Bad key ignition?

[Rusty-Gunn]

Our 2005 Max4 decided it didn't want to start while we were out berry picking today. I can hear a "werrring" sound that leads me to believe the starter spins, but it does not engage the engine. The starter was new, installed last year, and worked all summer.
I also noted my headlights don't turn on, even though the wires are on the lights (I have auxillary LED lights that are brighter, so I never was concerned about the factory lights not lighting up previously).
The 2 amp fuse under the dash is fine. I don't know if there are other fuses elsewhere.
Also, when turning the key, it 'seems' the key turns more than previous, like its worn out.
Could this be an indication the ignition is faulty, or a faulty starter selenoid?
Thanks.

[Laird]

The whirring noise sounds like the starter bendex not kicking in. The no headlights could be from a faulty switch, also the starter but also could be a low battery situation. I would check the battery for a full charge and if in doubt of the switch, change it out. This may sound stupid but check that the switch is tight and not turning when the key is turned. I am in doubt the solenoid is bad because the starter is trying to engage. What engine is in the machine?

[Rusty-Gunn]

Thank you for responding. I will check the things you mentioned. I'm pretty sure the battery is/was charged, as we used the winch a bit getting the machine out of the swamps during recovery, and used it again to pull it into our "garage" (shipping container connex) we use for winter storage. It could have been too low to start though. I'll put it on the charger and top it off.
The engine is a Kohler Command 25.

[Rusty-Gunn]

I had about 15-20 minutes today to pull the battery off, and now have it on the charger.
After popping out the left factory headlight to gain access to tje ignition wires, they seem to put in their proper place, the ignition bolted on tightly, and looks to be a 7-pin.
I did check the headlights, and they don't turn on.
Once the battrry is charged we'll go back and go over the ignition better, I didn't have much time earlier.

[dirtdobber]

I agree the sound likely was the starter turning, unless you have something else that runs with the key on (like a fan or bilge pump). Let's assume it was the starter. Either the starter gear is bad and not engaging or the starter isn't spinning fast enough for it to engage. Since the starter was replaced new last year, it is unlikely the gear is bad. The starter is not loose and about to fall off is it?

If the starter is spinning too slow it could be a weak battery or it could be a bad connection somewhere between the battery positive cable and the starter. Although the solenoid worked in that it delivered power to the starter, it could still be bad. The contacts inside the solenoid can become burned or corroded and create a bad connection, or no connection. To eliminate this possibility, jump across the large posts and see if it starts normally (make sure you don't run over yourself).

[Rusty-Gunn]

Dirtrobber
Thanks. I did charge up the battery. We go from there.

[Rusty-Gunn]

I got the engine to start. Most likely a near-dead battery. It gave a chance to clean up a lot of electical terminals though.
Thanks for the suggestions, much sppreciated. Lesson learned - charge battery regularly. Lol

[Laird]

You may want to check the charging system. If you have a multimeter, check the DC voltage in the battery, then fire the engine. You should get a higher reading even at an idle. As you rev the engine, the volts should increase. If not, then you may have a charging issue. If that's the case, make sure the voltage reg/rectifier (the aluminum thing attached to the shroud) is grounded. If the engine shroud is plastic, you will need an external ground strap. If grounded properly then test for AC voltage coming from the engine. You pull the block off the reg and put one probe in the one outside wire and other probe on other outside wire. You should get I believe from between 25-36 volts AC. If you do then check for DC volts by reinstalling the block and then use your positive probe on the centre terminal and the negative to ground. You should get 13 to 14 ish volts. IF you do get the proper voltage there but not to the battery, you have an eletrical current flow prolem. You may all know this but just in case others don't.

[dirtdobber]

Glad you got it going. If the charging system is working correctly, you could have more electrical demand than the charging system can meet, thus draining your battery. These small engines do not have very robust charging systems, so if you do a lot of winching, radio, lights, pump, fan etc running then the charging system won't keep up.

[Rusty-Gunn]

Thanks for the responces. I don't have a multi-meter. I may need one, they seem to nice devices. Never had one.
I'll keep an eye on the battery, this has only happened once before in the years we owned it.
It did have an auxillary alternater installed when we bought the machine, but I removed it and tossed it, believing it wad burnt out (I think I posted about this some years back).

[Rusty-Gunn]

This Max4 did it again. It wouldn't start, just the starter seems to spin. It worked fine all week. But, on this ride, it would not start.
It isn't a dead battery, it's fully charged.
I'm convinced it's the key ignition, which I think is worn out. The key flops about, indicating too much play.
When I removed the lefthand head light, and look at the ignition, the rear of the ignition has a lot of wires packed in that tiny spot. It appears to be a 7-pin.
I'm going yo order one and swap them out. I hope it's the solution.
BTW, we're getting into early winter up here, and we'll be parking the Max in our "garage" (shipping container connex) until next spring. I may have to postpone any repairs until then. Wait and see...