70' Camel Centipede

[AmphicatMan]

Hiya guys, I picked up a 1970 camel 6x6 today. It's got a 500 cc snomobile engine in it with a t-20, all new tires and stuff. Goes like stink!! But the body is really pretty ratty on it. It's 40 year old plastic after all. I wanted to ask you guys if anyone has ever tried to make a body. Like outta steel. Weld up a tub, say 16 or 14 ga. steel. You guys think that would work ok? Shouldn't be too heavy and would be 100 times stronger. Kinda like a coot only not articulating or anything, but that gives you an idea of what I am thinking of making.

Any input would be great, Thanks guys

Keep the rubber side down!
Jim

[AmphicatMan]

Hey by the by, Does anyone have a breakdown schematic for the t-20 or a manual or anything. One of my reverse "diamond" actuators is really sticky and doesnt go into reverse unless I tap on it with a wrench.

Thanks!

[racerone3]

Hiya guys, I picked up a 1970 camel 6x6 today. It's got a 500 cc snomobile engine in it with a t-20, all new tires and stuff. Goes like stink!! But the body is really pretty ratty on it. It's 40 year old plastic after all. I wanted to ask you guys if anyone has ever tried to make a body. Like outta steel. Weld up a tub, say 16 or 14 ga. steel. You guys think that would work ok? Shouldn't be too heavy and would be 100 times stronger. Kinda like a coot only not articulating or anything, but that gives you an idea of what I am thinking of making.

Any input would be great, Thanks guys

Keep the rubber side down!
Jim

please don't do that with the camel!!!! that machine is pretty rare. the plastic should be fixable and it's too cool of a machine to modify. if you look on the home page of the site (left side) in the "How To Articles" section you will find one on rebuilding the t-20. read it through and you will have a much better idea of how everything works/ goes together

[jerseybigfoot]

The diamond shifter is probably stiff from debris. the shifter comes out by removing the snap ring.

[AmphicatMan]

Thanks for the info guys. I will look through that t20 article. I just like to have manuals and schematics for things. My engineering nature I guess, LOL.

Yeah, I hear what your saying about the Camel, but the plastic is pretty bad and its lost its strucural integrity in places. The gas tank was a bad design in that is sits right on the plastic(large tank as well, very heavy) in the front and is not supported to the frame. This weight makes all the plastic crack and tear underneath the whole front end. There are some other cracks and holes as well, and a few large fist sized chunks missing. Maybe I am weird but if these things aren't amphibious then what is the point exactly, buy a 4 wheeler. I know some of you will slap me for saying that. but it's an unfortunate truth. To me, they lose there charm is they can no longer keep water out and be amphibious. The plastic is 40 years old and very britle. So I don't know. If I could make it look good and work good I would be all for doing the work to keep the original body, but what do you do.... ya know. At some point you gotta call it!

I am inpressed at a few things though, it's got the heavier 60 chain, very thick axles, and the inner frame seems well made.

[LarryW]

follow Hydromikes attex trainer and you will see a machine in pieces put back together. Turned out well. He added flat stock on the body band sandwitched between the halves to add strength. It can be done and still look good. Check his attex trainer out. Maybe you can get some ideas.

[AmphicatMan]

Ok will do, I will take some pic of the holes and damage too. Maybe you guys can give me a way to tackle it. I was thinking too what I could do is make a new lower hull out of steel and put the original top back on(fixed up) to retain the original look and feel. I dunno just an idea.

[AmphicatMan]

Anyone know where I can get some chain tensioners for a camel? I have 3 that are missing.

thanks

[Mike]

Do you have a picture of the tensioners that you can post?

[AmphicatMan]

You know I took one of these chain tensioners off and I realized what it was made from. I don't know if any of you guys are familiar with uni-strut, it's used to hang lights, pipes, heating ducts etc. in buildings, but that is what the tensioners are made from. I know this because I used to work for the construction supplier and used to sell this stuff. So go to your local fastenal or similar place and you can make these chain chain tensioners. Pretty neat really to use off the shelf stuff to make parts. I have to give it to camel they knew what they were doing.

[MarshallEpp]

Sure do it comes in 1 1/2 and what we refer to as 1/2 strut and double strut which is two pieces welded back to back. You can get all sorts of things to fasten to it spring nuts are pretty neat it's a spring loaded nut that will stay where you put it in the strut. And when you fasten something to it it's pretty stable.

[racerone3]

the Hustler machines used the same system. a lot of people have trouble with the nut sliding in the unistrut. I made a bracket for my hustler adjusters that uses 2 unistrut nuts and a delrin roller with a steel sleeve (shown in this thread) http://www.6x6world.com/forums/hustl...-bearings.html I've run the machine for a few hours and no issues yet. my machinist friend who did the rollers for me will make them for anyone for a reasonable price if mine work out well. I plan to take the machine out and really hammer on it next weekend. once that test is done, I'll report back on how they work