Another MaxIV Problem

[Hogneck]

I am stuck again with a perplexing issue. In one of the rear axels below the output for the T-20 spocket is an idler spocket for chain adjustment which is now a new one.Below that is the driven double sprocket with a single hub on solid spline axel. It will not stay in alignment with Idler and T-20.It is riding inward and popping of course .I take it this is why the bearing in Idler crapped out the first time. I can move it back to home with a big pry bar and 2lb hammer. even after set screw is out I still have to hit hard to drive it over. This wil be the third attempt to keep it where is is supposed to be.I am very tempted to bugger a spot weld on her this time for I am about done with the disappointments. My question is....... If all sprockets and chains are in alignment,..what is causing the hub to travel on shaft ? Stupid little 1/4-20 allen set screw won't hold crap. Should be a 5/16'' or larger .

[Hogneck]

Any suggestions before I get back at it because it will be stick welded for the weekend ride I have planned. I hope someone has the answers because I don't.

[Bazooo guy]

Make sure the axle is not out of alignment. You could remove the set screw and drill into the shaft so the set screw locks on the axle or drill it and use a larger set screw or a roll pin.
I would think if it is a splined shaft it will be hardened. I don't think welding it is a good solution.

[Hogneck]

Make sure the axle is not out of alignment. You could remove the set screw and drill into the shaft so the set screw locks on the axle or drill it and use a larger set screw or a roll pin.
I would think if it is a splined shaft it will be hardened. I don't think welding it is a good solution.

I would have to remove motor and T-20 to do any kind of mod like that. Axel is aligned . Bearings are good with no play up or down, in or out. If I could get a drill down in there I would drill a divet in the axel.

[Hogneck]

Thank you Bazoo .

[Bazooo guy]

Cant you remove the axle without pulling the trans?
And drill it outside the tub then install a cup or cone type set screw.

[Hogneck]

i may.I think i will remove set screw and find a grade 8 bolt w/same threads to crank down on first. I would have to remove tracks,wheels ,cages ,bearings,and motor anyway to do what you suggested. Then hope the sprocket comes off the shaft. So a little bugger of a weld to hold in place like a burr should not hurt,cause I can do this without removing anything .if it fails it all comes apart and new sprockets and bearings and maybe shaft will go back in.
Just don,t feel like the long job right now.I have to many hours in it all ready to get it where it is.I just don't want it to stress T-20 bearing being out of alignment. I could careless about the shaft being welded if it will work,the big IF.
I dont know really what to do...just hate to rip and tear again. I have gone all through this thing. Just got my sound system in her tonight so I can have tunes in route. I have to break down the tracks and weld the tub up later on this spring so that would be the time to pull shaft out.Tracks cut through tub in the rear on both sides. Live and Learn.

[thebuggyman1]

The sprocket should want to stay in alignment....something is pulling it out, maybe a bad idler allignment. You could try 2 split collars to hold it in place.

[Hogneck]

The sprocket should want to stay in alignment....something is pulling it out, maybe a bad idler allignment. You could try 2 split collars to hold it in place.

Good idea Buggyman. I will have to see what size the shaft is and get two.Any idea? while I am at work today I could pick some up.Idler is in line good with T20.

[Hogneck]

The sprocket should want to stay in alignment....something is pulling it out, maybe a bad idler allignment. You could try 2 split collars to hold it in place.

That is my major consern is what is pulling it out. I have thought that the sprocket has been riding out ofalignment for so long and the old idler had enough play it the bearing(LOTS) until it crapped out. Wonder if the chain is tweeked? and sprocket worn in that direction on the teeth?Do you think a tack weld on shaft will hold or not?

[Hogneck]

The sprocket should want to stay in alignment....something is pulling it out, maybe a bad idler allignment. You could try 2 split collars to hold it in place.

Just read a post from Plumcrazy. Apparently there is two set screws,outter one and an otherr underneath ,an inner. This may be why I can't keep in place. ??!!

[amphibious drew]

When aligning the chain and sockets. it is best to raise all tires off the ground loosen all set screws and turn the wheels by hand. This should allow all your sprockets to center themselves appropriately. If even one sprocket is off position it could be pulling others out of alignment. If your sprockets are good and your axles are true there should be no reason to walk if you aligned it properly. If it still walks there is something else going on. ie adjuster bad or frame bent.

[George]

I had my T-20 move out of alignment...Jersey identified the problem and fixed it too.

[Bazooo guy]

Two set screws?
If that's the case yes you would need to tighten the inner first on the shaft.
I would pull both set screws and replace them with new ones.

[micmac]

Hogneck,

First off we all have been where you are- things not working out right, ride coming up quickly. Unfortunaly it's always better to do things right, unfortunately that will be a little more work. If you get a Buddy to help you can get down to the T-20 in less than an hour.

With that said you need to check what George suggested, also the output sprocket on the T-20 can slide down the spline away from the case causing alignment issues. This happened with my machine and is why RI recommends a spot weld on the backside to hold it in place. Now onto the axle sprocket assembly- I don't think the setscrews system is that good on holding the assembly. RI changed to milling snap ring grooves on newer machines. I would HIGHLY recommend the split collar option already mentioned. It's easy, cheap, the sprockets wont move and you won't have to pull engine to put them on.

I would strongly discourage you to not weld the sprocket to the axle. Removal of the axle after that would most likely ruin the axle because of the grinding that would be required to get the axle out with the close tolerances on the bearing and sprokets.

Good luck!

Mike