How-To Article: Max II Axle and Bearing Replacement

[Mike]

I just posted up a new article. It is a step-by-step how-to on replacing bearings, axles, flanges, and sprockets on a Max II. While it is specific to the Max II, it really applies to a lot of six wheelers.

It's been about 4 months since I took the pictures and I finally got around to posting the article.

Here's the link: Max II Axle and Bearing Replacement

[Beeman]

Nice work Mike! It's awesome you took the time to take pictures of your work!

[micmac]

Nice article Mike very well written and documented

[srg121]

just curious,why are the nuts on the outside,on the outer flange.my sidewinder had them on inside w/ the smooth head of carriage bolt on outside.is something different on the max preventing them from going other way,much cleaner looking and less protrutions for swampy gook to get hung up on?? whipper put nuts on inside on1 1/4 " axle convertion on attex as well

[rdr]

great job mike i anti_sezed mine so they jest slide right out got to love it .

[Mike]

just curious,why are the nuts on the outside,on the outer flange.my sidewinder had them on inside w/ the smooth head of carriage bolt on outside.is something different on the max preventing them from going other way,much cleaner looking and less protrutions for swampy gook to get hung up on?? whipper put nuts on inside on1 1/4 " axle convertion on attex as well

I don't have a reason for you other than the fact that the frame has previsions for the carriage bolts and that's the way they were on mine when I tore it apart. I've seen other Max II's that way as well.

[liflod]

The biggest reason , its a pain in the ass to get the nuts and washer installed onto the bolts in the tub and just as bad taking it apart. The frame holds the carriage bolt from turning.

[srg121]

looks like the outer flange has same square provision to hold carriage bolt.i did have some trouble getting mine out,i actually had to walk over to the tool box for a thin wall socket for the air ratchet to get the top 6 out! and arent the threads gonna corrode from constant exposure to the elements making even harder to remove down the line.there are so many poorly desiened things on mine,makes me wonder what they were thinking when they built it,just couse it came that way dosent mean you cant change it,so many peaple are stuck on "stock" and affraid to make changes and im not talking about the bolt thing,thats more of a cosmetic thing, i just think they look cleaner the other way

[boncrshr]

Good article Mike, you are right, good info for this Hustler driver. When I put mine together I did not use silicone between the two flanges on the external bearing. Maybe this is why I had a few leaks??

I just used the 3m strip caulk between the inner flange and the body.

[jpswift1]

Hey boncrshr, when I separated the bearing flanges off of those Hustler axles that you gave me, I learned that Hustler used a rubber O-ring between their bearing flanges to keep the mud and water out.

[whipper-ag]

That article made me want to go change some axles.

Great Job

Whipper

[boncrshr]

Hey boncrshr, when I separated the bearing flanges off of those Hustler axles that you gave me, I learned that Hustler used a rubber O-ring between their bearing flanges to keep the mud and water out.

Ruh-roh.....I guess I'm going to need a set. Where can you get them?

[Mike]

looks like the outer flange has same square provision to hold carriage bolt.i did have some trouble getting mine out,i actually had to walk over to the tool box for a thin wall socket for the air ratchet to get the top 6 out! and arent the threads gonna corrode from constant exposure to the elements making even harder to remove down the line.there are so many poorly desiened things on mine,makes me wonder what they were thinking when they built it,just couse it came that way dosent mean you cant change it,so many peaple are stuck on "stock" and affraid to make changes and im not talking about the bolt thing,thats more of a cosmetic thing, i just think they look cleaner the other way

After reading your post I remember now...duh! I too thought it would make more sense to go the other way and that's what I tried first. Unfortunately you can't even get a thin walled socket on the top nuts. I was able to get them somewhat tight with a wrench but it was a pain and I wasn't sure that they were tight enough. You can't get in the frame enough to really torque them. After trying one, I quit and put them back to the way they are from the factory.

As for the threads sticking out, I really don't think that it's that big of a deal. You don't see them and they really don't pick anything up. That may make them harder to remove after they have been on there for a while but it's really no different than the lug nuts and the way that they are mounted?

[jpswift1]

Ruh-roh.....I guess I'm going to need a set. Where can you get them?

I'm guessing that any industrial or bearing supply store would have the O rings. They are about 2 1/2" diameter for the Hustler, I would imagine that for smaller bearing Max machines they would be the same, or maybe a just a little larger since they both use the same bearing flanges.

[techfx]

This is a great motivational piece for getting my rear axles finished - so far the hubs are cut and I just ordered new wheel bolts. Also have some new flanges and seals from Richards (after thinking I could find those locally easily). San Diego does not have many tractors hence, not much for tractor supply.

Excellent job Mike, now I feel better about putting it back together. maybe by the end of the decade, I'll switch from (old school) inner bushings to bearings.

Much Thanks,

Mike #239548398459