Fine choice of conduit Bridget.Whipper has gone a long way to produce an outstanding machine.I couldn't understand him taking shortcuts with the wiring when he is so thorough in everything he does.I see so many other AATVs on this site with exposed wiring laying inches away from moving chains and sprockets and thought,no not this machine.You have renewed my opinion that Whipper is what we call over here "A Jack Of All Trades"
Certainly sounds like there up to the job.Must admit my failures were from leaving the wheel back at the last tree I passed but I was using them in place of a ball joint for steering.I've never seen anyone use heim joints as suspension components.The wiring is your pictures you posted.It looks like insulation tape bundling up the wires,all the wires are exposed{you can see the colors of the wires}They may be in the body but can still get damaged and that damage can be avoided by shielding the cables,that's the point I tried to make.And if this isn't necessary,why do auto makers adopt this practice?
I have not been able to break Whipper's suspension kit (OK, there have been a few torn CV boots) but I've managed to knock the wind out of myself trying.
Seriously though, as far as I know, out of the four machines that have been running the last year and a half, I know of only one heim joint failure. Not bad considering there are 18 on each machine.
Sorry whipper,don't like your wiring.Exposed wires get broke real easy.I'd be double insulating.Shielding around the harness as per cars and motor bikes.Takes a lot longer but far more reliable.Also,on your control arms,are those eye bolts {might be wrong name} tapped into the arms and are the arms alloy?I ask this because I have snapped a few of those eye bolts and they always shear clean with the tapped thread.If the arms are alloy and the eye bolts are hardened steel,in a couple of months the dissimilar metal corrosion that will form on the thread works better than any stud lock.You'll be drilling that out.I might be right off track with this one but it certainly looks like that's what you've done in the pictures.An easy solution is to not thread the holes and put a nut on the back.This way "when" it snaps the broken stud can be removed from the back and the eye bolt changed in the field.Again sorry.I really don't like commenting on such fine workmanshipother than praise.
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