looking for a tear-down manual for a 2000 Max2

[swaampratt]

Heyall,

Anybody got a 2000 Max II shop manual for sale? my rig has the splined axels and I need to replace one. All I can find is smooth axel info. I am very mechanical but these things got me baffeled.

Swaampratt

[swaampratt]

still no can do

Still trying to figure out how to pull a splined axel out of the 2000 max2

I figured out the eccentric bearing locks but cannot get the spocked or brake rotor free.

The sprocket and rotor has a little play so I know it is not siezed to the axel and the set screws came right out. Do I heat it and beat it? The outer bearing does seemed rusted to the axel but I believe I can work on that once the axel is out. cant slide the axel out if the dang sprocket and rotor is on there or can I ? ANY TIPS or do I break out the torches?

Swaampratt

[thebuggyman1]

Is your outer bearing unbolted? Inner bearing holding the axle?

[Eldon]

I'm in that right now on a 2003.I have found that with the sprockets and brake discs fastened to the axle with the allen set screws that the set screw scores the spline just enough to impede the splined sprockets and discs from sliding freely.That is why you can feel a little play but then the spline fetches up on that burr.I found the inner locking collar where the set screw hit to be the worst.In a few cases I had to take a small fine file to file that burr as it has to slide out through everything.It will come but some will take perseverance.

[swaampratt]

vote for axel removal procedure.

Hey Buggyman, Well I believe the outer bearing is siezed to the axel. That should not impede the axel from pulling out because I have the three nuts off the clam shells. So I would have to guess that the inner bearing is holding the axel in. Once that is freed up I have to deal with the siezed sprocket and rotor .

I have to believe what Eldon is telling me in that all the set screws have made burrs on the axel, preventing slide out.

I think I have three choices here:

1. drill out the threads of the set screw sockets and slightly into the axel enough to remove the burs . Re-tap for over sized set screws later.

2. concoct a slide hammer and connect to the wheele hub, Hope the inner frame can withstand impact from the rotor and sprocket slamming into it.

3. drill clear through the axel at rotor and sprocket screw holes -Removing the burs and and install roll pins on reassembly.


.
Im leaning toward #1 your input would be appreciated.

swaampratt

[gus marrone]

My machine had 2 set screws in each whole, one to set the axle and the other in the same hole to keep the muck out. Also make sure the bolt is removed from the axle on the inner frame side / bearing.Good luck

[Model Citizen]

I've seen this happen on occasion. (Yes, What's his Name has had axles that were buggers to get out.) Eldon is right about the burr from the set screws. But what usually works best is the slide hammer approach when they are that difficult. Gotta do what you gotta do.

Bridget

[George]

I did #2 along with heating the sprocket collar beforehand.

It took about a day an axle to get them all out. The axles were just about a year old too.

I sprayed them with chain wax when I put them back together to cut down on the surface rust (which I considered the culprit in my situation). Hopefully next time they'll come out easier.

[hydromike]

Just grab a BFH and a propane torch and start hammering it out with the sprocket and brake rotor still "attached" or stuck on the splined axle. There's no delicate procedure at this point.

Be persistant. It stinks, but it's a necessary evil of the hobby. You'll get it.

~m

[thebuggyman1]

Last weekend I helped jimleadfoot tear down his 95 maxII....the left rear sprocket was siezed to the axle (round axle, no splines). We tried heat (red hot, acetylene torch,dangerous for tub) it still wouldn't pop free. I ended up cutting the tube with a die grinder and driving a chisel in the slot to spread it. I figured a sprocket was cheaper than the axle? Plus I had a spare. I hope you dont have to do that. If you use any kind of heat make sure you put a heat shield between the axle and tub.

[swaampratt]

Well it looks like method #2 a BF(S)H.

This was my first time posting and im absolutly tickeled with the experiance ! I geuess I'll hang on to this tub after all.

let you know how it goes.

Thank yall

swaampratt

[swfleur]

Hey swaamp rat - did you get your axles at Mardens ?

Maybe bobbly d bob could get those buggers off for you

Good luck and dont give up -

I'll bet you can beat it off -

[swaampratt]

Hey Lamont, You spelled "Swaampratt" wrong. Its one word and two t's -you big dummy.

I fabricated a bitchin slide hammer last night.

swaampratt

[brushcutter]

swaampratt, if you have access to a good drill set try this

Determine what size/thread your setscrew is.
using the correct drill for that thread size, drill into the spline
place blocks of wood between the frame and sprocket
knock axle out
drill sizes are as follows
1/4-20 nc #7 drill .201" 1/4-28 nf #3 drill .213"

5/16-18 nc F drill .257" 5/16-24 nf I drill .272"

3/8-16 nc 5/16 drill .3125" 3/8-24 nf Q drill .332"

After removing the setscrews you can use the hole as a guide while you drill. Hold your drill steady and you won't damage the existing threads. Drill only far enough to relieve the displaced metal(give it a place to move to).
I think this should work for you. Only use heat as the last resort.

[MOOSE1963]

This might help

I have a have a Max II Drive Train Service and Repair and a all-terrain Vehicle Parts manual. That I purchased when I started to repair my Max II and also have a owners manual for the max II. My machine is a 1995 but I don't think there is any thing much diffrent from year to year other than the splined axels and it covrs them.