I thought about using them and just stacking them 2 tall. I have plenty of them laying around, but I need 3" to clear the bottom of the motor, and I think stacking will give too much flex.
Well progress continues at a snails pace it seems. I called the company that stocked the metallic flake I was planning on using. I asked about their gelcoat products and priced out almost $500 worth of products to finish the body. I needed more if I were to go that route, but at $500, my wallet said "Find another way." With some research, I found some paint for the upper body that I really like the look of, and the system will only cost me about $100. I will still need to figure out what to use on the lower, but a good black paint that will work should not be hard to find. I got most of the outer body patched the way I want it, and got around to priming it tonight. There are a couple of spots that need a bit more attention, but nothing points it out like that first coat of primer.
A little more progress has been made on the body. I still have a bunch of little imperfections to fix, but with some primer on it, I at least now where to spend my time. I used self etching primer first, and then some filler primer which I ran out of.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Well after a trip to Harbor Freight and Summit Racing, I have what I need to do the finish work to the body. I originally intended on using a gel coat system, but when the pricing for material surpassed $500 and I had not priced anything for the bottom, plans changed. I just used the cheapo Harbor Freight gravity feed gun and some rustoleum for the bottom after the self etching primer. For the top I bought Sublime Metallic Green and a prism clear coat to finish it off for less than $100. I want to cut the axle holes prior to painting the top, but I really wanted to use my new gun and see how the bottom was going to turn out. Well any way, here it is.
hey drew i just ran across this. wish i would have seen it before you dropped off the gas tank. the john deere i had in the garage i just transplated a kubota d662 into. the stub shaft you need is 1 1/8 as you thought. i found one one ebay off of a jacobson mower. the guy was selling the entire engine i saw the stub shaft and emailed him. he took it off and sold it to me for $60 shipped. i will keep an eye out for another one.
Thanks for the look out, I actually have been acquiring many parts lately including what I believe to be is the correct stub shaft. I am hoping to get to Lockport Saturday to see how all my purchases are working out.
Progress is slowly coming along. That's the pic of the left side jack shaft chain tensioner mount. A 4-chain Attex rear tensioner will be bolted to the mount. The right side is going to be a little more complex to engineer as the chain is further from the inside frame rail and much closer to the drive chain and sprockets on that side. I am still scratching my head trying to get the design right. I doubt it will be at ash for the races, and may not even make hatfield McCoy, but when it is done, it will be done right with no shortcuts taken.
Last edited by amphibious drew; 06-08-2013, 08:19 AM.
Reason: My stupid iPhone doesn't attach pics properly
Comment