Engine Adjustment for More Speed

[BRUCER]

I just bought a 2010 6x6 Frontier with a 23 Hp Vanguard engine. I have had it out and can't get it to go faster than 21 Km/Hr. I tried adjusting the governor the way the Smalleng.com website showed but it started to rev at top end and I had to put the governor shaft back to where it was. My question is, can I get more RPMs from my engine by tweeking the governor and adjusting the throttle cable alone or do I have to rebend linkages as the B&S manual says for governor adjustments. I hope there is a simple fix for my low topend problem.
Thanks BRUCER

[JohnF]

Have a tachometer?

To make thing a little more clear, which is it: (I assume your engine is running properly)
1. The engine makes governed RPM but I want more speed. I don't care if I over-rev the engine.
2. When in gear, WOT, on the flat; the engine won't get to governed RPM and my speed suffers.

I am no Vanguard expert but from the reading around here (use search) you can tweek that engine into a firebreather if you want.

#1 is fixed by deleting the governor and I think I've seen some examples on this forum. If not, look for the lawn mower racer folks to have that. (And you still might need the clutch tuning for #2)

#2 is fixed with more horsepower or by tuning your clutch. Post your elevation and maybe someone with your machine has experience at your elevation and can help you pick out driver pulley weights.

[thebuggyman1]

You will not want to rev the engine beyond 4000 or 4100 rpms in stock condition. Each cylinder has a weak push rod that needs to be changed out before you get higher rpms or you risk damage to the motor.
I really don't think that is your problem anyway.....it's more likely in the clutches. Make sure they are cycling fully.

[BRUCER]

Don't want to melt my engine just warm it up

I do not have a tachometer. I just priced one out today at Lordco. I am going to try and check out tuning my clutch first. The thing is, all I want is to get the top end that they say the machine should run at. I don't want to delete my governor all-together because I think it's there for a purpose. It's just at 21 km/hr a fishing trip to a lake that is 100 km. round trip means an overnight stay and with 30 or 35 km/hr it's just a day trip. Also the elevations I run at are from 500 meters ( 1500+ ft ) to 2000 meters (6000+ ft ). Thanks for the help, I'll keep you posted as to my progress.
Brucer

[thebuggyman1]

ATV and Snowmobile Belts - by Dayco

[JohnF]

I have a cheapie tach from ebay. Don't spend too much because you will only use it when you are tuning things.
My inner geek thinks a vibratach would be cool but the cheapie is close enough - and better than just doing it by ear.

Well, I agree with thebuggyman1 and think we should first make sure my assumption is correct. Let's make sure the engine and clutch are working properly and that the belt is in working order.
You'll have to look up the belt width for your belt.
Search in these forums for how to clean and lube your clutches. For lube I use teflon wax. It's a dry lube that doesn't pick up silty sand. (I ride in the Sandhills of Nebraska a lot.) Others use spray graphite. Just make sure you don't get anything slippery on the sheaves.
According to Argo (service bulletin #153), a conquest (that's what I have) should reduce the driver clutch weights by 26g for the elevation change you ride in. No doubt more if using supertracks.
If your drive pulley spring has been shimmed it may be coil binding and preventing full shift out.

[BRUCER]

Thanks JohnF for the info. The Argo I bought is pretty well brand new. The person I bought it from bought it in early 2011 and because of health problems couldn't get out in it and so it sat for a year and a half untill he decided to sell it. It had 3 Kms on it and as I say was in new condition. I lubed the bearings and chains, and did all the other maintenance I thought I should. I will be lubing the clutches next and will be checking into adjusting the clutch weights to my elevation and I will be putting the Supertracks that came along with it on at the end of November. Thanks again, Brucer

[JohnF]

Hey Brucer, no problem.

I have no doubt that the group of folks here will eventually get this worked out. Part of how it works though is that folks come back and let us know how it turned out, so, TAG, you're it! Come back and let us know how it worked out.

[LarryW]

Assuming your engine is revving high enough and your belt is good. Make a line with a marker on your drive clutch from the edge to the belt and take it for a drive. You can see if the clutches are working through the complete cycle. Don't rev it in neutral though, just engaged under load. If the outer edge still has marker left you have some sort of clutch issue.

[BRUCER]

Thanks LarryW for that tip on how to troubleshoot my clutch. I now have alot of things to check and the rain is coming down heavy, so I won't be getting out with my Argo for a few days. I am going to order a tach from Ebay and move from there. Thanks again and I'll keep you posted
Brucer