If the offset is off it will cause more pressure to one side of the belt than another which results in excess temperature, wear, slippage and performance loss.
If you have specs on your model clutch I guess you could go with that and see how it works...side adjustment can be obtained with shims or at the engine mount.
Gearing to tall [26 inch tyres ]
Bando engine 5600rpm limit
15 teeth t20 28 teeth axle sprocket
Change to 32 teeth axle sprocket
The 32 sprocket will give the same ratio as the max 4
my set up would be then 32 axle teeth 770 driven [770 driven gives lower speeds than 780 driven max 4 ]
With a governed engine i would start with 28 teeth and with a higher reving engine a high number of teeth is desiable
Overall the gearing changes are for a trail machine and not a racer . Bottom end power is ok but nothing special so hopefully in deep mud and sand the gear change will help.
I think I'm going to go with a 30 or 32 tooth axle sprocket and use the red driven clutch spring. This seems like a good combination, especially after driving Hydromike's Swamp Fox, which is set up the same (with 30 tooth sprockets) and the Kubota engine that turns roughly the same RPMs as my Kohler 23HP Command V twin would.
"Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
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I was pleasantly surprised at how well the clutch worked on my 'Fox, like JP says. I just rebuilt the sprocket tubes with the stock tooth count (30s and 26s....), but I think I have a bit more pre-load on the driven clutch than stock. When I put the red spring in, I advanced the spider by one cam-setting. It was really a crap shoot if it would work well, but I think I lucked out. The converter downshifts quite quickly when the machine encounters more resistance, but the Kubota seems to open it up quite well (as fast as I want to go in that thing, anyway.....)
clutch tunning
secondary comet 770, 780 790 [slowest to fastest ]
available in three different styles over the years
3x white slipper
3xblack slipper
6 x black slipper
secondary ramp angle available 26 28 35 41 [from memory ]
the higher or larger the angle the quicker the acceleration
then u get to the springs fine tune
NB not all springs interchange, springs of the same colour can be different
springs are relevant to the slipper type colour [generation/style of secondary]
max 4 has 34 teeth on axle /15 t20 with a 780 driven
My swamp fox is changing gears correctly eg a little slow with the 770 28degree red spring, with no bogging in deep mud and due to bando engine then accelerates quickly compared to stock engine
The comment would be it needs a litte more bottom end eg gear ratio change .Top speed is more than i need also
Hi to ya all ..
Swamp fox going great .I hope everyone enjoys the pictures .
[refer to my picture album ] If someone could post a link that would be great .
Finally finished and luving the trips the family and I go on .
The park rangers have a little trouble catching us .ha ha ha
Learnt a lot during the build specific to AAtv
Any questions just ask . From time to time I will post some building tips that I learnt from building the Super Swamp Fox
Some features that are not obvious but may be of interest
Taper lock sprockets and keyways
Vent stainless steel discs
Hydraulic Yamaha front disc calipers [RD350 or Radian ] twin 43 mm pistons /caliper
3/4 master cylinder
foot pedal from a Honda utv
caliper mounting was from a Attex thanks Don
Shift lever control springs from Max 4 etc
Floor shift lever for fwd and rev
Axles either retained by bolts [3] or threaded and use castle nuts with a cotter pin [3]
72mm bearings inner and outer
4 bolt Cast bearing housings
triple seal outer and twin lip inner
Recommend to Use only 62mm inner as it allows the ID to be 1 inch which creates a shoulder in the shaft for the axle bolt or nut to tighten against .
I had to make up some spacers with a shoulder to tighten against
Transmission top hole has a 12 inch 3/4 hose with a breather attached to it [no more weeping oil leaks from breather plug hole ]
Transmission lower hole I have a hose connected to drain into container when filling via top hole there is now no more mess .
Adapter plate mounting of t20 The trans has a plate and the chassis mounting plate has a trans plate welded to it . Install the trans and there is now 2 plates on either side of the transmission [1/2 inch on each side of trans ] . Pass the bolts thru both pairs of plates and you r done .
Middle axles have remote grease lines for the inner bearings
Tow hooks /tie down points on all wheels and front and rear
External muffler stainless with a 100% water proof seal when pipes went thru body this was a suprising success
Spaced muffler well = no burning of the body work
All wiring soldered insulated
No joiners in wiring
All electrical switches water proof [vinyl/rubber insulated ]
The exhaust cylinder head 1 inch pipes are cut off the original style muffler . 1 to 1 1/4 adapters are welded on . 1 1/4 Flex is then used
1 1/4 flex was easiest to purchase and also seems to bend easier than 1 inch
The muffler has a 1 1/2 outlet
There is a weld on spark arrestor on the out let
The aluminum /rubber rub rail molding on the the body was the hardest to source.[remember the alloy strip may fit but u have to get a rubber also ] typically sold as a pair but not always
The motor was overhauled to Badalero -600 racing spec
The fuel tank holds around 30 litres
The wheel stud flanges are from a car .The car axle is machined out and 1 1/4 bar installed
The chassis has 6 1 1/2 diameter 3/16 wall crossmembers . Explaination ... The orginal design has only 2 cross members ,not only is this to keep the complete chassis marginally stiff the design is mainly to keep the power pak very rigid . The 4 corners of a swamp fox chassis are actually flexable.I used the front to rear spacing of these 2 original members but only passed them thru the 2x inner c channels thus making the power pak rigid . The other 4 tubes are installed across all 4 c channels
Wow, what a build. Very impressive. I think you were wise to reinforce the frame too. My rear crossmember has twisted under the stress of my 25hp/44+ pd torque diesel. I've got the machine torn down (again) for a full overhaul.
I'm going to do something similar for braking as well. I also have a set of synthetic bearings that I may use.
Can't wait to see some footage of Tomo's machine in action.
Hi ,
Apologies for not getting back to every one sooner .
Thankyou for the compliments.
Have to love a big machine such as the SSFox .May not be zippy like an Attex but is a very capable at trail duties .
The orange is a fun colour and represents our feelings when operating it .
Yes for me storage was a priority so the seat engine trans cover had to fit similar to original with the power pac using as little space as possible .
This was very challenging design.
The front engine valve cover clears the seat by only 1/2 inch
The steel work it came with when purchased was not original and was very very poor design and construction
ALL THE STEEL WAS REPLACED
Axles ,chassis ,control linkages, engine and trans cradle mounts,
tensioners etc etc
Thanks to many people for pics info and critical dimensions
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