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Lots of play in one axle

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  • Lots of play in one axle

    I have a 1983 Max ll 6X6. While checking air pressures I noticed my center passenger side tire moved. I took the rim off and the axle and hub, all the way to the inside of the machine to the sprocket and chain has a lot of play, both up down and in and out.
    I'm new to these machines. Can anyone here tell me what they know it is, and how to fix it?
    Any information, advice or remedy is appreciated.
    Thanks

  • #2
    It sounds like your outer bearing is shot and perhaps the inner bearing (or bushing) too. Where the axle passes through the tub it rides in a bearing. Move the axle up and down and you should see that the bearing is worn out.

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    • #3
      Agreed, It's getting to the problem, and removing it that has me a little anxious. It's probably been close to 40 years since any of that stuff has been touched. Now it's all rust seized. Just getting the retainer off with the allen head set screw is not going to be a picnic.

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      • #4
        Let the battle begin. I battled mine, taught me how to take care of the machine properly.

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        • #5
          Why fight that battle? Just cut the retaining bolts/nuts from the outside and replace them with new on reassembly. Use a cutting torch, or a die grinder with a cut-off wheel. Same goes for the through-axle bolt on the sprocket when you go to pull the axle out. Be sure to check the play in the 3/4" ID inner bronze bushing. There's a 3/4" OD stub-axle that goes through the frame, retained by a cotter key, that the bushing rides on. Be sure to check it for wear also. If the stub-axle end is also worn out, usually both sides have to come apart to replace it. Just pulled all 6 axles and had to replace all 6 bushings. Bushing are a PITA to get out.... Takes a blind bearing puller

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          • #6
            Originally posted by trevorakm1 View Post
            Let the battle begin. I battled mine, taught me how to take care of the machine properly.
            The bronze bushing wear was a lack of long-term thinking on the part of the design Engineer. Grease zerks should have been installed the axle ends to grease the bushings. The only one that has a clearance problem for running a grease zerk is the left rear, because of the motor mount cushion mounting bolt.

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            • #7
              They usually come apart easy, you may have to fight the wear in the sprocket bolt hole.

              I would not use a torch.
              sigpic

              My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
              Joe Camel never does that.

              Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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              • #8
                Tough to get a wrench (Box end, or open) on the inside head of the very upper bolt unless you slide the sprocket toward the inside frame rail first. As far as using a torch, having a DIY skill set, limits the tools a guys feel comfortable using. If you don't know have a lot of experience adjusting the regulator pressures and cutting head for a quick clean cut and use a Oxy-torch like a flamethrower, you probably need to stay away from a torch for any job.

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                • #9
                  Thanks folks. I ended up replacing both right center and left center axle bearings, retainers and bushings. It was a great introduction to how these things work. Yes, the bushing was toast in both axles. Tried the blind puller with no success. Ended up cutting a slot in it and using a little heat. Access to everything is very tight in there. All of it was a learning curve, but one of the pains was the darn master links. Finding them, getting to the clips, removing and getting them back on. One didn't even have the clip. One of the po's put them in facing the wrong way which made it difficult to get to the clip. All in all it went well and I learned a lot. I also found several things to fix or adjust while I was in there. I feel like she's ready for winter now.
                  Thanks again,
                  Gordon

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