You can even call the guys at Buffalo Bearing. They deal with many 6x6World members and they're really helpful with any questions you might have (716) 874-1720. I usually just give the outer race of my seized and stuck bearing a good hard couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer. If you have any issues, bring it up to my place, I'm just south of Buffalo and I'd be happy to help.
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Originally posted by jpswift1 View PostYou can even call the guys at Buffalo Bearing. They deal with many 6x6World members and they're really helpful with any questions you might have (716) 874-1720. I usually just give the outer race of my seized and stuck bearing a good hard couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer. If you have any issues, bring it up to my place, I'm just south of Buffalo and I'd be happy to help.
This is the stuff I picked up. It's "marine grade" so hopefully it works better than regular. I sure slapped enough of it on my bearings!
McMaster-Carr
Part # 10045k23
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Time & materials
I just did a similar task to a new-to-me Max IV. It was well worth the time and money to take the frame out, de-rustify it, weld a few spots, paint it and then replace all the bearings/collars etc. When I bought it, it appeared that it had never really been maintained- chains were shot and had been run out of alignment. This also caused damaging wear to a sprocket and tensioners. The bearings appeared good (and they ended up being good when I removed them), but I figured I'd replace them while I was refurbishing the whole unit. There was about 3 inches of grease, leaves, twigs, shotgun shells, electrical butt connectors, an old spark plug and various other items in the tub. I highly recommend (my local dealer suggested this) that you add "L" brackets to the rear part of the frame to strengthen the t20 mount. There are photos below that show the brackets and where I had to weld some cracks (the brackets should prevent future cracking).
12 bearings w/ collars, entire new set of chains, 1 rear sprocket, 1 new/used axle (to replace one that was bent when I bought it), 2 new solid (not pressed) tensioners, and 6 new zerk-fitted inner bearing carriers totaled about $1200. My time is priceless with new twins, but I managed to get it done in time for the Alaska caribou and moose seasons!!
I already mentioned this on another thread but "Mike" is a helluva help on this kinda stuff and the video is truly priceless. I'm going to try to add some photos here to show what I did.
A buddy and I are also building a new aluminum roll cage/enclosure to replace the tube steel one that came on it. I will try to post some photos of that as well in the future.
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Originally posted by team222badbrad View PostLast quote from the factory which I got a month or so ago was $45 a pop x 12...
I just bought some from BearingsOn.com: Pillow Blocks, 2-Bolt, 3-Bolt, 4-Bolt Flanges, Radial Ball Bearings, Insert Bearings
OUTER HC207-20 1-1/4 Insert Bearing Large OD HC207-20 1-1/4" Insert Bearing Large OD
INNER 1 1/16" Insert Bearings UC206-17 1 1/16" Insert Bearings UC206-17
They are a perfect fit, but I don't know if they are sealed as well as stock bearings.
You also need to pull the pins off the outerrace with pliers.
What year is your machine?
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Originally posted by jpswift1 View PostYou can even call the guys at Buffalo Bearing. They deal with many 6x6World members and they're really helpful with any questions you might have (716) 874-1720. I usually just give the outer race of my seized and stuck bearing a good hard couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer. If you have any issues, bring it up to my place, I'm just south of Buffalo and I'd be happy to help.
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Originally posted by team222badbrad View PostYou will want a nice big jar of anti-seize too!
This is the stuff I picked up. It's "marine grade" so hopefully it works better than regular. I sure slapped enough of it on my bearings!
McMaster-Carr
Part # 10045k23
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Originally posted by coldone907 View PostI just did a similar task to a new-to-me Max IV. It was well worth the time and money to take the frame out, de-rustify it, weld a few spots, paint it and then replace all the bearings/collars etc. When I bought it, it appeared that it had never really been maintained- chains were shot and had been run out of alignment. This also caused damaging wear to a sprocket and tensioners. The bearings appeared good (and they ended up being good when I removed them), but I figured I'd replace them while I was refurbishing the whole unit. There was about 3 inches of grease, leaves, twigs, shotgun shells, electrical butt connectors, an old spark plug and various other items in the tub. I highly recommend (my local dealer suggested this) that you add "L" brackets to the rear part of the frame to strengthen the t20 mount. There are photos below that show the brackets and where I had to weld some cracks (the brackets should prevent future cracking).
12 bearings w/ collars, entire new set of chains, 1 rear sprocket, 1 new/used axle (to replace one that was bent when I bought it), 2 new solid (not pressed) tensioners, and 6 new zerk-fitted inner bearing carriers totaled about $1200. My time is priceless with new twins, but I managed to get it done in time for the Alaska caribou and moose seasons!!
I already mentioned this on another thread but "Mike" is a helluva help on this kinda stuff and the video is truly priceless. I'm going to try to add some photos here to show what I did.
A buddy and I are also building a new aluminum roll cage/enclosure to replace the tube steel one that came on it. I will try to post some photos of that as well in the future.
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[ATTACH]7261[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]7264[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]7263[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]7265[/ATTACH]
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When doing things such as removing circlips,blowing chips from holes and removing bearing races via shattering,I have found it handy to drape a shop towel over the work just before the final "operation". It will absorb a good amount of energy from things like shrapnel,etc. and prevent them from becoming UFO's.
Joe.sigpic
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Originally posted by mpmitri View PostLast quote from the factory which I got a month or so ago was $45 a pop x 12...
I just bought some from BearingsOn.com: Pillow Blocks, 2-Bolt, 3-Bolt, 4-Bolt Flanges, Radial Ball Bearings, Insert Bearings
OUTER HC207-20 1-1/4 Insert Bearing Large OD HC207-20 1-1/4" Insert Bearing Large OD
INNER 1 1/16" Insert Bearings UC206-17 1 1/16" Insert Bearings UC206-17
They are a perfect fit, but I don't know if they are sealed as well as stock bearings.
You also need to pull the pins off the outerrace with pliers.
What year is your machine?
Yeah $45 is expensive...Thanks for that info! I believe my machine is 1981.
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Originally posted by JoeMeg View PostWhen doing things such as removing circlips,blowing chips from holes and removing bearing races via shattering,I have found it handy to drape a shop towel over the work just before the final "operation". It will absorb a good amount of energy from things like shrapnel,etc. and prevent them from becoming UFO's.
Joe.
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Originally posted by Dan67 View PostCall the guys at Buffalo Bearings, you'll be glad you did! The bearings for my hustler where $8 each for the inner and $12 each for the outer. They have allot more then just bearings.
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Originally posted by mpmitri View PostI will definitely call Buffalo Bearings. Do they have a storefront or are all their orders placed over the phone?A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
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Originally posted by racerone3 View Postyes they do. here is their website with the address Buffalo Bearings Inc.
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