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Remove Front Chain and Chain Replacement Question

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  • Remove Front Chain and Chain Replacement Question

    I know there are a bunch of posts here about chains but could not find answers to my specific questions so I apologies if this has already been discussed.

    I have two questions:

    1) I have seen some people remove the front chains and ride with just the middle and rear chains. Does this put additional stress on the chains and sprockets that are still connected if you are using just tires?

    2) I found a broken plate on one of my front chains so I plan on replace both of the front chains. Is it best practice to replace all six chains at once or is it ok to just replace the front two chains if the other four are still in decent condition (just slight stretching)?

    Thanks

  • #2
    I can't say if addt'l. stress is placed on remaining chains when the fronts are removed. I would assume not. However, if ya run no tracks with the front wheels not driving you shall notice a huge difference in the capability of your machine!
    I can not think of any reason that one,two,more or all chains being replaced would cause any issues. I'd replace the fronts if necessary.
    sigpic

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    • #3
      i also see no reason to replace all chains as long as the rear ones are not stretched so far the tensioners do not take up the slack. as far as removing front chains...i'm not sure what machine you have , but when i removed the front chains on my max 2 , it did'nt turn nearly as easy as when the front wheels were driving also. you will loose some front wheel pulling power. if you were in a ditch and the center wheels are off the ground..only the back tires are driving. hope this helps . johnboy va.

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      • #4
        Thank you. I have a Max II. I am not sure of the year (Serial No 10394). I was going through it changing oil, filters, cleaning and greasing chains etc and noticed the front left chain looked a bit off when I realized it was because one plate on a link was broken. I am not sure if there is a way to fix just the one broken link but I am guessing the chains are a bit old and I have taken the roller tensioners in just about all the way so I think it is time to replace at least the front chains. Thank you again for the help.

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        • #5
          good idea... replacing the chains should let you drop the tensioners back so you will have plenty of takeup as they stretch. get some good chain like diamond brand, not cheap japanese, it won't last long. i used a co. called u.s.a. roller chain. they had good chain and prices. 10' in a box. can check them online. j.b.

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          • #6
            I have my max 4 with the front chains removed, I was directed by guys on this site a year ago to remove the fronts and it was the best thing I ever did, it eliminated my chain binding problem. I run rubber tracks on it so I highly recommend it. Now on my max 2 I don’t run tracks so I leave the chains on them. Hops this helps.

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            • #7
              delduck...i'm just curious if you have run the max 4 with the tracks off and no front chains. my max 2 would turn, it just seemed somewhat harder and a little more power needed to turn it. thanks, j.b.

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              • #8
                Jb I have not run without tracks on the 4. That machine is just used for mashing down phragmitis so it needs the tracks, before I put tracks on I was stuck 5 ft into the marsh with all 6 wheels spinning. The max 2 I have I want to put tracks on it also but can’t find rubber tracks, and the chloroplasts tracks slip in the wet reeds. We put the ice studs on them and it didn’t help much.

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                • #9
                  I doubt that anyone was thinking of running any machine with no tracks and front chains off....I believe that was only to be done when running tracks...it makes sense if you think about it....dozers, tanks, etc that have tracks only use one point of drive, usually a sprocket drive of some sort. However, if you did remove front chains, and tried to drive/turn your Max II/IV, the none 'driven' wheel set would just be a source of friction when turning, and not an aid...also you would find climbing over obstacles much harder, as you would be "pushing" the non-driven set vs having them assist you.

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                  • #10
                    well i'm looking forward next week in testing my highboy max 2 at busco beach '' mudfest'' with the 25'' mud tires on front and the half tracks on back compared to my full adair tracks. will give a report after the weekend as to how it performed and hopefully some videos will follow.......johnboy va. p.s. the weekend after easter .

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                    • #11
                      I’d be interested in that test

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                      • #12
                        Without tracks, as previously suggested, in my view, is not an option. Without pulling power on front wheels you would have great difficulty getting out of water when the front wheels first make contact with the shoreline, which in many instances can be steep embankments. Your rear wheels would simply spin in water. Also less propulsion.

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                        • #13
                          Murray has a very good point. JohnBoy you know I will be there to pull you out if you need me. You will need someone else at night, we will not be doing any night rides. Question Sir, will you bring the other part of the track just in case you are stuck a lot?

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                          • #14
                            deedee... i'm going to shoot for the gold with just halftracks !! ' what i lost in just what amounts to about three of the track treads or 14'' on the ground i have made up in extra power gained. the front 25'' tires have a pretty aggressive tread . i can always count on you during the day buddy for pullouts.. at nite i can bring my tent along and sleep on the trail till morning. thanks.. looks like good mud !! j.b.

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