has anyone used Sprocket repair kits

[luke_rhodes2001]

has anyone used Sprocket repair kits form www.richardsrelics.com i was wondering if they are any good

and does anyone know where you can buy the Washers besides www.richardsrelics.com?

[racerone3]

I make my own. any steel supplier can get you a stick of 3/4 od, 3/8 id round stock. cut it into 1/4" lengths, bolt them in place, then weld to the sprocket tubes. you can also buy a length of 3/4 od, and have a machinist gun drill it to whatever id you need. the homemade ones aren't "cupped" but that actually gives a small gap for the weld to penetrate.

[amphibious drew]

I have never used the sproket kit, but I would say get a hold of recretive industries in buffalo ny. They are the manufacturer and a simple search for it on here will yield you many posts from jpswift with a link to their website and a phone number. I would not trust a repair kit for sprokets myself. Just buy new. Btw, I'm sure jpswift will chime in and include the link here within a few hours.

[brushcutter]

I've never used them either, I just weld up the holes when they get wallowed out, and re-drill them. Weld one side, insert axle to use as guide, drill. Repeat for other side. But as R13 says they don't look like they would be all that hard to build from round stock.

[racerone3]

I fix the sprocket tube and weld the "repair kits" in place. the sprocket tube is only about 1/8" thick. adding the thick washers gives the bolt a lot more material to push against and makes it a lot harder for them to wallow out again. you basically triple the thickness of the sprocket tube by adding them

[brushcutter]

That's weird, mine are somewhere around 5/16" thick(don't remember exactly). But you are right R13, it definitely helps having more bolt-to-sleeve surface to work with, and it is kind of a pita to weld them like I do, get the sleeves too hot and the welds will fall in, and that's a bad thing.

[racerone3]

That's weird, mine are somewhere around 5/16" thick(don't remember exactly). But you are right R13, it definitely helps having more bolt-to-sleeve surface to work with, and it is kind of a pita to weld them like I do, get the sleeves too hot and the welds will fall in, and that's a bad thing.

I guess the thickness would depend on the machine... I was thinking Attex when I wrote that... the ones in the Hustler are a bit thicker. I haven't run into that issue with the wife's Max yet. for the attex sprocket tubes, I have a piece of 1" aluminum solid round stock. Put it in place as a backer for the weld, and it can't colapse on it's self

[brushcutter]

Right, I've seen the welder at work use copper also, but never thought of it at home, I usually just take my time and don't have too much trouble. I think the next time I have to do it I'm just gonna build some of the repair "washers" and weld them in place. Some of the holes are really close to the sprocket, so those could be built from 1", then ground so they could be welded to the sprocket on that side, do you think that would be necessary? Or is that overkill?

[racerone3]

I typically build them from whatever round stock i have laying around. I don't think I've ever gone as big as 1" but it should work ok. the Hustler sprockets are really close to the holes too. on some I had to grind a flat in the side of the washer, and also relieve the backside to clear the weld that holds the sprocket to the tube

[brushcutter]

I typically build them from whatever round stock i have laying around. I don't think I've ever gone as big as 1" but it should work ok. the Hustler sprockets are really close to the holes too. on some I had to grind a flat in the side of the washer, and also relieve the backside to clear the weld that holds the sprocket to the tube

YEAH... What you said .

WOW! it's like you pulled the thoughts right out of my head, the forums must be PSYCHIC! (Twilight Zone theme playing in the background...)