Opinions on Max II 14 HP

[drdage]

I am new to the forum but have sure appreciated all the great info. I am going tomorrow to look at a 2006 Max II with a 14 Hp motor. I have some acreage that is divided by a creek. The creek varies in depth from 1 to 4 feet and is about 30 feet wide. There is a bank, but not to steep. The water speed varies significantly with run off and time of year. I am wondering if the 14 horse is an adequate motor for this crossing and general duty? Also is there enough power if I wanted to go with the current for some adventuring? Lastly would $3200 be a good price for this if the hours were low ( claimed to be around 30 but no meter)? The owner claims it is just like new.
Thanks Paul,

[Noel Woods]

Hello:
The condition of the vehicle will determine the value. $3200 would be an excellent buy for a machine in good shape. My 1995 Max2 started out as a similar machine, but has been heavily modified and up engined since then. The 14 HP motor is decent, look in the forum for my 1999 Max2 w/tracks, its got a 14.
I say if the machine looks in good or better condition to get it, the Max2 responds well to upgrades, and if you want more power later on, there are plenty of ways to get it.

[Eldon]

The Adair tracks that your machine is handling with ease is changing all of the previously conceived ideas about the machine.Tracks make the machine and these Adair tracks that swim and run with lower power are very interesting to me.I bought my machine with 32 hours on the meter and it was like new.I think the 14 hp. always had hollow axles but I'm not sure about this.As far as water with current none of the amphibians really like going against a lot of current but there is always a trolling motor option.The price is right for this machine as described but there are other buys out there too if one knows what to look for.I don't think a person can get in the hobby any cheaper than $3200 for any machine like new.

[racerone3]

One really easy upgrade is to swap the carb from a 16 hp. I believe the carb to be the only difference between the 2 engines

[MaxRules]

The 14hp engine is enough power to do what you need. It's not as much fun to drive as the 18hp since the 14hp bogs down on hills, but it still takes you anywhere. The 14hp vehicle is standard with only the hollow axles and standard chains. The 16hp Max II comes with solid splined axles and o-ring chains. That means you get a more durable machine that requires less maintenance. I just want to be sure you know there is a lot more difference between the two vehicles than just two horsepower.

You'll want to verify the year model of the Max you are looking to buy. Most sellers either do not know the real year or they lie about it. A 2006 model will have black powder coated rims since that started in 2005. I think the serial number will be around 19000. You can call the factory to check the year.

Check the condition of the vehicle by looking under the floorboards at the chains and sprockets. A 2006 model with 30 hours should look new, that means very little to no adjustment taken out of the chains, and little to no dirt and rust. Some people let the vehicle sit outside and get weathered and fill with water. Nothing destroys an amphib faster than that.

[drdage]

Thanks for the replies. I went and looked at it this afternoon and it looked pretty good. Looked inside and no signs of corrosion under floor panel. Oil level was good and the engine compartment looked clean. There were a few holes drilled in the engine cover were previous mounting for a gun rack was. The underside was without damage or even scratches. The tires were the 22" upgrades and still had nubs on them. The owner claimed to have had the oil recently changed as well as the transmission fluid while it was being serviced. I rode in with him but didn't drive. It seemed that he had a little difficulty getting it into reverse but otherwise ran and steered well. The serial # was in the 19000 range and it had black wheels. It has been inside except when actually being used.
How big of a deal is the axel and chain issue ? As a casual user should this be a concern for me? Thanks again for your help.

Paul

[racerone3]

you will bend axles under the right condition weather they are solid or hollow. I don't consider it a big deal, but changing/ straightening/ fixing axles seems to be part of my regular maintenance. the chain is no big deal at all. opinions vary on the o-ring versus non o-ring issue. some think that what dirt does get in is held captive inside the chain by the o-rings. some people swear by them. I run good quality non o-ring chain in all of my machines, and chain failures have thus far been the least of my worries

[micmac]

As far as difficulty shifting the machine that is most likely normal. The T-20 can be a bit fickle when shifting. Race is right get a 16 hp carb and magically you now have a 16hp briggs. You can even change the sticker on the air cleaner if that makes you feel better

[thebuggyman1]

It seemed that he had a little difficulty getting it into reverse but otherwise ran and steered well. Paul

Paul, this is a product of the T-20 planetary gear design....no way to syncronize it. Splitting the shifter is fantastic mod, and also helps with getting it into gear. Each side of the T-20 is an independant trans and with the stock shifter you are trying to do both at the same time. Check out this thread http://www.6x6world.com/forums/max-a...how-video.html

[drdage]

How difficult is it do do the carb swap and does anyone have a B and S part # for the 16 hp carb?

Paul

[Eldon]

Any Briggs and Stratten dealer/depot should be able to furnish that info.I know on the larger engines some,maybe all of them used Mikuni carbs.A new one I wouldn't think would be cheap.After hearing Brandon's advice on the solid axles and o-ring chains as well as more power,in my opinion,one might consider looking for just a little bit for the upgraded machine.O-Ring chains and solid axles as well as more power is very nice.Also RI no longer makes the 14 hp. model. That is not to say that it isn't a good buy or a good machine.My experience is that buying one with the upgrades is overall the better buy if you intend to upgrade.That said all of us here I suspect work on a budget.

[drdage]

I think I will wait until a Max with more upgrades is avaiable. It was hard to walk away as the owner offered to throw in a new winch and deliver it to my pole building. He was a great guy and the machine was probable a good deal but the motor and axels as well as chains had me concerned. Thanks again everyone who replied.

Paul

[thebuggyman1]

Where is this at? Maybe another member could take advantage of your find. What color was the top? I'd love to find one that was blue, orange or red (I hate tan LOL).

[Noel Woods]

Too bad you passed on it, a pristine late model machine is not found everyday. Hopefully it will make another forum member a great machine.
My two Max 2's are both base machines, both modified as time and money allowed. While you may find a higher HP, solid axle machine later for a bit more, my philosophy is to never look a gift horse in the mouth. I don't see any issue with the base model chains, if you owned a motorcycle anytime before the last 10 years, even the performance machines had that or lesser grade of chain and performed well with 100+ horse power. I think thebuggyman1 is right, please list a location and or ph# for that seller.

[drdage]

I am now having second thoughts and wished that I had bought this one but the unit is currently sale pending for $3500. Someone else stepped up immeadiately after I told the seller I was unsure and that he should entertain other offers. I did call the factory and the parts guy seemed to think these units should go in the $2500 range. He also stated that there was a problem initially with obtaining replacement parts for the rear drive but that they were now substituting the center drive parts. Anyway I got scared off because of the HP/Axel/chain discussion. Thanks for everyones comments.

Paul