Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Max IV mods

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Max IV mods

    Here are some mods I made on my Max IV.

    1st. Front push bar / winch mount. The bar is mounted under the body seem and bolted to the factory roll cage angle through the body seam. I used another piece of angle on the front body seam to mount the rear of the winch. I used another piece of angle on the front to make up the difference in height of the push bar and the angle on the body seam.

    2nd. Block off grate under front of front seat to keep things from sliding from the rear floor to the front floor. Keeps cooler in place under front seat and keeps dead soldiers from rolling forward.

    3rd. Under seat removable storage box. Full size of the seat frame ,10" deep. It hangs by the lips of the box. To remove, just lift out. Provides easy access to the battery, chain adjusters and seat bolts.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Very nice functional mods without waste or unnecessary weight. The divider and box should be factory.

    Comment


    • #3
      I've been working the heater for the Max. I have it mounted and somewhat wired. It does blow a good amount of air to the front of the machine and the way the air comes to the front, it seems to blow evenly across the whole front floor area. The blower is a 4" unit from the local boat supply for $20. The current draw is 4.5 A. I think it is rated at 270 CFM. With the blower and the new engine cover, I should have some heat. I will try it this weekend. I plan on adding a piece of duct to collect the heat from the front cylinder. Once the weather gets better, I will paint the engine cover. It's insulated to keep the heat and noise inside the engine compartment.
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #4
        Looking good...."dead soldiers", I have now added to my vocabulary, that's great!
        Hammers should have warning labels.

        Comment


        • #5
          cool .i'll have to rember that when i get mine robbie .
          1999 max 2 18 b&s 22 tires custom . new max iv 23 k 26 i/n tires brown . ht cable promark winch . new toy 1972 attex st400 400ccjlo and she will be bad . ( the frog ) if it don't float with out you getting wet . don't bring it ! R.I.P sage rogers 4 11 09 . you can't fix stuped !!!!! raceone 3 .)

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by liflod View Post
            I've been working the heater for the Max. I have it mounted and somewhat wired. It does blow a good amount of air to the front of the machine and the way the air comes to the front, it seems to blow evenly across the whole front floor area. The blower is a 4" unit from the local boat supply for $20. The current draw is 4.5 A. I think it is rated at 270 CFM. With the blower and the new engine cover, I should have some heat. I will try it this weekend. I plan on adding a piece of duct to collect the heat from the front cylinder. Once the weather gets better, I will paint the engine cover. It's insulated to keep the heat and noise inside the engine compartment.
            Well, How did the heater work?

            Whipper

            Comment


            • #7
              The heater worked very well this weekend. I went out for 30 minute ride. I have a windshield and a roof. I could feel heat on my feet during my ride and cold feel heat on my face when I stopped. Usually there is no feeling of heat what so ever when riding a Max IV, but now there is. I have about $30 invested and its one of the best mods I've done. Even on the cool summer nights, I'm sure I'll turn on the heat for some warmth. I added a small piece of duct to the blower to get some more heat from the front cylinder.

              I am working on some side windows to keep the heat in a little better. I don't like the cold and now I just extended my riding season a few more months !

              Comment


              • #8
                liflod. Please post some pics of the non slosh, gimbal suspended beer chest.
                Just kidding
                Acta non verba

                Comment


                • #9
                  Here's my governor mods. I finally figured it out. I have very light throttle pressure with governor control up to 3/4 throttle and then I have ungoverned throttle above 3/4. I moved the connection point on the bell crank out about 1/2 inch. The screw in the top plate is where it connected originally. This gives me more leverage and makes the throttle easy to move.

                  I routed a piece of cable through the governor spring. One side has the ball on it so it doesn't pull through and the other side is adjustable. It uses the same holes as the spring. Now, once the spring stretches so far, the cable takes control and gives me another 500-1000 RPM.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    On my Max IV, I can "floor it" with the hand throttle lever, but the throttle on the engine doesn't feel like it's completely open. I'd love to get a little more travel/distance in that throttle cable, for a little more speed from the engine. If I understand you correctly, that's what you've managed to do here, right? I'd like to understand this governor tweak a little better. Are you able to post more photos?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Those are about the best pictures I can get with the muffler on the machine.

                      When you pull the throttle lever, it pulls on the governor spring to pull the governor to increase throttle. The spring can only pull so much tension.

                      To overcome this, I installed a small piece of bicycle cable exactly where the governor spring mounts. One end of the cable has a ball end on it so it won't pull through the hole and the other has an adjustable end to set the length of the cable. So ,now, when I give it throttle, the governor spring will only stretch to the length of the cable. I have the cable long enough that it doesn't really do anything until the throttle lever is pulled 3/4 of its travel. The first picture shows where the cable comes out of the spring and through the munting hole. The adjustable cable stop sets the cable length. In the second picture, you can just barely see the cable passing through the governor spring.

                      I also added a piece of angle to the governor's bell crank to make the throttle easier to pull to reduce hand fatigue on long rides. If you look at the second picture, you can see where the throttle cable attaches. If you look just to the left of the cable end clamp, you can see a phillips head screw. This is where the cable attached to originally. I moved it out 1/2 inch. You can see the aluminum angle is used to move the attach point farther from the pivot. Major difference in throttle pressure. I'll see if I can get a better picture.
                      Last edited by liflod; 01-17-2008, 08:25 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        the back seat on my max is screwed in from the bottom, how did you make this so you can access the tool box? are you just leaving it loose?

                        ok i just went back and looked at the pics closer, i see it is hinged to the box, my max has some bars that run across back there, did you take yours out to put the seat in like that?

                        how much did you have to modify to get that box in there like that, i was thinking on mine there nothing over the chains and stuff there???? i thought that was all open under my seat, so did you put a floor in and then the box on top? this is the back seat right? maybe your max is different, mine is an 03

                        maybe i am just confused, lol !
                        Last edited by Mike; 01-21-2008, 07:12 PM. Reason: merged 3 posts

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          max

                          on my max I tweaked the spring a little tighter to give it more rpm on your heater did you get any fumes in the passenger compartment?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            My machine is a 1999. They change the design shortly after mine was made. They pushed the rear seat back a few inches, so you may have some clearance problems. Just remove the seat bottom and start making a cardboard pattern of the box that will just fit between the seat frame rails. Even if you can only make it 5 inches deep, its more dry storage than you have now. I used regular door hinges bolted to a piece of angle that bolts to the seat frame. Gravity holds the seat in place.

                            No fumes in the front. The exhaust doesn't leak.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by liflod View Post
                              I've been working the heater for the Max. I have it mounted and somewhat wired. It does blow a good amount of air to the front of the machine and the way the air comes to the front, it seems to blow evenly across the whole front floor area.

                              The heater is a great mod! Did you use a full ~6 feet of ducting to travel the full distance through the green shell to the front of your Max? Or did you just use a few inches of ducting, tucked in far enough to get the airflow moving the right direction, then let the air flow openly through the hollow spaces until it hits the front beneath the dashboard?

                              If you did use ~6 feet of ducting, how did you get it in there? Did you have to remove the upper shell from the lower tub, or do you know a good trick that doesn't require dismantling your Max?

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X