Fuel Tank placement Front or Rear?

[superherojohn]

Is there a weight distribution problem with a rear mounted fuel tank?

In my Max II rebuild, I need to replace the front fuel tank due to rust. Replacing a fuel tank in the orginial location is expensive because the tank has to be an (8x24?) cylinder! RI wants $160 for the plastic tank and $79 for the brackets. Replacement with a dunebuggy Spun-Aluminum tank = $175. There is room for a 5 Gal military type gas tank besides the 18hp B&S in the rear but I don't want the front so light that it floats funny and can't climb a hill.
Is anyone running without the fuel in the front?

[Mike]

I don't think I would move the tank. Your max is already biased heavily towards the rear. If you do, perhaps you can at least relocate your battery to the front and maybe even a storage bin for your gear. With a full tank that's ~40 lbs. that you are taking away from the front and ~40 lbs. that you are adding to the rear.

A pretty big weight change. Surely you can buy or fabricate a tank even if it is not cylindrical to go in the front. Even a square tank that held less would be a better choice in my opinion.

In the end it really depends on what you are doing with your Max. If it's basic trail riding or for working around the house / farm / etc. then you would probably be fine but if you do a lot of mud or swimming I would leave it where it's at.

One other option is to post here in the wanted section. You may be surprised at what you find.

[argohunter]

Mike hit the nail on the head with the weight distribution. Placing the fuel source in the back next to the engine creates a big concern with fuel vapors igniting and explosion. Even a poly plastic Jerry can next to the engine places it close too close to the the starter relay and other spark sources. Poly tanks suitable for fuels are available from a number of sources but they are not always cheap.

If the existing tank is not leaking too bad (pinholes) and has rust scale or flaking inside, it may be a suitable candidate to clean and purge it and then reseal it with a fuel resistant elastomer such as Kreem. (This stuff is not for poly or fiberglass tanks in case anyone is wondering.)

It's not cheap stuff but it does work providing the directions are followed properly.

[superherojohn]

Vapors next to the engine are BAD

you are right vapors next to the engine a bad news.
This is a link to a poly tank I'm considering if anyone else is looking. Buggy Fuel Systems - Page 1

[jkc9392]

GAS TANK

Take your old tank to alocal sheetmetalshop and have it rebuilt.I,m a sheetmetal worker and had no problem rebuilding my own. If tour filler neck is good all you nee is apiece of pipe rolled up and endcaps. Don't forget to weld in drain plug.