replacing bushings with bearings.

[golpher76]

So I would like to eliminate the bushing and put in a 2 bolt flange bearing like the newer style machines. My question is can I use my hollow axles or do I have to buy newer axles as I plan on buying some solid stock steel tubing to press it into my current axles to strengthen them( I really can't afford to buy new axles right now). Any input on this subject would be appreciated.

[Eldon]

If the outside diameter is the same as the solid axles and by the outer bearing size of HC206-20 I believe it is I don't see any reason you couldn't do this.I believe the inner bearing number is SC206-20.The two bolt flange is weird in that the bearing slides into it sideways then rolls down to lock.RI or a good bearing supplier could probably supply these flanges but I don't have the part number.The bearings were about $10 each.Your challenge will be in mounting the flange in precisely the right place.I would think this would be better than bushings.If the bushings are brass you can probably have them manufactured at a machine shop or RI would have them I would think.

[golpher76]

I was looking at a site that another user on here posted and I saw the 2 bolt flange bearings that they sold ans was hoping they would work. here is the link to the item I am talking about.

UCFL Series 2-Bolt Flange Units 1/2" to 3"-Bearing Outlet.com


I am editing to say that I was going to slide the axle out then slide the bearing onto it and then slide it back into place that way it will be back together and I can hold the flange tight to the frame and mark the holes to drill. It's the only way I can think to get them in the perfect position so that everything is lined up.

[Eldon]

That flange looks very similar and the 206-20 part of the number matches part of the bearing but the way the beaing is illustrated there is a little difference at least in the bearing.The inner bearing has a locking collar which is an eccentric arrangement which is a separate piece from the bearing,the bearing diameter nevertheless would be the same.You would need to know if the bearing itself locks into the flange.You can see an illustration of this in Mike's article of bearing replacement.The price looks right on the flange.It will be a more precise operation to place the flange than just pulling the axle back though as the axle can pivot a bit up/down/left/right in the outer bearing as it will roll a bit in the outer bearing flange arrangement.With the flange tight though maybe it can't swing at all.That said just make sure that the center of the axle with the flange/bearing goes back on the frame in the exact spot it was with the bushing.It's definitely doable and I believe a good project.

[duckhunt81]

My thoughts would be to make a jig with the bolt pattern of the bearings you will use. This jig whould slide over the center support shaft and extend all of the way through the outer bearings. Or maybe some sort of jig that would align the left and right axles would be the way to go. Just my two cents. Anyway I would be interested in knowing your findings, because I have considered the same mod.

[kunzmm137]

I am currently doing this same modification to my max II. I am converting to solid axles. Using the hollow axles set in place to align the bearing flange will work very well as long as the bushing is not worn badly. In order to compensate for the frame rail on the right side of the machine, I welded some angle iron to the frame to mount the flange to (should be visible in the pics). Here are some pics of mine.

[thebuggyman1]

Why the hate for inner bushings? They outlast the outer bearings, and are cheap at $3.50 each (mcmaster carr). The only drawback I can see is the lack of a grease fitting. I solved that problem by installing one. I also think you are wasting your time and money putting the 3/4" solid rod into your hollow axles...It will not add alot of strength.
Axles being solid (one piece solid) are really not ALOT stronger. Most of the strength is from the very outer layer of metal. If you want stronger use a better grade of steel or go to 1 3/8 axles

[golpher76]

I am also working on a project to create my own tracks/tire guides and will be building my own bearing cages and increasing the strength of the frame rails as I am going to add gussets to my bearing cages to increase the strength of them. in my opinion the RI cages that I have seen seem flimsy and prone to breaking and since I am going to build a set of tracks either 14" wide or 20" i haven't decided yet I want my setup to be rock solid. I am going to take pictures of everything as I am building it all so that everyone can get deas from it and provide their own ideas. This will be my first time ever actually fabricating something from scratch so we'll see how it goes. I am also waiting for a quote back from a machine shop in my area for a set of 7 new axles as I currently have the old 3 lug ones with adapters, I asked them about making them out of solid 4130 chromoly as it is supposed to be stronger and much more resistant to bending than normal steel.

[Robinhood02]

the 4130 is really good for this axle use, do you have the older unit with the center pins or the newer unit with the smaller brg on the inside and splined axles ?? if you have the splined axles I would just go to Argo and get their axles they are 1/2" shorter but work really well when changing all 6, then all you get machined is the snap ring groves in the center axles, the Argo Super HD axles retail for about 50 bucks each and it is doubtfull you will make them for less than that, also the Argo has introduced a Super HD outer brg (ea brg kit comes with brg and 4 bolt holder and is about 50 bucks) you may want to check out then you won't need the brg cages at all if you go ahead with the 4130 and these SHD brgs, I have a picture somewhere of this new SHD brg and houseing if you'd like i'll see if i can find it or take new ones,
ahhh i just noticed you have the older axles, 4130 is expensive up here 80 cents per inch and it adds up fast, but the SHD brgs will still work

[golpher76]

Yea, I have a friend at the machine shop so he said he can whip them up for me after hours he already talked to his boss about it and he said it was fine I just have to pay for materials. I was also thinking about upgrading to the 207 series bearings. Robinhood I'd love to see a pic of those bearing housings. I plan on getting some adapters made as well aince I want to build a set of tracks and run them in the winter. I haven't decided on width of track yet though but it will be between 14" and 20" wide, so I just want to make sure that this thing is strong enough to handle the pressure of 20" tracks if I decide to go that large. I planned on buying these holders to bolt to the outside of the bearing cages I am going to build.
UCF Series 4-Bolt Flange Units 1/2" to 3"-Bearing Outlet.com

[Robinhood02]

Here is the pic of the outer brg holder and brg

[golpher76]

Here is my idea for my plow bracket/sideplate/bearing cages for my max. The drawing is not to scale but I made it look somewhat realistic, area's marked in yellow are gussets. Please share suggestions and ideas i am open to all criticism.

[golpher76]

On a further not I am thinking that with this setup I could just do away with the old outer bearings and run with just the new outer bearing. I mean as long as I place a gasket that I cutout of a roll of gasket stock between the plate and the old flange holes and put some silicone on it I believe I would get a nice waterproof seal and it would be stronger than stock. I also need some suggestions on ways to cutout the holes that I need to feed the axles through my plate as I do not have a plasma cutter. I am in the market for one they are just quite expensive, although I may be able to borrow one from a good friend so who knows I was just looking for other options just in case I can't get one. Any suggestions on thickness of materials would be appreciated as well. For the back plate I was thinking 1/4" or 3/8" and for the bearing extensions I was thinking 4" square stock at 3/8" or 4" round stock for less resistance in mud and snow.

[Robinhood02]

now that i see exactly what you are building ,you will want to keep the inside outer brgs to prevent your frame from twisting under the load of the axle weight so far out on the axle, but you could also drill a pipe thred hole on your extensions and fill half full of oil, it would help your brgs last longer

[golpher76]

I see what you are saying robinhood. I'll have to either keep them or beef up the frame so It doesn't tweek, I am going to be ripping it apart this weekend now that I finally have a free one and do some inspecting. If I can find a way to beef up the frame instead I'll go that route if not I'll just keep those outer bearings there.