1971 KID 8x8 Build -- Newbie

[s_winkler04]

Thanks for viewing my thread. I joined 6x6 world not very long ago and consider myself a newbie/rookie to the AATV world. I picked up this KID 8x8 from a farmer who used it back in the day to pull irrigation pipe across his corn fields. The machine starts runs and drives great for the condition it is in and for sitting the last 10 years. It has the Wisconsin V4 engine option.

Through the years of sitting in the garage, it is showing its age with a rust hole in the bottom floor plan. This build will consist stripping it all the way down to fix the rust hole (most likely build a new bottom pan) and replace all necessary components. Looking at the running gear will probably replace majority of the chains, sprockets, bearings, and seals. The tires also need replaced as I believe they are the originals. Also plan on painting the KID either army green or army desert tan, not sure yet but the yellow has to go!

I have the original operators manual, parts manual, and brochure from the machine when bought out of Harper, KS. I have the serial number, it was wrote down in the manual, will work on posting it later. Also have the original steel tracks but not sure how to tell what condition they are in. I plan on getting a set of decent tires back on the KID and using the tracks, just looks mean when they are on!

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[s_winkler04]

I have started tearing the KID down. I have broken off more bolts on this machine then I have in my lifetime of wrenching, got to love rust and small bolts! My plan is to split the body, separate the top from the bottom. Reading other posts, it is much easier to remove the top body first if planning to remove the engine & assembly (which are my plans). I have started removing items which I can tell are bolted to the top portion of the body (fuel pump, steering cables, ignition switch, roll bar, rear PTO, muffler, and tensioner blocks from the triple chain for clearance

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[Mike]

This should be a fun project. I look forward to watching your progress.

[KID8x8]

Looks good! I assume that is a fuel tank directly behind operators seat? These are very easy machines to work on I got mine couple months back and have replaced some bearings, head gaskets and other misc things. Wisconsin engines were and still are used on many different machines. Very reliable and easy to get parts for. Good luck and looking forward to updates!

Also where are you located?

[s_winkler04]

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Thanks for the feedback. Yes that is a aluminum fuel tank behind the driver seat, something the farmer installed. He also relocated the battery and put a single stat alternator on the live PTO. I haven't got that far to order parts yet but you mentioned you replaced bearing; where did you go to get them? I assume any TSC has them. Any help on where to go for parts will def save me some time.

Serial # of the kid is TKGA-01073

Had time to work on the kid over the holidays. Was able to get the upper body separated from the lower body. Did not have to take off the triple chain retention blocks for clearance. Job was a little easier than I thought. Next step is to get the engine and vickers pump pulled then work on drivetrain.

[s_winkler04]

Located in south central Kansas

[MyNewKID]

I bought a KID back in Sept and have been working on it as well. I'm amazed you were able to take off the top half of the hull without removing the jackstands. I have been cleaning out the hull which has 40 years of grime built up, removing oil soaked dirt and pine needles etc by the fist full. I am replacing chains, flattened a warped head, replace the original (1969) air filter, and more. I am just starting to track down a filter for the hydraulics - you wouldn't have gotten to looking for one yet, have you?
You say you have the operators manual? I downloaded 5 manual files from this website, but would love to get ahold of a operators manual as well. Any chance I could get a pdf copy???????
Bob

[MyNewKID]

I also replaced the coil, points and condenser with new electronic ignition parts from Pertronics, a worthwhile mod for you to consider.

[s_winkler04]

image-4.jpgimage-5.jpgimage-8.jpgimage-7.jpgimage-2.jpgGot some more work done on the KID. Since the upper body was removed, my next step was to pull the engine and power train assembly. With my luck, the 4 bolts that held the engine in place the nuts turned on the backside when I put my impact on them. So I had to use the cutting torch and cut them out. From there, it was smooth sailing with the cherry pickers. There was at least an inch of mud, grease, and dirty debris in the hull. As you can see from the pictures, the rust hole only seems to be affecting the front portion of the hull and not much metal work needs to be done past the first cross member.

I then took the rolling chassis to the car wash and cleaned everything out of there. My wife wasn't happy with me afterwards. grease and mud everyone. But the KID was finally clean! I then started to soak all of the drive axle castle nuts with some penetrating oil to try and loosen things up. I had to drill out 5 of 8 carter keys to remove the castle nut. So far, 4 of 8 drive axle have been removed with no trouble. The remaining 4 are either seized on the bearing or on the sprocket shaft. I need to spend some more time with the torch and heat up the bearings to see if I can get some movement. Really hoping I do no have to cut the sprockets to remove the shafts.

I have reviewed a lot of threads on KID 8x8, and I have yet to find any part numbers related to bearings. Here you go!

SKF: 454207-104 (drive shaft bearing)
Seal: CR15204 (drive shaft seal)

Bearing are available and a for a good bearing, is around $22. That is a quality sealed bearing. Timken bearing is Fafnir RA104RRB. Hope this helps everybody. Will post more when I get the remaining 4 shafts out and get some metal work done!

[Nubs]

Nice..

[Andyman]

Nice..

X2

[millerperf]

hi all ive almost finished my kid restore this thing is a really good machine!a new 8x8 is really expensive I think I would like this better then a 28,000.00 machine its built to last!!

[MyNewKID]

Great post, and it looks like you are making great progress. I appreciate the info on the bearings. My Kid is running and I used it to plow for the first time over New Years break, but I have a funny clicking noise while moving down hill in a left turn. I'm thinking it may be bearings but have not isolated the problem. I see you left the jack stands in place, and was wondering if they were well secured. One of mine had loosened up over the years and ovaled the mount holes. You may want to check carefully now because although I was able to remove and remount one with the hull together, it is a bear to say the least. One of my next issues to address is finding a replacement push-pull cable on the right side. It is really stiff when cold......

Keep posting as you go, this is good stuff and helpful to the rest of us KID owners.

Regards - Bob

[millerperf]

bob
I found that the big sprocket shaft bearings and shaft where worn bad, these are needle, roller bearings also you idler bearing will most likely show wear! your shafts will need replacing I have some if you have any questions im happy to help mark

[MyNewKID]

Mark,
Thanks for the advice. Both large 35-3 sprockets in the jackstand seemed OK and rolled rather smoothly without chains, but maybe that is not a good test. Do I need to pull them apart to see the wear? Also, the shaft you mention, are you talking about the ones in the jackstand and idlers, or are you referring to the axels? I have mostly focused on the engine and basics, of chains, rubber tires, etc since purchasing the beast in the fall, so any thoughts and guidance on what to look for in the axels etc other than feeling for wear by moving or shaking the wheels would be appreciated. Right now I am replacing the fuel pump with a Facet 60301 to see if my lack of power is low fuel flow. The old seems tierd. The KID operates fine plowing down hill, but she really boggs down under heavy load or when I try to open it up to full throttle (I mean pushing the trannies at full speed). It had a 1969 air filter in when I got it so the fuel filter is likely suspect as well.
Bob