MaxII output sprocket problem.

[pkarnezis]

I've got a 94 MaxII I have been rebuilding as it sat for quite a bit with water in the tub. Fashioned myself some new chain tensioners and got me some new chains. I cleaned up the t20 got all the fluid changed and added the Lucas anti slip.

Was hand cranking the T-20 to make sure the shifters were correctly engaging when I noticed what appears to be a crack in the rith side output sprocket that runs from the bottom of one of the sprockey valleys straight through to the output shaft.

I did a search and wasn't able to find any reference to such a thing being purposely cut into the sprocket (It looks like it is almost that way from the factory but doesn't make any sense?). Why would this thing crack at this point? If it is supposed to be there what actually keeps the sprocket from stripping the shaft or vice versa.

I tried to get some pictures uploaded but having trouble with the card reader. Can anyone tell me if this is normal? If not can anyone give me the specs for the sprocket as I can pick one up locally from Motion Industries as they are close to where I work.

Lastly, IF this thing is bad and I do source another is there anything preventing me from pressing on the new one but leaving the T-20 complete and NOT doing any damage or do I have to tear apart the whole darn thing just to press on the new sprocket? Thanks for the help.

[Mike]

You shouldn't have a crack in the sprocket. You can look at the T20 rebuild Article and see several pictures of the sprockets through the several pages of the article. That will also show you what is involved in getting the entire shaft out. For a replacement, just count the teeth on the sprocket and get one that has the same number.

[pkarnezis]

Where is the best place to get myself an output sprocket. It is a 15 tooth 1.75in i.d. piece. Motion Industries does not carry these. Thought they would. Hard to believe there is nothing else holding this thing on / just a press fit.

[Don]

Recreatives is the only place I know to buy the drive sprockets, but Richard Clark may sell them as well. I tried going directly to the manufacturer, but they won't sell to the public (at least not to me). They do press onto the drive spool, but it's a good idea to tack weld them once they're in place. Sometimes they will work loose and ruin the spool after they've been pressed on & off once. If the spool is still on the T20, make sure you don't get the seal too hot.

Good luck.

[msafi65]

The t-20 output sprockets can be replaced with the transmission assembeled and well supported in a press. It can take up to 6 tons to install a new sprocket. I cut the old ones in two places with a dremel until they crack, try not to hit the shaft. The factory sprockets are pressed on with a spacer to keep them straight when the shaft is out. Look closley at yours, if there is a space between the sprocket and the small sholder that is where the new one should be. I put 1 3/4" external snapring behind mine when doing one that is assembeled. This gives the .060 space and keeps the sprocket square with the shaft. I heat my sprockets with LP toarch also. Don is right about spot welding them. If you get more than 4 tons to install you shouldnt have to weld them. good luck hope some of this helps out .

[pkarnezis]

Can I rest the assembled trans on the opposing output shaft or would you recommend something else? I don't want to mess up the case. The cracked output sprocket does not appear to be spinning or misaligned in any way. I've yet to get the whole thing fully assembled and runing yet and sort of wanted to get it fully functional before messing with the sprocket situation.

[msafi65]

I have always blocked the case at the bolt holes or over the studs. The four corners of the case are very heavy internaly. usually have to shim a bit to get contact on all points.