Remove motor to get to my T-20 ?

[BenDawg]

Well I put about 20 hours on my max4 and I’m going to change the tranny oil. Problem is it’s under the engine. (Wow what a Nob thing to ask you all). I’m really hoping I don’t have to remove engine to get to this. I have been trying to find some manuals online but I really can’t find anything. So is there a trick to doing this or am I missing something. I can’t even see a dipstick or a plug to remove to check fluid. Also what’s the best oil to put back in? Thanks all

[micmac]

Ben,

on the aft side of the transmission you should see 2 plugs the one on the right is higher it is the filler hole. the one on the left the lower one is the level indicator. Remove them but make sure you don't mix them up the higher one is vented if you look close at them. But before you remove the lower one put a drip pan below it I use one of my kids old pencil boxes.

Now you have a few options on draining the fluid

1 lift the front of the machine with a jack or winch. I drive my machine partially up my trailer ramp.

2 use a suction pump to get the rest out. the cheap manual ones from any auto parts store works.


on level ground I put in 1 tube of GM limited slip friction modifier then fill the rest of automatic transmission fluid until it comes out the bottom hole. it should be a little less than 1 quart.

good luck

Mike

[BenDawg]

Thanks Mike. Im off !! What do you guys change it every 50 hours or so ?

[jpswift1]

Thanks Mike. Im off !! What do you guys change it every 50 hours or so ?

I change mine once a year. It all depends on how frequent you drive it. Add about 3-4 ounces of anti slip differential fluid to make the T-20 operate nice and smooth without any band chattering issues.

[porcupine73]

Hi. Yes I use an 8pt double square 9/16" socket from sears to get at my t-20 drain and fill plugs. This is on a '99 max IV; I cannot see the plugs, I have to reach down in there and feel for them.

It seems the t-20 likes a highly friction modified ATF? Interesting since I have experienced it works better with the modifier, even though the manual specifies type F or type A. Type F is an old ford spec that has no friction modifiers.

[Mike]

I just changed the fluid in the Max IV this weekend. The plastic bag trick that I learned from the guys here on the site worked great. One plastic bag and NO spills! I was actually able to raise it up a little further once I crawled back in the bobcat. Ended up getting the whole quart out! I was surprised.

[porcupine73]

Hm plastic bag...didnt' think of that! I will try that next time. I have been using a gallon milk jug cut down to a couple inches, slipped into the bottom of the machine to catch the outflow. I suspect my t-20 has suffered abuse

[johnschwab]

Porcupine and Mike- I am not sure if this will work on a MaxIV, but on my II I installed a valve (gas shut-off type) in place of my lower plug, put a hose barb and length of rubber hose long enough to reach out one of the body tub drain holes. To change my T20 oil now I just lift the front of the machine, put a pan under the hose ,open the valve and go do something else for awhile. Leave the valve and hose in the machine, tie the hose off to something so it doesn't get tangled up. This sure simplifies a procedure that used to be a pain. I find that I change my fluid more often now that it is easier, another plus.

[liflod]

The gas valve idea works great on my Max IV. It's a bit tricky to get the hose to run out of the drain hole, but I can get it close enough to work.

[porcupine73]

Hm that's pretty clever I think I will do that. Do you know off hand what thread the drain plug hole is? I assume it is probably 1/2" NPT.

[liflod]

Correct 1/2 NPT