower maintanence, because all these chains, all these bearings, are a lot to upkeep. To me, chains are Stone Age tech, we should be using poly-drive belts.
              sigpic

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              • #8
                All good points, but i like working on my max iv...the more i do, the more i learn. Good habits = Less headache

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                • #9
                  Two quick notes... lateral springs are adjustable. Loosen a nut to lessen the tension.
                  Secondly, belt-drive won't work. MuddOx had a team from Gates helping them test belts. All broke. MuddOx went to chain drive.

                  These machines do require routine service, but it isn't bad at all. I suppose one has to enjoy this sort of stuff to see it as a bit of enjoyment.
                  Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

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                  • #10
                    With the chains, I've found that when I got to the point of constantly adjusting them, that the chains were worn out anyway. Get yourself a new set of chains, and the adjusters I mentioned, and this machine should be less maintenance intense. I know that the factory R.I. rubber tracks put a thrashing on all aspects of the drivetrain.

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                    • #11
                      Save your money and step up to 21st century technology by buying a MuddTrax, they are hydraulic drive with no chains to worry about, have tracks instead of tires so you don't have to worry about air pressures or flats, and a healthy dose of suspension travel from real springs and shocks so you don't get beat up on less than smooth terrain. They are also amphibious, something your side-by-side won't be even with a track kit. No need to thank me, just enjoy the ride and tell them marauder sent you their way.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by marauder View Post
                        Save your money and step up to 21st century technology by buying a MuddTrax, they are hydraulic drive with no chains to worry about, have tracks instead of tires so you don't have to worry about air pressures or flats, and a healthy dose of suspension travel from real springs and shocks so you don't get beat up on less than smooth terrain. They are also amphibious, something your side-by-side won't be even with a track kit. No need to thank me, just enjoy the ride and tell them marauder sent you their way.
                        Show us some pictures of your new Muddtrax and hopefully a video of you running it through its paces.
                        Seems you have searched for the ultimate low cot tracked machine, I'd like to see you use it.
                        sigpic

                        My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                        Joe Camel never does that.

                        Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          MuddOx aatv's are chain drive.
                          Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

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                          • #14
                            ARGOJIM, go to litetrax.com or youtube and you'll see lots of pictures and videos, never claimed to own one.

                            Rusty-Gunn, what's your point? I'm talking MuddTrax, not MuddOx. For about the same money as a MuddOx you can own a MuddTrax, get a full track system driven hydraulically with a single joystick controller and have a real honest-to-goodness suspension system. Tires are so yesterday's technology for off-roading, step up to a tracks-only system and you'll never look back.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by marauder View Post
                              ARGOJIM, go to litetrax.com or youtube and you'll see lots of pictures and videos, never claimed to own one.

                              Rusty-Gunn, what's your point? I'm talking MuddTrax, not MuddOx. For about the same money as a MuddOx you can own a MuddTrax, get a full track system driven hydraulically with a single joystick controller and have a real honest-to-goodness suspension system. Tires are so yesterday's technology for off-roading, step up to a tracks-only system and you'll never look back.
                              I'm sorry I was under the impression from your advice that you were using a tracked and suspended hydraulic driven machine along with the mention of yourself to them, my mistake.
                              Am I to assume you still have not purchased a machine, I remember you interested in the Tinger but don't remember hearing of your purchase so I assumed you made a choice and purchased a machine.
                              sigpic

                              My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                              Joe Camel never does that.

                              Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

                              Comment

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