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Help identifying my new 6x6

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  • #16
    Hey Brent

    Good luck with gettin' her goin' again. I like the old Chap's body style. Very cool machine.
    sigpic Attex, there is no substitute

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    • #17
      Alright, it's finally back home and in my driveway! (went and sprayed it out before getting it home, so it's still a bit wet). The engine is a 399 cc Rotax engine (have the tag available to look at, but I'm pooped - don't want to go outside to look until I go to have a smoke). Anyone know which Rotax model that would be? And if there's a rebuild kit available?

      The body is in pretty rough shape, I think I'm going to have to gut it so I can work on the body. Although the axles turn alright (not that alright with flat tires) I'm sure they're rusted inside, so I'll have to figure out how to get those apart and rebuild them (and where to find seals and what not).

      One question, was this intended to have two rows of seats? It almost looks like it, and my uncle suggested putting a single bucket up front and a bench in the back (not a real fan of that idea, but two benches might be nice - but pushing the weight limit a LOT).

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      • #18
        The model of the engine is a type 401. They were only made from 69-72 so all the parts should be the same. I dont know if parts are available for that engine anymore, but if you have decent compression, maybe points, condensers and a diaphragm set for the carb will get you running.

        Tillotson Carburetor Parts
        Last edited by bigmandengo; 05-09-2009, 09:36 PM.

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        • #19
          I read on another forum that Winderosa might have a gasket for it, but I'll likely take it to someone else to rebuild. That way it gets done right the first time.

          And I've come up with a list of modifications I would like to do (preliminary, of course).

          -Drill out the rivets connecting the top and bottom pieces
          -Have two large metal "gaskets" made to attach to the seam between the top and bottom pieces, with squares cut out for carriage bolts (to attach them together); I'll out a strip of rubber or something between them when connected so I get a good tight seal that's waterproof; I'll also have a bracket done up to connect to the front of the gaskets so I can make a bumper
          -Rubber moulding around all the exposed edges (mainly the engine cover and the piece that is right above my legs)
          -Another metal "gasket" to go on the flat top section that curves around the passenger compartment (which I'll call the arm rest) for reinforcement, with removable padding on top (think of the padding they put around the edges of waterbeds). That'll make it more comfortable and provide more protection against damage
          -Cover engine compartment - engine cover, sides, bottom, everything - with some sort of insulation (like http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/th...er_index.php); maybe paint engine, not sure if that's a good idea or not- opinions?
          -Reconnect the two floor panel pieces - broken in half right now - and strengthen with metal brackets (probably between the mounting holes); spray floor panel with truck bed liner
          -New seat with marine plywood (special plywood that's mostly waterproof)
          -Filters on all the vents
          -Replace the single light on the top front with two new ones
          -Turn signals
          -Brake lights
          -Cup holders
          -Cigarette Lighter Sockets
          -Fuse box with master cutoff switch (maybe breaker box if I can find one)
          -Engine bay light
          -Hydraulic lift for engine cover, engine cover lock
          -Locking gas cap
          -New ignition switch
          -Metal chain covers
          -Gauges (gas, tach, run time, altitude/level, speedometer, battery, temperature) - what kind of speedos are available? Since the wheels are driven by chains, could a gear driven speed sensor be used? This page: Corbin Speedometer Drivelines shows what I'm talking about

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          • #20
            Pulled it into the garage this afternoon and drilled out the rivets I could find holding the top and bottom together. Seems that they put a lot of sealant in the seems, I'm going to have a fun time removing it to separate the top and bottom.

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