What do you think? TO BUY OR NOT TO BUY

[bigkill]

Found a max II on craigslist and am going look at it tomorrow. Have always wants a 6x6 and here is my chance. Thing is I usually ride motocross not 6x6 so don't know of all the things to look for to avoid a lemon.

So what can I do beside ride it and kick the tires?

Also the guy tells me he doesn't have any idea what year it is.. all I have is these pictures. I figured the engine type might help narrow down the year. Its a Vangaurd 16hp.

Any idea of its value considering it's in expected running condition.

Hope to have pics of me getting stuck with the kids pushing from the back covered in mud soon!

[superherojohn]

New purchase Check list

First of all you really can fix anything but it is all more expensive than you might think.
-Good tires ($60/each for new tires)
-The hull should be solid.
-Check the oil & air filter (oil is cheap but if the guy didn't take care of the little things he didn't take care of the big things)
-Bent axles (huge hassle to fix)(front axle is the first to check)(watch the wheels from all sides when someone else is driving slow)
-rusty chains (means the guy let it sit out in the rain with the drian plugs in)
-16hp is good engine but on the small side (no tracks for you)
-Does he have a title?(you will need one to register it as a boat)

A good price??? Hard to judge from a few photos.. $2000-$4000? For the average used MAX II less than $2000 is a steal, more than $4000 it better be damn near new.

Other advice:
-Take a lawn mower battery with you (so you can use the electric start, electric start is a must)
-A compression test is tricky due to a decompression release on the engine while starting.
-Take your own "fresh" gas.
-Remember these things have no suspension. The ride will be jaring compaired to a dirt bike.
-Brakes on most of these suck.

Best of luck!

[6X6]

Hi BigKill:
If there's junk on the frame, clean it off to see if your badly rusted. If you can jack it up and check for play in the bearings that's great. Bearings are cheap but a HUGE, I'll restate that HUGE pain to do if they and the sprocket tubes are frozen together, and if other parts are not well maintained or rusty, they will be. However, once done, as long as you use anti-seize, it'll be much easier from then on. I would also try and drain a little fluid out of the tranny (just a bit) Should be red in color (it's ATF, gear oils will kill the tranny) If it's chunky, burnt, or has water in it, pass unless you get it REALLY cheap. (couple hundred bucks) Tranny parts can be big bucks! Good luck, and just remember that they really are simple machines, so if something doesn't seem right, it's probably not, and should be taken into consideration on the $$$.

[LarryW]

It may not be exactly the year of the Max but the engine can be Id with the code. first 2 digits is year, then month, then day, then 2 more digits for something else not needed. The Max should be new but depend on how long the engine sat before the max was made. But will give you Idea.

Main thing I would do is already stated with bearing check. Jacked up bearing check. Make sure no holes or gashes. Make sure both side seem to brake and drive same speeds.

[Eldon]

My Two Cents Worth: After playing around for years with motorcycles,tractors and more recently six-wheelers:- Something cheap always appears on the surface to be a really good buy.If any machine needs extensive work to make it enjoyable hindsight will prove that the better buy would be to take enough time to find a machine that has been really well cared for(a true find) and then negotiate the best deal you can from there.It will overall be the steal over something ancient and neglected or abused.My experience with a Max would be to worry about the engine the least,the T-20 transmission the most ,and the tub condition next followed by the drive train(bearings,chains).The reason for my priorities are:the engine can be removed and taken to a good mechanic and be overhauled to near new condition fairly reasonably and these mechanics are out there.The T-20 is a much more specialized job with expensive parts the experts are much harder to find.The tub if damaged can probably be repaired but never to pristine condition.The bearings and chains can be replaced but with a lot of work and expense.This aside the difference in a neglected abused old machine and the well cared ready to roll machine might be as little as $1000 or a little more.This difference won't put a dent in the repairs I have just talked about.

[bigkill]

On track

superherojohn, 6x6, Larry, MANY THANKS! I feel better heading into this purchase now.

So when I jack it up to see if I have play in the bearings.. can I just stick the jack anywhere on the bottom? Or will it be obvious where I need to put the jack?

On the bearing test how much play is expected? I'm sure a little knock or small wiggle is okay, correct?

Lets say when watching the wheels while driving I do notice the some odd rotation. Where is "the best" site to price parts for this thing so I can figure out what to offer this guy?

Also I don't have any water to go swimming in so I might be forced to take his word that there is no leaks.. but I'm sure a solid hull and no cracks on the body should be a good indicator. heck maybe fill it with water and see if leaks from the inside out.. or umm no nm

Many thanks for the tips will let you all know how it turns out!

Oh he is asking $2500 and says he is willing to negotiate.. we have a live one fellas!

[bigkill]

ELDON

Good point Obi One.. I just read the bearing and axl replacement guide in the articles section.. that is one job I would rather not do... ever. I hope this machine was well maintained.. wish wish wish wish we will see.
Thanks for the input!

[Eldon]

Obi One? LOL. Best of luck BigKill on your purchase.If you model has solid axles(RI could tell you by serial number) then the axles will probably be just fine but..........the bearings do have an expiry date.

[atvrider93]

chances are that sooner or later you will have to replace an axle because they dont have any suspension so all the shock goes straight to the axles and bearings

[bigmandengo]

id say its a mid 90's considering the vanguard and the clear gas tank