have a new max 2

[jakeesspoo]

My friend and I just bought a max II to use for ice fishing. It seems to run ok, but was making some noise. Previous owner said I would need to get a new chain tensioner as one was not working. I saw the "improved" chain tensioners on the 6x6 parts sight and also a kit that was supposed to make shifting easier on the trasmission. What are your thoughts on these upgrades, and why aren't the prices listed on that website for the parts? Is the GM additive for the transmission fluid readily available anywhere like NAPA will they know what Im talking about if I ask for it? I do not know if I should just replace all the chains or not. I would hate to be out on the lake (frozen) and have a chain break but I suppose this could also happen with a new chain though not as likely. Are chains breaking a common problem in these machines? Should I just replace all the chains? On my atv's whenever I changed a chain I also did the sprockets but this would be a whole lot of sprockets and a whole lot of work here not to mention money. Just your thoughts on what I should immediately do other than change fluids and get that tensioner replaced, purchase a spare belt, etc. And also what is the deal with the upgraded "red spring" for the clutch... thanks, for all replies in advance, Ive only had this thing a few days and love the way it looks in the barn, I can already see a few more of them in their in the future.

[thebuggyman1]

Congrats on your new purchase...hope it brings lots of fun and smiles to your faces. The upgraded roller chain tensioners work very well, but richards gets LOTS of $$$ for his. I think it's $180/set of 4??? I made my own for about $20.IMG_1963.jpgIMG_1962.jpgIMG_1964.jpg
You can try cleaning the stock tensioners, sometimes it's just gunk in the ratchet mechanism.
The shift kits are just a spring in the rods. The t-20 is really 2 transmissions in one case and with the stock shifter you are trying to shift both sides at once. The spring allows one side to slip in before the other. I would suggest this mod instead. http://www.6x6world.com/forums/conte...t-shifter.html
The t-20 is not a syncronized trans, so it will never "easily" slip into gear, but with some practice (and a little machine rocking) you will get good at it.
I think Richard does not post prices for the same reason most used car dealers don't...sticker shock!
Limited slip diff additive should be available from any auto parts store, but it won't be GMs brand, only meets the same specs. I don't use it personally, I use synthetic ATF instead, but it's an opinion thing. The biggest thing to remember is "fresh atf", change it often. The factory recomends every 50 hrs of use.
You shouldn't have to worry about breaking chains as long as you buy good quality. Avoid the TSC stuff it is very weak. Diamond is excellent chain. Diamond Chain | Sales Sheets If your machine is an early model it may have the #40 chain instead of the #50.....obviously the #50 is much stronger.
The red spring for the driven clutch is much stiffer than the stock spring. This takes more power from the engine before it upshifts. Basically it keeps you in a lower gear ratio longer.
Good luck with it.

[jakeesspoo]

thanks so much for the reply. Did you do the split shift modification to your max as well? And did it shift easier. I think I could handle getting to know how to shift the Max but Im thinking that on the ice my friends will want to borrow it to run around and check other fisherman, run to the truck,etc. and it will be easier to have them shift like this. With the mod do you still have to pull back on the steering arms let them spring back up while shifting to forward from neutral? It would seem hard to do pulling back the "steering arms" and then having to try to shift two levers down now instead of just one, or do you not even really do the spring forward shifting arms and moving gear selector down at the same time? I have not yet removed the chain tensioners on the max I have but I thought that they were supposed to be self adjusting? Am I wrong? The new ones or the modified ones like I asked about are set wherever you set them and they do not move correct? I like the idea of making your own. Let me see if I have it correct, you took some uni strut and welded it into the original tensioner, the spring part (cant remember what its called) is inside the unistrut allowing you to move the tensioner up and down when the bolt is not tightened. You then set the tension on your chain with setup installed and tighten down the new bolt that has the nylon "roller" on it. What is the round nylon stock that you used or where did you get it? Whats its original purpose? I would definately rather spend a hour or two making my own tensioners than spending 180.00 You guys on this forum are great, I watched mikes videos last night and learned a lot as well on the axles... I guess i just have to figure out what I want to do with the shifter as in split it or go with the spring mod, does that spring mod help at all though? And do you actually shift the way it tells you to in the owners manual ? Sorry for all the questions. I got new transmission fluid and I found the "GM" equivelant of the tranny additive at NAPA...

[jakeesspoo]

My max is a 1998 model... What size chain does this run and is all the chain in the drives the same size? I cannot seem to find this information.

[thebuggyman1]

jakeesspoo: I actually own the maxII in the "how to video", it looks a little different now with a green top, single seat and split shift levers beside the seat.
I also own another maxII with bench seat and split shift levers between your legs.....that shifter sucks. Too hard to reach.
Out on the ice I can't imagine why you would need reverse...unless you get stuck in a snowbank. lol
I've never used one of Richards shifters, so I can only guess how it would compare. As for shifting move one lever towards the gear you want, hold mild pressure there, and rock in your seat, it will pop in gear. Repeat for the other side. Sometimes a little throttle and moving the sticks helps too. You will get the hang of it pretty quick.
The plastic roller material is UHMW PE from McMaster-Carr actually I think it all came from them.
The original chain tensioners are ratchet type. Move them and they are supposed to stay where put. I bet they work real well when new. When old, worn, and full of gunk, they slip (read suck). Loose every time.
Your 1998 maxII should have #50 chain from trans to jackshaft, #60 from jackshaft to center axle, and #50 between the axles.

[jakeesspoo]

I just now ordered the "plastic" stock from McMaster...I found a previous thread on how to make these tensioners as well... How long is the 1/2" bolt used in the fabrication or how long should the plastic roller be. I would think it wouldnt be more than two inches in fact that would probally be too long wouldn't it? I am also going to get all new chain to be on the safe side...my father has access to some from a friend, I just want to make sure its of good quality and the correct size. Didn't I see that max of yours with the single seat on craigslist recently?