New Max owner. Please Help

[brushcutter]

Robinson, the secondary has a snapring that holds the 2 halves together. These are situated so that the individual halves of the driven clutch can open/close which allows the clutch to change its gearing, hence the name cvt. If the sheave halves are broken loose from their sleeve or hub then you will need a new clutch. If they are bent badly, you will probably need a new clutch, but most likely you will find that the inner workings such as the bore where it slides onto the tranny is wallowed out. Or the sleeves that are attached to the sheaves are worn and have enough slack to allow a wobble, or...

Before you give up on it, anchor it down so that it doesn't fall on your foot, take hold of it and see if you can find out what is causing it to wobble, it could be an easy fix, such as a loose bolt, or worn keyway/key.

[brushcutter]

Lets try this...
and see if it helps.

[brushcutter]

I have a scanner and I ain't askeerd ta use it !!!

[robinson01]

That certainly does help. I will taker off today and have a look. Heres hoping its nothing major.

[robinson01]

Brushcutter, you sure know ur stuff. You were right, the bore is wollowed out. After a bit of cleaning The clutch its self is pretty good. I have searched and called around. I am wondering what it will take to fix. I cant seem to rap my head around it.Thanks again.

[Kabruta]

Call recreative industries (RI) You can buy just the clutch half and the woodruf key you need. I cant remember the exact amount but it was like 120.00 bucks. Make you a compression tool. Good luck

[brushcutter]

Call recreative industries (RI) You can buy just the clutch half and the woodruf key you need. I cant remember the exact amount but it was like 120.00 bucks. Make you a compression tool. Good luck

Kabruta, Cool compressor Reckon he might want to slap in a red spring while he's at it? Ya know in case he "just has to" go to something like 25" tires later. Or mayhaps he's into speed... Now what color is that high speed spring?

[robinson01]

Thanks to everyone for your help. My buddy is a tool and die guy and he stopped over. As it turns out the shaft is worn and the driven clutch is fine. Any suggestions on how to fix this one. Or any suggestions on how to replace it. Cheers.

[rdr]

Thanks to everyone for your help. My buddy is a tool and die guy and he stopped over. As it turns out the shaft is worn and the driven clutch is fine. Any suggestions on how to fix this one. Or any suggestions on how to replace it. Cheers.

rec or get hime to make it and have it harding .

[robinson01]

Thanks for a fast response RDR. I am will likely get him to make one. I was just wondering if anyone has ever tried some other method of eliminating the the movement. bigger keyway? Or something along those lines.
Is it a big job to replace the shaft. I looked over the t-20 rebuild section in the how too section and it looks a little over whelming.
Thanks again. Cheers.

[rdr]

Thanks for a fast response RDR. I am will likely get him to make one. I was just wondering if anyone has ever tried some other method of eliminating the the movement. bigger keyway? Or something along those lines.
Is it a big job to replace the shaft. I looked over the t-20 rebuild section in the how too section and it looks a little over whelming.
Thanks again. Cheers.

hi rob. is not anything to be worryied about i went in my max II blind and no pic or help . it's simple/ and now that mike has pic and text up you can do it np . make sure if you have a shaft built . you get it heat treated to harden it . that way it should not wear or break . robbie

[robinson01]

Well I was out messing around and had a brain wave or fart for that matter. Hopefully you guys can tell me which one.
I have no real support network around here as no one had ever heard of Max. I live next to the argo manufacturing plant and its all argo up here. I really want to make this max a success. I do appologize for relying so heavily on everyone for help.
Anyhow my brain wave/fart. There was two large washers/spacers between the inside of the driven clutch and the spocket. I took them off and bingo. Snug. Not perfect as I did not put the bolt on. And I may need a new keyway as the old one looks a little worn. Further, it appeares there is some very very slight movement in the shaft its self, up down in and out. No leaks tho.
Does this sound like a practical fix or are those washers imparative to the workings?

[brushcutter]

About your worn shaft; if it is only the key way that is worn, there are a couple of fixes for that. A step key is one, filing the keyway and custom building key is another. When I swapped to a red spring in mine, the inner key/keyway were both slightly worn so I filed the keyway and with a couple small welds on the key to add width, I was able to file it to fit: no more slack.

[brushcutter]

I looked at Mudbugs MaxIV, the washers that you mentioned are spacers. If you remove them it will allow the driven(secondary) pulley to move out of alignment with the engine(primary) pulley. This will almost certainly cause the belt to wear out much sooner than normal.

Aaaahhhhh the joys of owning an amphib!

[robinson01]

Very good point brushcutter. I thought I might be able to slide the engine itself over the 4m or so to compensate. Do you think that would help?
As much as I feel I little out to lunch on this stuff I am starting to enjoy doing the work and am now getting close to reasembling. Which makes me even more eager.
Thanks for your reply.