My dad picked up what I think is a mid to late '90's max II about a year and a half ago but since he got it he said it seems to chatter real bad when turning. When you stop and make a square turn from a standstill, it seems to go very smoothly (especially when you raise the rpm a little). It chatters when you wnat to make a slow turn...like in an area that you dont want to tear up. I already replaced a trashed outer bearing and straightened a slighly bent frame tube for the left side jackshaft where it looks like the previous owner got a seatbelt stuck in the sprocket. I know that the chains were pretty stiff so i oiled them up pretty good. It almost sounds like the chain is jumping when we make a short sweeping turn. I took another look tonight and it looks like there is about an inch of up/down play on the left side drive chain. Is there some way to see if the chain is jumping or should I look at something else? It seems to run down the path pretty good other than the turning thing. The max is a sorta ugly pinkish color with a 14 or 16hp vanguard and round headlights...also it has #60 chain and # 50 chains...any clue as to what year this might be??
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Max II seemslike chain is jumping when making turns
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hello there, i have a max buffalo truck. I was getting, what sounds like a clicking, out of the T-20. I was told to change the oil in the trany with with type F auto trans fluid and 4 to 8 ounces of limited slip diff. additive. the other thing i found one of axles was moving a little and the chains were touching and make a nasty noise. i hope this helps a little any way. the other thing i was told by Recreatives Industries, Inc. is to change the T-20 fluid every 50 hours of use.
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I only notice the noise when turning, not when going forward or reverse. Since the first post I have switched out most of the axle bearings and tightened the chains. I also replaced the # 60 chains due to a frozen link or two. I am struggling with the idea of having to remove the engine to replace the left rear axle bearings....is there a secret to replacing those bearings w/o removing th engine??
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OK, I got it...I thought the engine mounts were nuts/bolts but when I finally thought to myself that the motor had to come out either way, I found that the mounts were held in place with just bolts from the top. the engine is out of the way and I will get the bearings replaced. Has anyone overcome the problem of trying to get grease into that rear inner bearing? The fitting is obviously covered by the engine. Is the grease fitting thread a standard pipe size? Could i run a samll pipe from the bearing? Maybe I should just put a sealed bearing in it? Thanks for all your ideas guys...I'll let you know how things work out after I get all of the bearings in and run it out for a test.
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Regarding your original post, My 1995 Max2 was recently doing a similar thing, At first I thought that it was a defective chain adjuter, which did show indications of a latent defect. I changed it out, but still had the same issue. I pulled the sprocket, examined it, and determined that three of the teeth had worn considerably. I got a $13 replacement sprocket from Recreatives, and that fixed the problem. The problem was that due to the sprocket being low and partially hidden by the frame, it was impossible to tell there was an issue until I actually pulled it out. Now the machine is back to 100%
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Thanks Noel,
I checked out the adjusters and the sprockets while replacing bearings...they all appear fine. I just got finished buying my wife a new turkey baster after I used it to suck the old fluid from the tranny. After I add new fluid, I'm gonna put the engine back in and take it for the maiden voyage....I'll let you guys know how it goes.
Oh yeah, almost forgot...I'm gonna add type F fluid, does it really matter what kind of additive I use? I thought I read on one of the posts that chevy additive works best. Would Advance auto carry that or do I need to go to a dealer??
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this is the additive I use and it has worked well for me. any auto parts store should have it. Trans-X® Posi-Trac® Limited Slip Gear Oil Additive by K & W Chemical - part# 402508
you can buy a remote grease fitting to make the LR easier to get to. basically a hose with male 1/4-28 threads on one end and a grease fitting on the other. you can also set it up with a distribution block so that you have a hose running to each of the inner bearings and just plug your grease gun into one fitting to do all 6 Service Tools and Accessories | HVAC&R Service Tools | Supco Grease Fitting Kit | B461492 - GlobalIndustrial.comA well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
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Thanks old iron,
I just called advance auto and that is the exact additive that they have. I'm going over to pick up a tube this morning. I put everything back together last night and filled with just under 1 qt of type F trans fluid. Went for a quick spin and noticed that there was still some chatter when trying to make a sweeping turn and I had a little chatter in reverse. Square turns are perfect and the chatter overall seems to be much less. I'm hoping the additive is the finishing touch so I dont have to tear into the trans. This forum is AWESOME and you guys have all been a big help. I'll re-post after I get the additive and give it another run. I feel like I might end up diving into the trans but still holding out hope.
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Just realize that band chatter is a normal thing for the T20. It is not hurting a thing and it's not a reason to tear down the transmission as long as it is operating properly. While the additive will help to quieten it down, you don't have to have it.
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Ok, I put the additive in and it did quiet the chatter considerably. If some chatter is normal then we should be fine. I hit the trails for about an hour and all seemed good, so I loaded it up and delivered it to my dad, who was very happy with the repairs. He and I took it out for another long ride and it was a blast!
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