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Split shifter for a Max IV ??

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  • #31
    Thanks, MudBug3.

    So, that begs the question, if no one sells one, is it something each person has to make on their own? Okay, maybe a few more uestions . . . Is there a sticky or some instructions for how to do one? Is there a common way to do it, or many different ways? Is there any reason you might want to have a split shift AND and easy shift together?

    It sounds like something we could ALL benefit from having, so you'd think there would be someone out there doing the modification or making a kit.

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    • #32
      Jack Rabbit

      I asked one time why some one could'nt offer a split shift kit for the Max II and Max IV. I was told that its very easy to fabricate a split shifter for a Max II, but a whole lot more work involved to fabricate a split shifter for a Max IV. I was also told that the shifting fabrication work is not identical on each Max II and Max IV, so for this reason you could'nt make a kit to sell. The easy shift springs are also part of my split shifter.

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      • #33
        Something that I'm not seeing in this thread: If you are considering doing this mod to your machine, you MUST also brace the t20! I don't think the transmission's internal components "notice" a lot more stress from the "split" itself, but without bracing, the counter torquing force from the chains pulling in different directions will rip a T20 right out of its cradle.

        The Max IV s/s is not as hard of a mod to do as it is for a hustler if you have a few decent tools, Welder, metal saw of some description, pipe bender(not absolutely necessary, but gives a cleaner finished product) to name a few. If you happen to have a left hand tap of the 3/8"nf variety you can build double action adjusters, just buy the rod ends accordingly- 1 left and 1 rt. The simplest way to build it is to just mirror the factory set-up, after taking accurate measurements, otherwise you will do a lot of re-fitting to check correct fit and alignment.
        DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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        • #34
          Originally posted by brushcutter View Post
          Something that I'm not seeing in this thread: If you are considering doing this mod to your machine, you MUST also brace the t20! I don't think the transmission's internal components "notice" a lot more stress from the "split" itself, but without bracing, the counter torquing force from the chains pulling in different directions will rip a T20 right out of its cradle.

          The Max IV s/s is not as hard of a mod to do as it is for a hustler if you have a few decent tools, Welder, metal saw of some description, pipe bender(not absolutely necessary, but gives a cleaner finished product) to name a few. If you happen to have a left hand tap of the 3/8"nf variety you can build double action adjusters, just buy the rod ends accordingly- 1 left and 1 rt. The simplest way to build it is to just mirror the factory set-up, after taking accurate measurements, otherwise you will do a lot of re-fitting to check correct fit and alignment.
          This is why I choose not to bother with the split shift.I only need it to shift into gear ! So i bought richard's relics shift kit.Expensive but I no longer have any trouble shifting and I do not grind gears anymore.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by mudbug3 View Post
            Jack Rabbit

            I asked one time why some one could'nt offer a split shift kit for the Max II and Max IV. I was told that its very easy to fabricate a split shifter for a Max II, but a whole lot more work involved to fabricate a split shifter for a Max IV. I was also told that the shifting fabrication work is not identical on each Max II and Max IV, so for this reason you could'nt make a kit to sell. The easy shift springs are also part of my split shifter.
            Well I guess the only way to know would be if a bunch of II and IV owners took a defined set of measurements and compared them. Just going from memory here, but there can't be a bunch of difference, otherwise RI wouldn't be able to mass produce their single shifters, would they? Think about it, if there is so much variance in length, say, from the shift lever to the rear crossover that one couldn't mass produce split shifters, then wouldn't the the same be true of single shifters? Just something to think about...
            DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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            • #36
              On the MaxII's, when R.I. went to the "O-ring" chain they had to shift the trans about 1/2" to the side, but the rest of the measurements stayed the same. Mass producing split shifters would not be a problem.....the question is: can any money be made at it? The low production numbers would mean they would all have to be built one at a time by hand.

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              • #37
                Jim, do you think the kit could be built to include a split collar to set the side to side difference so each driver could set it for their own machine? I agree, I don't see it as being all that problematic either. Once a group of standardized dimensions were determined, one could build fixtures to hold the various parts for welding. I'm pretty sure the same could be done for the required t20 bracing. What are your thoughts?
                DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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                • #38
                  Still refering to the MaxII, the rod that the handle connects to is standard 1/2" rod......split it in half add a coupling and another handle, and it's done. The cut could remove extra length and the coupling could be made longer to be adjustable.

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                  • #39
                    Sooo... when are you gonna start, maybe you could also sell them to RI, since they don't seem to be able figure out how to build their own.
                    DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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                    • #40
                      Here is the mock up of my Max IV split shift conversion. I ordered a shift handle and rod from RI then cut the tubes to the correct length and inserted a 3/4 bar.
                      On the back I cut the tube and drilled two pieces of flat stock like the original arm then used part of the tube left over from the front as a spacer.

                      In the front I welded the levers to the arms and pined the outer sleeves to the 3/4 inch bar. You will also need to trim your floor pan for the extra lever.

                      In the back I welded my flat stock levers to the original tube.

                      You cannot see it in the picture but there is a 3/4 inch bar inside these tubes also drilled and tapped on each end so you can bolt flat washers to each end to capture the assembly.

                      Keith.
                      Last edited by kghills; 06-24-2012, 04:44 PM.
                      sigpic
                      ADAIR TRACKS, WITHOUT 'EM YOUR JUST SPINNING YOUR WHEELS
                      REMEMBER KIDS, THE FIRST "A" in AATV STANDS FOR AMPHIBIOUS

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                      • #41
                        Couple of pictures of the finished split shift conversion on the Max IV with factory parts for that factory look.


                        Keith.
                        Last edited by kghills; 06-24-2012, 04:45 PM.
                        sigpic
                        ADAIR TRACKS, WITHOUT 'EM YOUR JUST SPINNING YOUR WHEELS
                        REMEMBER KIDS, THE FIRST "A" in AATV STANDS FOR AMPHIBIOUS

                        Comment

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