Suzuki engine making scarey sounds

[spookum]

Hi guys. Im having a hard time traking the "rattle or Knock of doom down"

1. Dosent do it when cold.

2. Less pronounced when it isnt loaded.

3. Bought a mechanics stethoscope and checked every where, it is loudest on the bolt of the rear motor mount on the clutch side.... But when i move the stetascope up to the bolts that bolt the motor mount into the engine, it gets quiter? And it is absolutly silent when checking the block....

4. Dumped in 8 Oz of marvel mystery oil, and it seems less loud?

Have a listen and give you .o2 cents please!

Turn it up! I is easier to hear.....

And no, sorry hydraulic lifters with no rocker arms to adjust Wish it had rocker arms to adjust. the Lifters are supposedly "self adjusting"

Going to buy an oil pressure gauge and check the timing i guess. Throw out any and all crazy ideas!

oh and the crank is tight as a heck still, no pay there.

OHHH i have one DOUBLE CHECK HOW TIGHT THE MOTOR MOUNTS ARE!!!!!! Any other sugestions?

[Beeman]

Love the toque air filter!

If it has to do with firing - remove a plug one at a time.. then engine will run pretty rough on 2 cly, but at least you'll be able to sound isolate one of the cyclinders if thats the prob.

[spookum]

good call. The touque was on there for when i had the valve cover off. I didn't want any oil in the carb, screwing up the mass air flow sensor. Good idea, keep them coming ill chase them all down!

[sparkola]

I would compression test at least and more specifically do a leakdown test on all cylinders. Wonder if you have a bad valve seat/valve?

[sparkola]

Not too sure but in the last 4 seconds of your vid, Looks like your coil seems to be vibrating around synchronously with the sounds. Do you see it? Sounds like rod knock from lack of oil, perhaps a spun bearing?

[spookum]

Good idea. the coil was originally secured to the fire wall. Ill move it and try it. What is the proper diagnosis for spinning a bearing?

[MAX IV Mark]

I would also think compression test to start. I think I remember that you had to free this engine up when you got it. Reminds me of an engine I had that I freed up and got running. Even though I got it free and started the rings were still stuck in one piston. Once it went through a few heat cycles it ended up breaking the land between the piston rings when they expanded. I thought it was a rod knock and until I tore the engine down, you couldnt see the issue before the piston came out. But a compression test would have pointed to it. I hope it turns out its something simple for you.
Max IV Mark

[sparkola]

If any of the connecting rod bearings didn't get enough oil, you may have burned or spun a bearing. Prolly impossible to pull the oil pan without pulling the motor but if you pull the oil pan, if it is a connecting rod bearing, that sound would indicate play between the crankshaft and the problem connecting rod cap. Check your compression but a leak down tester is better in my opinion. It will tell ya if you have any cylinder leaks whether they are rings, ring lands, head gasket or valve seals. An easy check is to pull a spark plug wire 1 at a time and see if the noise lessens. If it becomes less noisy then you have found the problem cylinder.

[fmints]

Good idea. the coil was originally secured to the fire wall. Ill move it and try it. What is the proper diagnosis for spinning a bearing?

Knocking in the bottom, metal shaving in the oil.

[fmints]

if any of the connecting rod bearings didn't get enough oil, you may have burned or spun a bearing. Prolly impossible to pull the oil pan without pulling the motor but if you pull the oil pan, if it is a connecting rod bearing, that sound would indicate play between the crankshaft and the problem connecting rod cap. Check your compression but a leak down tester is better in my opinion. It will tell ya if you have any cylinder leaks whether they are rings, ring lands, head gasket or valve seals. An easy check is to pull a spark plug wire 1 at a time and see if the noise lessens. If it becomes less noisy then you have found the problem cylinder.

spoken like a professional, i do agree!!

[spookum]

Keep the ideas coming guys, ill get to them one by one. I went to fire up the eingine and start testing all this.... even bought an oil pressure gauge to check oil pressure but, murphy said no way dude fuel pump didnt turn on. I have a bad connection some where. No biggie, i built it. But the tester was in the wifes car.. in town

True story, it was seized when i bought it. Marvel mystery oil for the win, and a compression test at that time yeilded a 150-160 PSI compression test! At least i drove it 4 times in the argo. I know it works, i just need to get it finished! How ever, i work out side, and mother nature is saying to go screw myself. Sun sets at 5:30 pm, and it didnt get over ten above (ferniheight)..... GRRRRR!


At least i didnt get the upper body and all that other sutuff on it just to find out i had problems! Kind of odd it is going in the toilet, i did run the Geo Metro around for 2 weeks before i pulled the engine. And i wasnt abusive, but i didnt pull any punches....

There are so many variables on what it "could be" ill get it running again and start sorting through the problems. Your guys list of "what ifs" will be gone through, and maliciously sorted through.

But i still do have my fingers crossed that it COULD be a motor mount.... every body deserves to be lucky some time....

[spookum]

Definitely not a motor mount. Now that the snow is gone, time to start this party up. Looks like master rebuild kits are under 300 on eBay.

[Noel Woods]

I agree with the above, check your oil for shavings. You may have a rod in the process of self-destructing. These are simple little engines and there are few moving parts.

[mustangwagz]

ahhh, its from a metro eh!? yup..imma put my 5 bucks on rod bearings. i personally trashed 3 of these motors...all the same thing..rod bearings went bad, snapped off at the crank, and tossed their cookies. haha. nice thing about em, easy to pick up. haha. 2 guys can pick up motor and trans assembly by hand!

[spookum]

It shouldn't be too hard. I'm just bummed that I have to spin wrenches instead of going for a ride! Oh we'll. time to rebuild

If anyone dredges this old thread up I rebuilt the motor. New rings and a crank.... Blow proof gasket set and stainless valves ran me about 700... And mark and I did all the work ourselves. I know it is a diffrent sight, but it is invaluable to other geo meto Suzuki swift or chevey meto builders:

http://geometroforum.com/topic/5141459/1/#new

Also, from my experience, my bottom end troubles are an absolute rarity. These 1.0L engines are stupid strong..... Mine was most likely ran out of oil.... . I actually bought an engine name cing book for 3 cylender engines... They used the 1.0L as the EXAMPLE of how to do it RIGHT.