Introduction and Questions

[WolfMann]

Hey everyone, made an introduction in the specified thread but wanted to say hello here too. A couple days ago thanks to the generosity of a family friend, I picked up a Max ii 6x6 with the 16hp Briggs Vanguard engine. I didn't realize how quickly I'd get hooked on these aatvs but it happened. I've spent most of my free time since familiarizing myself with the ins and outs, and performing some basic maintenance. Downloaded and read through the manual available on this site but still had a few questions...

Previous owner said they had installed inner tubes in tires while they had it, I've seen that referenced on this site before, is this a common mod? What are advantages?

I've tried to link pictures below, I hope I did so correctly and they can be seen, there's a roll bar installed and I'm wondering if that's from the factory or if it's an aftermarket/homemade add on? Hoping someone might know.

I noticed the front right chain has snapped at some point, looks like the master link lost its retaining clip, possibly over/under tightened? I've read on here about removing front chains for convenience. Can anyone provide more info on whether this is a good/bad idea?

The machine came with a set of plastic tracks, hub extensions, and extra tires. My intention is to use it as a snow vehicle (we live at an altitude in Northern California, and while every winter is different, several feet is not uncommon).I'm wondering how plastic tracks hold up compared to rubber? I've seen that you're able to replace the individual plastic pieces if need be and I like that.

I'm also curious about the practicalities of an enclosed cab? What I gather from reading around is you need to fabricate one yourself?

Are there any reinforcements/modifications that would compliment the planned snow tracks?

I hope the post isn't too long, thought it would be better to be as detailed as possible. Thank you in advance for any help/advice, looking forward to learning more through the community here.

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[tbone9]

The roll bar looks great. Definitely not stock.

Inner tubes are not recommended because water can get inside and rust out the rim. Also if tire spins on the rim can shear the stem off especially when running tracks.

Is your machine set up for tracks? You can tell by looking for bearing cages. Look between the wheels and the tub. There should be square bearing holders allowing three bearings per axel. If just an axel sticking out from tub then do not run tracks, you’ll be sure to bend on axel or trash bearings. As for removing front chains that is highly recommended when running tracks on a Max IV. Not sure about the II. Maybe someone can chime in on that.

As for a cab, you can check with someone that makes boat covers. I had one made and was real happy with it.

[WolfMann]

Thanks for the response tbone
It doesn't sound like there's much advantage to running inner tubes, Im wondering why they were installed in first place... I'll have to get the tire off and investigate.

It does not look like there are bearing cages mounted on the axles. After searching the site it seems like there's a factory option or you could build your own, is that right? Are there other ways to reinforce axles?

I'll have to look online for someone who makes boat covers around me, see if that's an option.

[tbone9]

If you’ve got the older style hollow axles I wouldn’t consider tracks. You might be able to buy bearing cages if not some have made their own. See my thread “enclosed bearing cages.” Although not quite as strong as factory they should suffice.

[WolfMann]

Thank you, more to look into.

[WolfMann]

I've seen a few people suggest putting a length of 3/4 round inside of the hollow axles for more support. Is this generally recommended?

[WolfMann]

I ran the serial number through the list stickied at the top of the page. It looks like either a 90 or 91 Drykilned Vanguard 16HP. Im curious what drykilned means?

But if i understand right the solid axles weren't introduced until 98? This would mean I have the old hollow style axles yeah? As far as I can tell there's only the one bearing through the tub. Nothing inboard other than a stub-shaft between axles.

[allwheeldrive]

While I'm not doubting decades of experience and not having ever owned a Max before.
It is interesting to me that a hallow axle would be any more prone to bending than a solid one.
I must assume the steel itself used in the hallow axles are of inferior durability / temper?
Structurally a tube regardless of the wall thickness will have within only a few % difference in strength to a solid one (talking bending loads not shearing such as from torque/twisting) thinner walled tubes are much more pron to denting and thus failing but speaking strictly from an end to end load IE bearing to hub with nothing physically striking the surface of the tube section I wouldn't think there would be much difference. Likewise filling the void inside with any material harder than expanding foam wouldn't produce much extra durability.
A solid shaft that fits within a hallow one will by default have a much lower yield strength as the outer diameter is the most crucial function of a shapes strength. Likewise fiberglass panels are often laid up between thick pieces of simple foam. The foam gives the panels an overall thicker body which can duplicate the rigidity and strength of a SOLID panel of fiberglass at a fraction of the weight.

My question to the OP is did the previous owner ever mount the tracks previously? Tracks running only on soft snow is a LOT less of an issue on hard ground or mud.
He likely used tire tubes because the tires had leaks either holes or bead leaks.

[WolfMann]

Thank you for the response allwheeldrive, I don't know much about the strength difference between solid vs hollow tubes, but after reading your response i did a little research online and found at least one link that suggests a hollow tube can have a higher resistance to bending than a solid one (while still weighing less). If i understand right it has to do with wall thickness and outer diameter. I will try to share link below.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1572475435598

[WolfMann]

So to repeat what you said, adding a solid tube inside a hollow axle would not drastically increase bending resistance but might help prevent a failure from denting, at the cost of added weight?

[WolfMann]

To answer the question, the previous owner told me he had used the tracks in snow before without any trouble. He mentioned it was fairly deep, coming up to the top of the tub. However i got the sense this wasn't something he did every day of the winter, but more of an occasional thing.

[ARGOJIM]

If you made some type of bearing extensions that would be a plus for tracks and not, I've had the old style machine bearing failure and it sucks. Once the lock collar fails the axle walks due to no inner bearing ruining you day until replaced, a second bearing being installed at inner frame rail or in the bearing extensions would be much more reliable for tracks.
You should be ok with plastic tracks without bearing extensions as there is some slippage in plastic tracks compared to rubber but they would help.
The older factory wheels where common to loose beads especially as tires get older and harder , the owner may have installed tubes to compensate for leaks or to help keep beads seated.

[ARGOJIM]

As long as I'm yackin, I'm not sure I'd trust that roll bar as it looks like exhaust tubing but be sure it is tied to frame for actual safety and if so wear the belts. I see a twist throttle conversion and an internal exhaust conversion.

[WolfMann]

Thanks ArgoJim, I didn't know there was more play in the plastic tracks versus rubber. I was wondering what it would take to add bearings to the inner frame rail, might start with that and see where it leads.

That makes sense about older tires losing beads.

I didn't know the twist throttle was a modification, PO mentioned new exhaust and that it was quieter.

Good tip about the roll bar, i think it's just bolted to the body.

[john swenson]

i've always understood that a solid shaft in terms of bending , tensile , and compression forces will be more stronger for the same material dimensions as well as loading. strength to weight ration is better for hollow than solid. hollow can withstand the same stress as solid. so i would think alot depends on the application . banging along a trail in a 6x6 is different than say a jackshaft type application . interesting to know whose changed from hollow to solid on a aatv and found they were'nt bending axles anymore . johnboy va.