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MAX 4 MODS PART 1 radiator relocation

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  • MAX 4 MODS PART 1 radiator relocation

    I am in the process of some fairly extensive modifications to my MAX 4

    I have the kawasaki FD750 liquid cooled engine .

    I have relocated radiator from the top of engine to be inline with the crankshaft
    With the cooling fan directly connected to a stub shaft mounted to the flywheel

    FCC05603-DEA2-4EBA-A54F-545DF469BB5C.jpg

    The stubshaft is a 2nd hand unit from a john Deere 550, or Toro,made for the kawasaki
    Air cooled versions to run a cooling fan

    I punctured my radiator backing into a tree branch a year ago, so having the radiator
    Mounted lower will protect it.
    The other plus is if the air cleaner is shifted lower, you now have a decent size
    Cargo storage compartment about 6 inches deep.

    EE2D97FB-1AA4-4794-9C6E-108AB89B2E82.jpg1ED7EB87-ACA8-4C92-BF7C-96F1C98EE9B4.jpg

    But the primary purpose for release acting radiator is to provide space for a belt driven alternator, a small AMR300 supercharger and a PTO drive.

    To be continued.......

    OZ

  • #2
    Just completed close to 10 hours running time, to see how the cooling mod performed

    Initially I had a problem with the overtemp light coming on. Laser temp gun had the inlet manifold adjacent to the overtemp sensor at 95 C , when light came on. But after shutting down engine I could put my finger in the radiator fluid, eg it was barely warm.

    Below the manufacturer setup for the radiator
    The fan is geared slightly faster to a 1.16 ratio.
    But more importantly, the fan blows air past cylinder heads and inlet, being a V engine, some cooling air flow reaches the exhaust.

    72AC84FA-DF8A-4C41-A469-F24C1CBD6481.jpg

    So when overtemp light came on, looked like my design was flawed
    Researched radiator cooling design and changed a few things.

    First I insulated the overtemp sensor from exhaust radiated heat with Kevlar exhaust
    Tape and high temp silastic and made a heat shield for exhaust out of 16 gauge stainless steel (very challenging to weld with my TIG )
    this improved things greatly.

    8E82B7F0-305A-489E-8DC8-7FAAE6DB083C.jpg

    Next I discovered my fan was mounted too far from radiator core, so moved it closer
    To 1 inch from radiator core. This is considered the most efficient spacing for fan

    These Changes were enough to sort out the cooling system, after a 2 hour run yesterday,
    With a fast run on the beach, my temp gage stays between 70 and 75 degrees C.
    Laser temp gun shows 61 C out of engine to radiator and 30 C pipe temp after radiator
    Cyl head temps 87 to 97 C

    50AF6E74-35EF-4DE2-AE25-D1C73746060C.jpg

    Am adding an electric fan which primarily,will provide airflow to cylinder heads, inlet manifold and exhaust like the original installation did.

    F4AEEE3C-ECBD-4A17-9D4B-5EF23BD60182.jpg

    So far so good

    OZ

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