Max IV top

[hdble]

I went to the gallery and took a look at your top, it looks great.
You and your mom did a nice job

[Mike]

That top looks great!

[getwilde]

I used my sister's electronic Kenmore sewing machine to sew a new top and sides for my MaxIV with roll-bar. Initially, I tried using my wife's Simplicity Pro-- but I spent most of my time rethreading the needle and clearing thread jams. As a pattern, I used the old, cracked, torn cover that it came with. I do still have basic measurements on paper but I don't see any way that they could be used to recreate another cover. Now I'm wishing I would have transferred the entire pattern to craft paper or something.

It turned out to be a MUCH larger job than I'd expected... I probably spent ~20 hours sewing. Then again, it was the first time I'd sewn anything in my life (and maybe the last). Materials cost ~$120.

I've attached a photo taken with my cell-phone. I'll try to get some better ones.

A few tips that might help others:
1. Make sure to use snaps that are aluminum or otherwise rust-proof. We didn't... and they're already starting to show brown spots. I'll probably replace them this spring.
2. Boat/marine/awning supply store was a good place to get #10 zipper, clear vinyl, and heavy canvas. Zipper was approx $1/ft.
3. We wanted camo-pattern canvas, though, and found that at a outdoor products store. We bought Cordura with a shiny waterproofing on the backside. Approx $18/yard. It's remained waterproof for 3 months now. I'm surprised how much it grows and shrinks. It sags a bit when it gets wet. It gets really tight when it warms up/dries out. I'm not sure if there's a material that's better for this. But it's been great as far as keeping the water out.
4. In colder climates, use thinner vinyl for windows, to prevent cracking. We're here in the Rocky's, and I used .016". Look for UV-stabilized vinyl. $15/yard.
5. We found heavy thread at a local Apholstry supply shop. Thick, black, 5000ft or something. I didn't use anywhere near that much, but it's the smallest roll they sold. $23
6. When sewing, be sure to use a longer thread length for attaching the vinyl. If the threads are too small, you've effective "perforated" your vinyl, and made it weak along the seam, and it might tear when stressed.
7. When sewing the zipper to the vinyl, make marks on both, every few inches, to keep them lined up during sewing. I found that the vinyl REALLY streched under the sewing foot, so if I hadn't made those marks prior, I would have ended up with several extra inches of vinyl extending beyond the end of the zipper.
8. I used a "blind hemming foot" on the sewing machine. It had a little extension off the side that I could use as a guide to keep my seams straight with the folds of canvas.

[Mike]

Those are some great tips. Thanks for taking the time to write them out. I will probably try to sew one up one of these days for my Max II. Have you had any trouble with that material and tree limbs?

[getwilde]

I used my sister's electronic Kenmore sewing machine to sew a new top and sides for my MaxIV with roll-bar.

I'm back. Six years later, and I'm needing to do some repairs. The canvas has held up well. So have the zippers. The clear vinyl? Not so much. The vinyl on the "driver's side" door -- which is the door we use twice daily in the winter -- has cracked/broken in a few places -- probably from flexing in cold weather. The clear vinyl on the rear window has discolored/cracked -- probably from being exposed to more extreme temps near the motor. So I'll probably be borrowing my sister's sewing machine again in the next few weeks before snow starts falling.

OR... preferably... I can find a better solution. Are there "door kits" available for Max IVs? It would be nice to not deal with the zippers, snaps, constantly-flexing vinyl, etc. I see this photo from the gallery; any idea who manufactures it? Alternatively, has anyone attempted to make their own doors? Maybe bend aluminum conduit or weld together lightweight frames, sew/stretch fabric and vinyl over the top, and somehow attach to the roll cage with some sort of hinges?

Also, has anyone attempted a plexiglass rear window? Or a glass rear window? I was surprised how much louder the motor sounded as soon as the rear vinyl started to develop cracks and holes! Our kids ride in that back seat; I'd like to isolate them from the noise as much as possible.

Thanks in advance!

[getwilde]

Also, has anyone attempted a plexiglass rear window? Or a glass rear window? I was surprised how much louder the motor sounded as soon as the rear vinyl started to develop cracks and holes! Our kids ride in that back seat; I'd like to isolate them from the noise as much as possible.

Here I am answering my own question. I found a 2'x4' sheet of 1/4" plexiglass through the local classifieds for dirt-cheap. I traced the shape of the rear rollbar onto it, cut it with a jigsaw, and sanded the edges with a rasp. Along the sides and top, I used a rotozip to cut 7 evenly-spaced "slits", through which fed straps of industrial velcro to attach the plexiglass to the rollbar. It worked fine but felt a little loose. So I ended up running a bead of clear silicone around the entire edge, where the plexiglass contacted the rollbar. That part is not beautiful, but the top and side edges are all covered by the fabric cover anyway, so it didn't need to be. I've had it on there for a couple of months and it's worked out great so far.

[Stoneyridgeboy]

Getwilde,

Ok. I know this is an old thread, but I had an idea for what you could put on the roll bar to help with the looseness and vibration of the plexiglass. You can get it in a foam (like a swimming pool noodle) or the more flexible foam rubber like this ( Shop Frost King 3/4-in x 6-ft Rubber Plumbing Tubular Pipe Insulation at Lowes.com ) The rubber has an adhesive backing, so you could put two together and wrap the entire pipe. Then attach the plexiglass however you want. The stuff is pretty durable, and will last outside for years. My dad was a HVAC guy, so we always had this stuff and found unique uses for it.