I realized that I needed new outer bearings and new bushings as I don't think they have been changed in a long time. I replaced the worst one this weekend and realized that the axle has grooving in it. I also realized that almost all of the sprockets including jackshafts and sprockets on the t-20 are worn very badly due to chain misalignment by the previous owner. I need to replace all of this and was wondering what the cheapest route would be. Should I take the plunge and upgrade to all new splined shafts and sprockets or stick with the old round hollow design and just buy new sprockets for them. I just need some suggestions from guys who have already done this. I was also thinking about going to a smaller sprocket on the t-20 for more low end power and less speed. All opinions/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
cheapest/strongest sprockets and axles
Collapse
X
-
You have several options. You can try posting a wanted ad here in the classified section of the site and just see if anyone happens to have everything you are looking for or at least part of it to help keep your costs down. You could try to find a parts machine and strip it down for the sprockets, jackshafts and axles. Another option is to have a machine shop make you some splined axles and then you can change your sprockets to dial in the torque to what you want. Maybe try PM'ing member Whipper-ag here on the site and see if he will make you some.
If you start buying new from the factory or a dealer, it is going to get expensive quick. If I were in your position, I would be looking for a parts machine. Good luck with everything.
-
it would be easier to change to a larger jackshaft sprocket then ripping the trani apart to get the output shafts out,
First off though, what size of motor is in your toy
and that putty steel will fix the groved shaft good enough for the brg to be put on it again, my old 75 with the hollow shafts and pinned sprokets i went and got argo splined shafts and all the sprokets from RI ,it did a real good job but still cost some $1200 after all said and done complete with new brgs and chainsHe who has not cruised the back country in a 6x6 , has not lived life to it's fullest
A Mans level of mechanical education directly corresponds to the level pain suffered while getting it
Comment
-
I agree with Mike. The problem you will probably find on many parts machines is that the items you need the most will be worn as well. I just purchased a sprocket from recreatives today, it was only $22 which surprised me as fairly inexpensive. Its going on my 1995 Max2, which has the 25" Mudbug tires and the 13 tooth output sprocket on the t20. I had thought about switching all of the sprockets out, but after close inspection, I feel I can get away with just replacing the one. This machine has four hollow axels, but I must say they are impressive looking for what they are. The steel looks to be 1/4" thick and I see no stress or damage to them. I replaced two others with solids years ago, but could have gotten away with hollow replacements. Just for comparison, many 3/4 to 1 ton trucks have driveshafts the are less thick than my hollow axels on the Max2.
The sprockets on this machine are all original. Not bad for a 16 year old machine that has seen its share of service. Proper chain tension, and chain lube has led to the long sprocket life. It goes to say that a little preventive maintenance goes a long way. I've seen some 2006 Max 2's with shot sprockets because the machine wasn't cared for. Work your chain adjusters and see how much you can work with what you have before diving into an overhaul.
Comment
-
When I put new sprockets on my Hustler, I just had a local machine shop turn the old ones off the tubes and weld new sprockets in their place. I'm sure any well equipped machine shop could also make you a new axle if necessary.1983 Hustler 945-HK 627cc Vanguard
1982 GMC K-10 Sierra Classic Suburban 6.2 Diesel
2010 Chevy Silverado 1500
1974 Honda ATC 70
1986 Honda ATC 250ES Big Red
There is no Z in Diesel!!
Comment
-
First off thank you guys for all the suggestions. One of the sprockets on my t-20 the teeth look like shark fins. I just really started looking over the sprockets/chains this weekend and that is when i discovered all the issues. My chain tensioners also need to be replaced because the plastic material is nearly worn off. I currently have a 14hp briggs in it out of a cub cadet but will be buying a new carb to bump it up to 16 hp. I am going to call around and see whet i can get a machine shop to do. I'll see if I can source some new sprockets for a fair price and i'll take robinhoods suggestion and just repair the shaft with some of that putty steel. None of my hjollow axles are bent but the bolt holes are all rounded I'll get a machine shop to repair those as well. A parts machine would be great to find but liek you said a lot of the parts that I would need would be worn already probably. it's a 1978 big max and nothing has ever been replaced in it so I just have a lot of work to do but i'll get it restored eventually.
Comment
-
Has anyone ever considered using chevrolet axle shafts out of older vehicles with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern like in mid 80's s-10's and 2 wheel drive 1/2 ton pickups. The axles are heat treated 1.5" shafts and range from 28" to 33" in length. I was thinking I could just cut them to length and drill the hole for my sprockets. I would have to upgrade to 208-24 bearings which are very strong and are readily available as relubricable and triple sealed. I was thinking with these I could then get some new 2" sprocket tubing that had a 1.5" center bore then I'd have a 1/2" thick sprocket tube and I could weld the new 2" center 26 tooth sprockets on there. My estimated cost per axle for this is around 70 bucks per axle including the new sprockets, bearings inside and out, sprocket tube, and axle. I think that is a cheap price considering how strong this setup will be. The Gross weight per set of those axles on a vehicle is almost 5000 lbs and that is well under what they are capable of maintaining. I am also curious if I would actually still need bearing cages as I planned on plating the frame rails with a 1/4" plate of steel to beef them up and with the new heavier axles and bearings I think it would remove the need for the bearing cages all together. What do you guys think about this setup?
P.S. I can get the axle shafts for 12 dollars a piece at a u pull it place not far from me and they have nearly 50 vehicles that I can pick from to get axles.
Comment
-
What kind of axles do Ford Pintos have? They have the same bolt pattern as Honda 4 wheelers and that would get you lots of wheel choices. But those axles might not be large enough. Just a thought.1983 Hustler 945-HK 627cc Vanguard
1982 GMC K-10 Sierra Classic Suburban 6.2 Diesel
2010 Chevy Silverado 1500
1974 Honda ATC 70
1986 Honda ATC 250ES Big Red
There is no Z in Diesel!!
Comment
-
you're right guy they are 4.75 I have been doing some searching and found a lot of things that have 5x4.5" and they all seem to have a 1.5" axle and range between 28 and 33". I am just going to start doing some hunting at the upullit yard and once I get 6 i'll decide on what length to cut them all. Once I get the ball rolling I'll show everyone the finished product.
Comment
Comment