MAX axle questions

[PlumCrazy]

Looking at MAX's!
In what year did the MAX go to the keyed axles?
Are all their axles 1-1/4"?
Which axle setup is considered the best for a everyday trail type machine, IYHO?
What things should I look for in MAX's?
thanks...ed

[swamp donkey]

I have a 2009 model it has the splined axles in it but I don't no how far back that goes. Iwould try to get one with the splined axles if possible. Make sure it has at least a 16hp Briggs in it. If the chains are worn or a bearing or two has to be replaced that's not a big deal just no what u are getting so u get the price right.

[thebuggyman1]

Splined axles came in around year 2000, but it depends on the model. The older machines were still a 1 1/4" axle with a bolt thru the sprocket tube....much the same as your attex. The argument can be made for the superior quality design of the splined axles......but look at how many older machines are still going with bolted axles....the design did last for 30 yrs, it can't be that bad. If you are looking at MaxII's....come on over here and we'll go for a ride (bring Mike with you too). If you are looking at MaxIV's....Chris Orlando still has his.

[PlumCrazy]

Hey Jim, how are things out in your part of the state?
We got a dusting of snow, but it's all gone now.
Temps have been 30-40° during the day and 20-30° at night.
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I'm either going with a MAX IV or an ARGO, I want a 4 seater and we have three 2 seaters now.
I hear what your saying about the bolt through axles, they work fine.
BUT, the splined axles just have to make axle changes/adjustments easier.
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Whatever I end up with will have tracks on it for winter, I've hung the Attexs up quite a few times on the belly pan due to crusted snow and ice out on the Lake Huron shoreline in front of the house.
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I'm not in any RUSH to buy anything due to my current work schedule, but if a deal comes along I want to have the facts down.
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later...ed

[PlumCrazy]

Hey Thanks for the reply Swamp Donkey.
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We just put 16hp Honda clones in two of the Attex's and although we lost about 15mph the extra torque was our goal.
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What holds the sprockets in place on your axles, collars with set screws?
What is the price of a splined MAX axle?
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later...ed

[msafi65]

The early spline axles from oct 97 to mid 2002?? We're retained by set screws into dimples in the axles. All the new ones have snaprings for retainers. List price on a new axle from RI is about $170. They are made from stress relieved steel similar to heat treated 4140 with a forged flange.

[PlumCrazy]

The early spline axles from oct 97 to mid 2002?? We're retained by set screws into dimples in the axles. All the new ones have snaprings for retainers. List price on a new axle from RI is about $170. They are made from stress relieved steel similar to heat treated 4140 with a forged flange.

170$ Ouch! I'm guessing that the solid 1-1/4" axle without the bolts through the gears/axle, don't bend/break as easy as my 1" axles on the Attex's.
It sounds like I won't be making those Max axles, like I do the Attex's.
Do you know which design axle on the Max is less prone to repair?
I'm leaning towards a MaxIV, but have NOT ruled out ARGO!
thanks...ed

[Model Citizen]

170$ Ouch! I'm guessing that the solid 1-1/4" axle without the bolts through the gears/axle, don't bend/break as easy as my 1" axles on the Attex's.
It sounds like I won't be making those Max axles, like I do the Attex's.
Do you know which design axle on the Max is less prone to repair?
I'm leaning towards a MaxIV, but have NOT ruled out ARGO!
thanks...ed

The 1 1/4" splined axles might have started in '97, but if the machine was the cheapest model offered with the 14 hp (like my machine was.. year 2000) it had the hollow axles.

The Max II & Max IV splined axles offered now are the same mat'rl, they might even be the same length, but not sure if the length of splines are the same.

The hollow & the splined axles are both 1 1/4", so which one is less prone to repair depends on what you hit. If you have the ones with snap rings, you better have good snap ring pliers & set screws can back out, so it's all a matter of what do you want to work with down the road.

There's nothing easier to bend or break than a 1" axle...but you knew that.

Bridget

BIGFOOT NOTE * Even though my Max II is now springered, the inner axles are still the hollowed axles with the bolts that go thru the sprocket tubes & they've been fine. But all the stress is on the outside axles now.

[thebuggyman1]

The hollow & the splined axles are both 1 1/4", so which one is less prone to repair depends on what you hit.

LOL Sounds like words of experience.

"There's nothing easier to bend or break than a 1" axle...but you knew that."
Yeah there is......a 7/8" or 3/4" axle

[lt250rdude]

I have a max IV with the 1 1/4" solid axles with the bolt thats holds the sprocket hub. My axles were wore out where the hubs ride on the axle and the bolt holes were elongated-simple fix. I welded up the holes and redrilled to 7/16" for the bolts, and rolled the axle while welding around the shaft, then stuck the axle in the lathe and took the welds back down to 1 1/4". This would not be easy to do with a splined shaft and I can reuse them over and over again. Cost me apprx 10-15 dollars to fix 4 of them in wire and gas for the welder.

[jshade]

Splined Axles Purchase

I just ordered two sets of Splinted axles, to include the axle, the sprockets, ring, bearing, and flangesfrom RI. I'm going to replace my rear axles with them. I must have caught them in a real good mood because they gave me a petty good price.

But most of the problems I've had with my Max IV (over the last three years) has been with the rear axles, rear sprockets, rear chains and rear bolts (mostly bolts). I noted that my right side needed to be replaced in Oct while at Busco Beach and figured that I might as well go ahead and just fix it right and get it over with.

From what I've read on this site as well as talking to others (including Agro owners) the second best thing I can do is upgrade to Splinted Axles (The first most important thing is to change to Split Shifting - haven't done that yet).

Johney (Durect) Shade

[PlumCrazy]

I just ordered two sets of Splinted axles, to include the axle, the sprockets, ring, bearing, and flangesfrom RI. I'm going to replace my rear axles with them. I must have caught them in a real good mood because they gave me a petty good price.

But most of the problems I've had with my Max IV (over the last three years) has been with the rear axles, rear sprockets, rear chains and rear bolts (mostly bolts). I noted that my right side needed to be replaced in Oct while at Busco Beach and figured that I might as well go ahead and just fix it right and get it over with.

From what I've read on this site as well as talking to others (including Agro owners) the second best thing I can do is upgrade to Splinted Axles (The first most important thing is to change to Split Shifting - haven't done that yet).

Johney (Durect) Shade

May I dare ask what the two sets cost you?

[team222badbrad]

I've got a 2001 max IV. It has the splined axles with setscrews holding the sprockets on.

Let me tell you the setscrews are a pain in my behind.

It's Impossible to remove the setscrews which means they have to be drilled. I tried everything. Heat, PB Blaster, etc. All I ended up with was a twisted or stripped hex wrench. In most cases I was able to remove the outer setscrew, but not the inner one.

This past summer I had to replace some bearings and decided to use split collars to hold the sprockets in place. Working fine so far.

The previous summer I did upgrade one of the rear axles to use the snap rings. I simply used a Dremel with grinding wheel and some handy hand work to make the grooves in the old axle.

[PlumCrazy]

I've got a 2001 max IV. It has the splined axles with setscrews holding the sprockets on.

Let me tell you the setscrews are a pain in my behind.

It's Impossible to remove the setscrews which means they have to be drilled. I tried everything. Heat, PB Blaster, etc. All I ended up with was a twisted or stripped hex wrench. In most cases I was able to remove the outer setscrew, but not the inner one.

This past summer I had to replace some bearings and decided to use split collars to hold the sprockets in place. Working fine so far.

The previous summer I did upgrade one of the rear axles to use the snap rings. I simply used a Dremel with grinding wheel and some handy hand work to make the grooves in the old axle.

So you could put the solid axles on a lathe and put a groove in them, good.
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A lot of times on the floor when we are repairing machinery, we run into the double setscrew issue. Outer setscrew comes out but the inner is really torqued. I call in a welder to put some heat to it and they USUALLY come out. I usually DON'T put them back in. I get a SHCS (socket head cap screw) the correct size, add a jam nut to it, locate the gear/pulley correctly, tighten down the SHCS and then tighten the jam nut tight down to the shaft OD. With the SHCS I get to use a larger hex key and don't have to worry about rounding those small hex keys down. Never had one walk on me.
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I'm also a BIG Never-Seez fan.
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Love those split collars too.
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Good info, thanks.

[team222badbrad]

So you could put the solid axles on a lathe and put a groove in them, good.
.
A lot of times on the floor when we are repairing machinery, we run into the double setscrew issue. Outer setscrew comes out but the inner is really torqued. I call in a welder to put some heat to it and they USUALLY come out. I usually DON'T put them back in. I get a SHCS (socket head cap screw) the correct size, add a jam nut to it, locate the gear/pulley correctly, tighten down the SHCS and then tighten the jam nut tight down to the shaft OD. With the SHCS I get to use a larger hex key and don't have to worry about rounding those small hex keys down. Never had one walk on me.
.
I'm also a BIG Never-Seez fan.
.
Love those split collars too.
.
Good info, thanks.

Yeah you can lathe the snap ring grooves if you got a lathe! Recreative did get me a drawing to machine them, but I found out it was not correct.

I only heated the sprockets up with a torch, but keep in mind you are working around the plastic tub! :-)

This last time I got smart and picked up a brand new 1/4" drill bit from McMaster. Makes a world of difference drilling those headache screws out!

I slopped on marine grade anti-seize from McMaster as well.

Also got the shims and split rings from them too. Shims are needed to space the sprockets apart.

The one picture is of the snap ring on my left rear axle.