Im building this for my kids (and me), I am open for the "I would do it like this" opinions. I have tested the single long track with some success on keeping it on. I think with alittle more tinkering I can get it to stay on. I am going to test the two tread design after i complete it.
I have a spare t-20 that i will put in the next one after the prototype is complete. I designed it with a torque converter and double grooved pulleys with cogged belts for off the shelf parts design.
It almost thew me off the back of it when test driving just the one side of tracks so i think the 16hp has plenty pep for the job. I want to sheet metal the sides, styrofoam the bottom with sheetmetal skin. Anyone know the floatation calculation of the foam so i can see if it will float. Just brain storming.
Fire away!
I have a spare t-20 that i will put in the next one after the prototype is complete. I designed it with a torque converter and double grooved pulleys with cogged belts for off the shelf parts design.
It almost thew me off the back of it when test driving just the one side of tracks so i think the 16hp has plenty pep for the job. I want to sheet metal the sides, styrofoam the bottom with sheetmetal skin. Anyone know the floatation calculation of the foam so i can see if it will float. Just brain storming.
Fire away!



All the tanks I'm familiar enough with to know have the drive wheel leading, And most other tracked vehicles I know that have suspension have the drive wheel leading.
OK, putting the drive wheel on the back would pull on the road surface of the track, and on an incline or heavy tow especially, load the suspension at least somewhat. On a dozer it would't because there is no suspension. I bet that's the bid difference.



Comment