bearing cage stuck on axle

[shorty]

does anyone have a good idea for getting the bearing cage off an axle? I can't budge it. Seems that the outer most bearing (nearest the wheel) is rusted on solid. I cant' get a grinder with cut off wheel into the cage to get to the most rusted part. Space between wheel and outer side of bearing is really tight too...can i heat it and hit it with the Persuador, without damaging the axle?

I was going to remove all the cages as i don't run tracks, but with this much trouble, it might be easier to just buy a set of tracks and at least have a really good time before i have to enjoy this misery again.

[mudNmallards]

I can probably help you with that ( and more importantly ensure it never happens again) because bearing failures and their fixes are about 50% of what I do on the reliability side of my business.
I need you to clarify a few points first because I’m on the other side of the world and cannot physically see what you are looking at and sometimes words can be misleading.
After your other post, I found a Maxx manual on here ( did that so I could visualize the basic construction and arrangement of parts) that was about as clear as mud ( as far as individual part detail because its an assembly sketch) but it helped.
What this unit appears to have is a 4 bolt stamped flange housing with a bearing insert with the shaft secured by one single lock collar. In the bearing world, for anti friction bearings, this configuration is universally known as the lightest duty and shortest life span set up manufactured. ( these bearings are known as “run to fail” because the price to maintain them exceeds the cost to replace)
You say the “cage” is frozen to the shaft. In bearing definitions, the “cage” is an internal component that secures and maintains rolling clearance of the anti friction media. My question is- what are you referring to as the cage? Are you talking about the actual inner race and/or the shaft sleeve? (some of these bearings allow the inner race to slide on the shaft directly and some have an internal sleeve ( usually with a set screw, taper lock or compression leaf system)
It would help if someone could provide the bearing # or manufacturer- then I could tell you anything you needed to know.
Anyhoo, back to your problem.
Bearings very seldom truly “rust” to a shaft. (except in chemical process or furnace conveyor applications- but I doubt you are experiencing those extremes) It’s very hard to get high carbon hardened bearing metal to oxidize to the point where it will chemically bond with another base metal.
Bearing to shaft seizure most commonly is the result of ( single or multiple combinations of below)
1) A shaft that is not fully round or below the ISO bearing fit for the bearing ID. It “beats” or moves around inside the inner race, induces some static electricity and galvanic reaction which combined with moisture will create a mechanical friction bond. ( this creates rust so at first glance it appears to be rusted to a shaft but its not)
2) Contamination- “stuff” gets in the “slip fit” and gets micro pulverized which results in opening the grain structure of both parts and this creates a sandpaper like surface that wedges itself together ( this also can create rust giving a false appearance of rusting together)
3) Bearing fret- this is where a bearing has a “fit” but not a good one and there are voids there where the heat/friction of the bearing motion deforms metals and causes some of the base metals in the steel recipe to sweat( exude) out and bond (another galvanic reaction) to similar metals in the shaft. ( in layman’s terms somewhere between a chemical bond or a soft solder joint)
The normal cure for the above is an acetylene torch with a rosebud hearing the inner race until it releases. (sometimes you may need a press- worst case is to cut the race, all depends on the level of damage) Given the low force on these machines, I doubt anything but the torch would be necessary.
I never recommend beating anything because it can cause further damage to the shaft and some bearings ( due to their hardness) can explode or fragment under impact so it’s a safety issue as well.
That will remove it.
Now it’s a matter of making sure it doesn’t happen again.( but you need to get it off first)

[Bazooo guy]

Acetylene torch and a press always works for me.

[thebuggyman1]

This probably is not the answer you want, but.......I would put the axle in a lathe and remove the weld on the wheel flange. That will allow access to the outer bearing of the "bearing extension cage", and the flange can be rewelded on afterwards
For everyone who doesn't understand, here is a picture of one type of bearing cage used on a max. The bearing on the side of the tub is supplemented by an additional bearing farther out, mounted to this cage.

[hydromike]

Can't you just pull the axle and cut the bearing off? I understand that the bearing is tight on the shaft, but what about the two inner bearings? If you pull the axle, unbolt the outermost bearing flanges (on the "cage") and slide the cage off. That gives you plenty of room to get a torch, a BFH or a grinder in there. I know it's a lot more work to pull the axle, but it seems like it's the direction you might be headed in.