chris davidson
Several years ago there was an amphib that used hydrolics to raise and lower the tub. I think when the tub was fully raised it had about 18 inches of ground clearance. I was also able to raise one side up and lower the opposite side down for driving on side hills. It also had a retractable prop that opporated with a lever to move it inside and out side of the tub.
This is a web link that has a small picture of the Amphibitruck. The picture of it is about 3/4 down the page.
The Amphiclopedia Am to An
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Custom made volkswagon powered 8x8 with sea doo pump
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Like I said in another post If I had it to do over again I would use trailing arm suspension with wheel motors( Hyd of course) that way i could rotate the suspension right up out of the water. Ive never seen a hydrotraxx or coot or hustler or anything but an Argo conquest and thats when I decided to make my own. I dont think there is anything out there like what I want.
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Hi Chris, I've been just sitting back and enjoying your progress. Regarding the duct idea for the props, I considered that approach back in my Hoot days, as the Hoot has a square support member (duct) running down the middle intergrated into the floor. Also this is the method Hydratrek uses to supply water to it's dual prop setup. It works fine. But my problem was more related to prop rpm, gearing up from the axle doesn't give you enough rpm to do it justice, no matter what pitch the prop is. The Hydratrek doesn't have that problem because they use a hydraulic motor, and use large fine pitch props.Originally posted by chris davison View PostWow what drag I have so many parts and so much I could do and Im stuck working 7 days a week on graveyard some days 10 hrs. thankfully I finished Hydraulic school. Hey Ray I have an Idea on your props
in the water if you cant lower them below the hull can you weld in a 6 in diameter aluminum tube thru the hull from front to rear ending dead center of the props? or even start them some where in the bottom
tilting up to the props? this would make reverse effective also. But they would be really effective if the prop was inside the tube.
I think you have a much better chance to get some decent water speed using a jet pump, you should do a little better than the Chinese Argo guy that uses a similar setup, because of your hull design. I do have a swing down prop design, but it adds more complexity and didn't pass the cost/benefit analysis. IMO, the only way to get "real water speed", is to raise the tires out of the water, and design for a semi or planing hull. Chris your half-way there. Put that hydraulic course to use, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.
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Wow what drag I have so many parts and so much I could do and Im stuck working 7 days a week on graveyard some days 10 hrs. thankfully I finished Hydraulic school. Hey Ray I have an Idea on your props
in the water if you cant lower them below the hull can you weld in a 6 in diameter aluminum tube thru the hull from front to rear ending dead center of the props? or even start them some where in the bottom
tilting up to the props? this would make reverse effective also. But they would be really effective if the prop was inside the tube.
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Well iv'e bolted the winch on the front revised some support bars. My exhaust sys. has arrived and will need modification. Just waiting for some cash to do some machine work on all the parts. I have also recieved some 1/8 Delrin to go under the axle chains so they dont rub the bottom of the hull so now I can install all the chains on the axles and start to devise chain tentioners.
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Just purchased a solid aluminum fan pully to bolt a 1.5 in timing belt pully to and found on ebay 5 1.5 in. pullys 4.75 in dia. for $78.00 just what I needed to power the Sea doo pump. Hopeing for the big test this summer.
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Can you Imagine sitting around the campfire around the lake late at night and suddnly you hear a volkswagon bug out on the water putting around with 4 big head lights.
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That means alot comming from someone as experienced as you RayLast edited by chris davison; 01-04-2011, 01:45 PM.
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Looks nice. I commented on the photo you posted on the VW motor thread, but I see you have been quite busy. Very nice work.
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Chris, that looks real good, I can hear it running. Very nice arrangement.
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I was also happily supprised , Didnt remember that it is only 14.5 inches long still have to add a timming belt pully to the fan pully then go to clutch and shaft then to the pump drive thats the shaft you see from the rear towards the engine.
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chris davison
I was surprized at how much room you still have with the VW motor in it.
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Wow with the engine installed I still have a good 20 inches from the rear pully to the sea doo pump housing. Bored a hole for the pump drive shaft thru the rear of the hull and installed the shaft its to long and will have to be shortened. Fabbed a dash board and will install the stock VW speedometer and my fish finder need to buy some more metal and bolts though. Any questions? any suggestions?
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