Anyone on here a welder?

[Beeman]

I'm looking to weld some aluminum (up to 1/4") and was wondering if anybody could steer me in the right direction or what to buy. I've got a little migpac 30 for steel, but I've read that it's not worth converting it over to feed aluminum wire.

[LTV KID]

My advice would be to buy your aluminum and fabricate whatever piece you are needing and take it to a friend or any local welder with a tig to put a bead where you want it. (should be less than 25$ bc thats about what a tig welder average hourly wage is) as for converting your machine with a spool gun.... thats a lot of time/effort/money for a weld that in the end will not rival that of a competent tig welder

[thebuggyman1]

LTV KID is right. I can mig weld, and tig weld steel, but when it comes to aluminum, it is a completely different skill. I would not trust my welds on anything that needed to be strong or leak free.

[Groundhog]

I have a 120v mig and converted it to weld aluminum. My end result was not all that good. The machine didnt have enough power, even when overdriving the input to 150v. After some practice, I could weld 1/8 alum. The quality was fairly low at best. I used a professional spool gun and 220v unit recently. It worked quite well. The weld quality was decent. My overall opinion is that you can not even get close to high quality alum welds without a tig. Everything must be spotless clean.

[Noel Woods]

I agree, TIG is the way to go. I would consult a competent, local welder who is skilled with working with aluminum. I would actually stick w/steel if its for an offroad amphib.
Maybe a company will come forward with an aluminum bodied AATV someday. I would venture to say that it would be comparable in cost to HDPE or UHMW, and could be tig welded if the need arose for major repairs, and a mig would work for add on stuff.
Beeman, what are you working on?

[Beeman]

The application right now specifically will be to weld on spigots/standoffs onto the back of 1/4" aluminium letters for building front signage. I could source it out, but I'd rather have a full turn around package from my shop without having to rely and wait on other people. As I get round to doing more aluminium work, I plan on a lot of plate butt joints - and working on the gaganator diff box (1/4" aluminium plate on the sides, 3/16" bottom and top plate and gussets.. etc).

I have heard Tig is the best choice. Any makes/models? I'll be wanting to spend the time to be able to master the craft... but learning on a machine that even the best have issues with is a road I don't feel I want to go down again (buying something cheap that is said can do the job).

[Noel Woods]

Hobart makes some good TIGs. I've used some over the years, I'm with you, its not like a mig or stick welder, it takes some attention to detail and steady hands.

[msafi65]

I fab in aluminum and have a 180 amp Linclon TIG-stick welder. I would recommend 225 amps if possible.i find TIG on aluminum above .060 is fun. A stainless wire brush that is dedicated to aluminum only is a must. preheat with lp torch saves on argon. My son brought over his spool gun setup and its fast but dificult to get the pretty welds. i have learned to stitch up racks ect. with the spool gun then dry wash (go over )with the tig to make them look good. Clean weld areas and practice make for good welds. I'm of the trifocal glasses age and my sight is really hurting my welds. Might try taking a welding class at a local trade school or something. good luck

[mustangwagz]

A stainless wire brush that is dedicated to aluminum only is a must.

Yup, This is a MUST!!!!!!!! why not just a typical old steel brush?.. Well, believe it or not but when you use a brush, it actually leaves behind VERY TINY particles of metal. When you try to weld the aluminum, those itty bitty particles will give you holes and dirty welds. The ONLY WAY to get good awesome welds on Aluminum is TIG in my personal opinion and alot of other ppl's. Tig can be done on ANYTHING, but it takes time to master the skill. Its like sewing..you'll use both hands and your foot to run a good tig machine. Frazer, if you do plan on buying one, your gonna spend big money on a good machine..otherwise your shooting your self in the foot. and PRACTICE!!! alot dood, trust me. i cannot tig weld for crap..but mig all day long with no issues, and i'm currently learning STICK welding at work, which is another ball game. lol

[MAX IV Mark]

I figured I would mention it since no one else did. For aluminum you need to have a AC tig, not a DC machine. From what I read the the changing current acts like an alternating cleaning/welding cycle.

[Beeman]

Right on!! Well, I appreciate all the info and I'll start my search. I'll make sure I post the unit I'm looking at for comments before I take the plunge.

[lunnex]

I am a certified welder and do deal with signage all the time. If the letters are already "finished", meaning anodized or laquered of painted, the weld will blister it. also chances are you will end up with a protruding dimple on the "good"side of your piece. when tiging alum. it creates wild amounts of heat. What we do at my shop is to drill and tap the stud on. 1/4" should be lots, just be sure to use a depth gauge on your bit so you dont drill all the way through. hope this helps.

[lewis]

Millermatic Passport Plus Portable MIG Welder

I have seen this unit at work and it is great. This puppy is as good as it advertises. Just a little larger that a video camera case. Contractor Did some of the best tig work i have seen with one of these units. He was a great welder! I asked about the aluminum welds and he confirmed that it would make a beautiful weld. His unit was around 2,800.

[Beeman]

Thanks guys, I'll keep that in mind.

[Beeman]

I think I've selected the unit I want. Should have the cash to buy it too! (took some time)

Lincoln Welder