coot articulation joint

[whistlepig1]

I've been researching coots for awhile now and really can't find any detailed info on the bearing that connects the tubs .From cootworld I learned they can be hard to take apart or put back together and that there are large pipe threads. Just wondering if anyone could post some better information about this joint .Thanks in advance if someone could help. Keep in mind I've never got to see one in person.

[mustangwagz]

Its not a bearing actually, just a really greasy pipe joint...honestly. lol Strait threaded pipe joint. They were welded together at factory during assembly. And yes, you read correctly...tearing apart is easy, but re-assembling is a nightmare from what i read.

[whistlepig1]

Thanks for your reply. From pictures I suspected that they were just threads,but thought I was missing something. It's hard to believe that it would hold up over the long term. Ever hear of or see any problems with the joint failing?

[Noel Woods]

I uploaded a couple of digitals into my gallery, one showing the front articulation point and the other the rear. Also visible is how the driveshaft and the steering linkage goes through the tunnel.

The ones I've seen are 8" pipe welded to the rear body section, in the front there is a male fitting for connection with the front. The fitting is not tightened all the way which allows the front and rear bodies to pivot independently. Grease fittings allow the threads to not seize.
Between the two bodies there is a v shaped piece of metal welded to the rear bull. These look like bump stops on a vehicle. On either side of the front hull between the bodies there is a piece of treated wood bolted to the hull. The bump stops come into contact with the wood and limits the pivot.

I'll load up some more digitals this weekend.

[mustangwagz]

I uploaded a couple of digitals into my gallery, one showing the front articulation point and the other the rear. Also visible is how the driveshaft and the steering linkage goes through the tunnel.

The ones I've seen are 8" pipe welded to the rear body section, in the front there is a male fitting for connection with the front. The fitting is not tightened all the way which allows the front and rear bodies to pivot independently. Grease fittings allow the threads to not seize.
Between the two bodies there is a v shaped piece of metal welded to the rear bull. These look like bump stops on a vehicle. On either side of the front hull between the bodies there is a piece of treated wood bolted to the hull. The bump stops come into contact with the wood and limits the pivot.

I'll load up some more digitals this weekend.

The wood stops your eh? Mine has a piece of angle on front half, just like rear half. 1 in center on front tub, 2 on rear tub at approx 45 degree's? maybe someone added this to mine, or maybe yours is missing noel?

[Noel Woods]

Wagz:
I think you are right. I've seen several other Coots over the years that are set up like mine. I think they all have metal for the limiters. This allows rotation left and right, the wood is like a skid plate to prevent metal on metal contact, mine is treated but when exposed to the elements for many years I could see where metal on wood action would lead to the wood failing. The 45 degree pivot is about right, its a little unsettling the first time you experience it but the thing is planted on the ground and rock stable. While you are setting your machine up, I would go with some hdpe instead of wood, it should last the life of the machine.

[mustangwagz]

Noel,

if i do end up keeping it, ill put in the fake plastic wood. i got an abundance of it. lol made a roof for my sideXside with it. lol pretty sweet stuff!

[whistlepig1]

Thanks guys for giving the best info on the net on this subject. Noel ,taking time to post pics is greatly appreciated.

[Noel Woods]

Thank you Whistlepig1, I'll help any way I can.