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MAX II wiring

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  • MAX II wiring

    I recently fixed the wiring for the headlamps on my MAX II and installed LED lamps. What an amazing difference. The incandescent lamps were always flickering and were not really that bright. I purchased these LED lamps and I like them.

    I am now considering new wiring throughout to possibly solve/prevent some of the problems that I have been encountering.

    My question is now, has anyone tried using the "new wiring harness" and installing in an older (mine 1996) MAX II? Does it or will it work without problems?

  • #2
    The newer wiring harness probably uses the 7 pin ignition switch. Gives you an accessory wire and heated throttle cable plug installed

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    • #3
      Thanks, I had read the product description. I am just still wondering if anyone on this forum has purchased and installed this on one of the older style machines. I would really like to purchase one and install. I just wonder if anyone who has done this already has some insight into any issues that I might run into.

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      • #4
        With regard to MAX II: As I continue to have wiring issues, I am trying to delve into the available wiring information. I realize a "new"wiring harness may have the 7 pin key switch, and that should not be a problem. However, having downloaded a "wiring diagram", does anyone have or know of a better annotated diagram. The ones available, either rev E or G are relatively lacking in information as to where each plug/spade, o-ring terminal is to be connected. I have tried to "annotate" a printed copy myself, but am not sure that I may have gotten everything correct.

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        • #5
          I'm just restoring the MaxII I bought, and the wiring was a complete mess. Most of it was corroded, and the wires just fell apart as I gently tugged on several. The power to the UHF radio was corroded through the case, and the wiring to the winch was all badly corroded and where it wasn't corroded it had shorted.

          I don't know if it's just an Australian thing, but someone had installed an electronic rust prevention system as well, and that was a huge amount of worthless wiring that had destroyed who-knows how many batteries.

          I've separated the winch wiring from the harness, and also the ignition wiring, and will rewire the ignition wiring soon, and then run high intensity LED lamps from the top bar for night use, and infrared LEDs for night work and finding foxes.

          I don't know much about a factory replacement harness, but going through the wiring that looked good, and cutting away the insulation to see it was actually corroded beneath the colored plastic told me that it's worth replacing and simplifying. Putting in some waterproof connectors and getting it all good again, and replacing all the switches on the control panel too.

          Since it's necessary to deal with the wiring when removing the top of the tub, I think it's worth the effort to make it as easy as possible... And better wiring will be easier to troubleshoot in the future too. Not to mention some auto electricians got in there at some point and made an even bigger mess of things

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