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**nightwolf2181** · 10-31-2009, 01:58 AM

well im not sure what all it will do yet but i picked one up about a month ago. for 1500 granted mine does run though. It came with a plow, tracks and an extra set of tires as well as the metal top and the beffed up front and rear bumpers. it sounds like you have all the links that ive found so far for it. I just ordered the cd from shoshone industies that has all the manuals on it not sure how long that will take to get here though. I have to replace some chains on one side this week then ill play with it in the snow and let ya know how it does.

**LTV KID** · 10-31-2009, 07:37 PM

kid

Thanks for leting me know. I wondered if anyone knew anything i didnt about it because it is hard to find any information. I'm looking forward to getting mine running (shouldnt take long) already got new seats for it and started replacing some stuff on it today. Hopefully on monday i will get the part im waiting on and it then change all fluids and be able to see what she can do for myself by the end of the week. Then i will take it up to my welding class and make it float. Its going to need to with two straight months of rain her in arkansas all my hunting sloughs and rice fields are full

**tweeter166** · 11-08-2009, 11:11 AM

LTV KID. would you sell your KID? i am very interested in it.
please call me to let me no as i dont get on this board oftan
765 499 1875
i also sent you a PM about this

**Southern Comfort Kid** · 11-24-2009, 01:41 PM

Southern Comfort Kid

Glad to see some Kids out there! My first posting, but should be on more. I'll try to post pix of mine. Not as cheap as yours but was always stored inside, great body & engine. I got it in June and floated it in my pond with some leaks. Make sure you don't climb too steep when exiting water as will swamp and hard to tow with those hydrostats ( have to unhook the master chains).

Also watch that PTO, mine was live without any clutch, so it spins all the time at engine speed and the shaft was slightly bent so it wobled, I removed it. On those videos you mentioned, notice his prop spins all of the time, can't stop it! Not too safe. If I reinstall I'll get an electric clutch.

Sorry to say th previous owner did not do much maintenance but had the original documents for it, so I'm now changing all outer bearings and seals and an axle with a deep score mark from the seal. Lots of greasy goop in the bottem and I don't think the engine oil and filters were ever changed. The air filter had a 1969 date on it.

Also important! Check out the fuel line from the tank to the carb, old fuel line material that was falling apart and the factory air filter mount presses on and wears the line under the filter can and mine was ready to have a bad gas leak. The previous owner knew of another owner whose Kid had caught fire out in the rice fields (probably from that same bad fuel line placement!

Mine had the tracks, front & rear supports and soft top frame, WS etc, but I took it off as I'm a tall big guy. The tracks stress alot on concrete and the rubber "bands" can break, but I'm keeping them for the swamp, I'm just outside New Orleans and a friend of ours has one in Monroe. Go duck hunting!

As the pix shows I had customs adapters made for dually tires, I think this will give me the same ground pressure as tracks with softer ride and add some water boyency? but maybe not as good water speed. It's a work in progress.

The pix show as I got it with tracks and how it looks now with duallys. Keep in touch and we can share info.

Attached Files

**LTV KID** · 11-24-2009, 06:12 PM

there we go

thats what kind of responses everyone should get when they make a thread thanks that was a big help

**Southern Comfort Kid** · 11-25-2009, 12:04 PM

For the dually kits see Xtrememotorworks
These are extremely HD with square tube thru the hubs welded 100%, made for those extreme tractor racing guys, will definitely not tear up. He also has covers for the end and 7/16 stud kits to convert your wheel hub from using stud bolts to much easier auto type studs and nuts. He makes them from grade 5 or 8 rod. I had him cut mine at 2". He custom makes the dually adapters to any width, I had mine to keep the tires tight to keep trash out from between the tires. It has been a great combo for full speed in dirt and in the woods, can't do that with the steel tracks. I just got in a alum floor tred- plate a shop laser cut to cover the front area over the gas tank.

I hope to have recent work completed for a Christmas duck hunt in Monroe. They have a large pond there so we will also do some water testing. Recently installed a kicker alum. bracket for a 8hp yamaha outboard. (for hurricane flood rescues), But I really want to get my PTO prop w/ elec clutch in the future, but no reverse on that. My initial PTO prop testing increased water speed from about 1.5mph to maybe 5! But also without any tiller (like in that video) it just went into a right hand turn, uncontrolled by the tires. Lots of fun!

I like the idea of the alum deck is that only to replace the alum sheeting on the deck? It gets pretty warm from the engine heat blowing on it. I was thinking hood gas shocks or one of those dump bed lifts to lift the steel lid, especially if in the swamp or water.

See a you tube video of the other Kid in the swamp with tracks:

**LTV KID** · 11-25-2009, 02:04 PM

sweet

now i really cant wait to get mine up and running im really glad though, you told me about the PTO clutch and everything that was a great idea, about the back cover i havnt driven mine or any other amphib for that matter, but what i think im going to do is vents in a spot or two and put in some hushmat on the lid and probally on the firewall to reduce heat and noise. Also i havnt done it yet but iv bought the stuff to clean and reseal the gas tank. Its called kreem and iv heard good reviews on it. for the tiller i was planning on just making mine like his but instead of a stearing wheel with cables i was just going to hook cables up to the throttle things on top of the hydrostats and run them right out back to the till (that way i steer with the stick) and dont have some other bulky thing in the cab. for the cab im no to big 5' 10''
so im leaving the hard top puting plexy glass on the back and using jeepstyle doors for the sides. i have pics of mine in the gallery if you havnt already seen them. and my sister is probally going to load some pics of it all torn down too.

**LTV KID** · 11-25-2009, 02:05 PM

oh yea

i forgot nice video it looked like it wasnt even trying at all!! have you ever got yours stuck?

**Mike** · 11-25-2009, 08:25 PM

Great looking KID! It looked like it was moving pretty fast in the swamp even pulling the load it had. Very cool! Thanks for posting and welcome to the site.

**Southern Comfort Kid** · 11-26-2009, 01:13 AM

Ive not gotten stuck but haven't been anywhere really challenging yet. The one in the video has been in that family since the 1970's and I hear has never been stuck and is usually used to rescue all of the other trucks, 4x4s and others that get stuck. Last year 4 of us road in his to duck hunt and I didn't notice any problem at all, that's when I knew I had to find one! Got mine in TX rice fields and I saw a couple more in Houston, but he was really proud of them!

I saw your pix, did your's have a rear deck? There is a space needed under the deck for the engine heat to blow out, let me know if you need measurements off of mine. The engine blows all of the heat out the top fins near the intak/exhaust manifold. The deck actually has ductwork to funnel that hot blast out of the sides of the deck.

About closing yours in with doors etc, A good bit of heat will get into the cab through the transmission radiator between the seats, but I like your metal top. The guy I got mine from said he had the soft top but it got so hot inside they took it off and then it went bad where they stored it. We took off the top frame and are thinking a quick frame to use the kid as a mobile duck blind.

You really don't want to connect anything to those transmission cables, any changes in their movement changes how they activate the pumps for forward, reverse and the speed of each side. Lord help you of they get jammed. Besides they are not equal setups so that might affect the tiller. I had a noticable change in steering/running to the better when I changed a bolt & nut connecting the cable to one pump(that had the very slightest slack) with the correct pin and clip like it should have.

Instead of that steering wheel setup like he had in the video I was thinking a stick steer unit that does the same thing as a steering wheel but is a lever mounted to the sidewall that u would just push forward for right turn and pull back for left turn. And don't forget to mount bilge pumps, because of the way the bottom is made with high and low areas I'm putting 2 in at the very rear. And make sure every bolt, etc in the hull is sealed. I'll post pix when done. All switches are going on a new dash I've installed, I'm also going to mount a tach and maybe oil pressure gauge.

Good luck with yours

**Southern Comfort Kid** · 11-26-2009, 01:40 AM

Here's a picture of when I trailered mine home and the dash panel.

Attached Files

**LTV KID** · 11-26-2009, 01:05 PM

you can read my mind

i like the gauges i plan to do the same if you didnt know my motor is stuck and last night i took the tin around the motor off. If you havnt done that i would because in the tin there is room for air to blow by the cylinders and one side of mine was cloged up with grass (fine grass like the stuff that gets in the pulleys of riding lawn mowers) i think what happened to mine was it got hot and froze up. Then i took the heads off and man my motor had so much carbon build up so now im into rebuilding the motor. when the motor turns over is going to be the turning point in the project. then i can put in all the new oil iv bought (25 quarts) drop the body on it and start with all the great ideas iv got and use all this great advice. ill post some pictures soon of the motor all torn down too it looks pretty neat. Now you know why i got mine so cheap lol i would have paid another 500 or 600 hundred dollars for a motor that would turn over. but it is probally for the better because when i get it running i know everything will be in great shape. And i do have the rear deck but thanks anyways. what paint did you use i like it. i think im going to use the paint the army uses that olive green with a cammo or white star on the front of the kid.
Does it really go 25 mph?

**Southern Comfort Kid** · 11-26-2009, 06:28 PM

I haven't quite checked the speed yet but on the street I had it up to when the governor kicks in, seemed like 20+. The paint I used is Rustoleum camo colors from Home Depot, OD and tan. I have Army OD Chemical resistant paint that I used on my military pickup but its too expensive and tell you the truth the rustoleum does just fine. I'm using rustoleum rubberized undercoating on the bottom and all sides below the water line. When finished I think I will add some black, brown to the camo job. Let me know how the motor rebuild goes. Thanks for the engine tin tip I think I will pull it all down just to be sure!.

**tweeter166** · 11-26-2009, 09:03 PM

Kid 8x8's. is there anything better?

heres something i thought was neat. a kind of over head rack. i just bought this diesel Kid off a duck hunter that built this rack to put his johnboat on top of his kid to duck hunt out of when he got to where he was going.. i like the rack idea as it could be used for alot of stuff..i thought you guys might like the idea also

Southeren comfort. are those just fender flares on your Kid or are those the optional Float tubes? I have heard of the float tubes but have not been able to find me a pair yet.. you want to sale them if they are float tubes?

Attached Files

S6301278.jpg (61.4 KB, 158 views)

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1969 LTV KID ATV

1969 LTV KID ATV

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