windshield install

[SixGunNick]

Hey can someone tell me what the factory used to install your windshield on a maxII I bought one but don't know if I should use rivets,bolts or screws?thanks,
Nick

[JimLeadfoot]

I have only had my Max II for a few weeks & mine has rivets. One rivet has fallen out but the rest are fine...

I would try to make it removable if possible...it would be nice not to have the windshield at times.

[thebuggyman1]

How about rivets with the internal threads?
Rivet Nuts and Threaded Inserts, avk nuts, ribbed L rivets nuts, ribbed K rivet nuts, half hex rivet nut, flat head rivet nuts - Jay-cee Sales & Rivet Inc.

[Eldon]

Mine is riveted as well and I have had a couple of them come loose.I drilled them out and replaced them with #8 stainless bolts with self locking nuts.The windshield on a Max II folds down and indeed you will fold it down on hot days.With the windshield up it is quite hot when swimming as you aren't really going fast enough to disperse engine heat like on land so the fold down feature is really nice.

[SixGunNick]

Thanks guys for your replies I may just use bolts to install it so I can remove it if needed

[thebuggyman1]

Thanks guys for your replies I may just use bolts to install it so I can remove it if needed

That was kindof the point in using the threaded rivets. It would give you a pemanently mounted "nut" fixed to the body. No more having to reach up behind the dash to get a nut on your mounting bolts. McMaster-carr has several types of "rivet nuts" I'd look at the "rubber insulated rivet nuts" or the "screwdriver installed rivet nuts"
McMaster-Carr

[Eldon]

Never heard tell of them buggyman but I'll tell you they sound superb.It is a real pain getting the nuts started from under the dash especially if you planned on frequent removals.

[husabergler]

Even more of a pain, when the nut serts spin in the plastic and they will. The theory is good but the actuality of it is a lot of trouble and larger holes in your tub than you need. If you would like to remove wind shield and have nuts stay in place I would recommend making sheet metal tabs drilling a hole in it and tack weld a nut to it then rivet it to the inside of the tub with 1/8 rivets behind the pre-determined mounting holes for your windshield.

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers, Ryan

[famvburg]

My 2 cents on rivnuts as well. Airplanes use them, & most of them are better designs than auto parts & hardware store variaties from what I've seen, but they're a good idea when they work right, but they don't in the long run. The biggest drawback, IMHO, is the bigger holes required for installation. A rivnut for a 3/16" / #10 screw/bolt takes a 3/8" hole, IIRC. Also, as mentioned, when they start to spin, it's a real pain to get pliers or something to hold them. If you can get to the back side to use a nut, I would, & that's what I do on airplanes as well. There's also an option, but a bit harder to install. It's called a nutplate & has 2 ears on it for rivets. They're more expensive & definitely won't spin. For flat surfaces, like the edge of sheet metal or a flange, is a Tinnerman nut, or U-nut in hardware stores, which is avalable in sheet metal & machine threads.

[vanmeterj1]

Well as long as we are throwing in 2 cents... I like riv-nuts on anything small where metal is concerned and there is not alot of impact, but... you break one of thoes loose and you will regret the day you ever heard of riv-nuts. If you add in the larger than needed holes, the cost and that they require in some cases special tools to apply them (the better ones do anyway) it can be an uphill climb.

Despite some drawbacks, Riv-nuts are a good way to go for metal to sheet metal applications, belive it or not, they are the "go to" product in Defense applications in most military equipment because they hold up great to vibration. One of the many important tests that make up a good list called MIL-Standard

Now here is where you get the extra 2 cents from me on this one, I want to mention the four Pronged T-nut...(Stafast Fasteners - T-Nuts Also, available at most local hardware stores) I put these in my attex back when it had a broken factory engine cover / hood hinge to hold it down. I drilled a smaller than needed hole and put the t-nuts on the ends of the bolts I was going to use with them. I heated them with a plastic welder and used the bolt to "Set" the Prongs in the plastic and flush the flange. Once they were cooled I bent the prongs over underneath. I set them against the underside of the plastic with a punch and an insert hammer. I did put some 3-in-1 on the nuts when I pulled them out the first time but after that i had a solid way of getting into the hood area quickly without having a bunch of bungee cords floping around. I think this was an overall easy to apply solution and IMHO a very good application for the plastic.