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FD620D to FD661D

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  • #16
    Awesome manual! Thanks! When I purchased my Argo the fella had started to do the rebuild then gave up so I basically rebuilt it according to what looked to be the right way. This manual actually would have been handy then. Now I can run the wiring the right way when I'm done.lol. I suspect I'll have to be some sort of contorsionist to get at some of those bolts, but it should be a little faster than splitting the shells. I need to put in a bilge pump, the new pistons and jets, rebuild the tranny, clean up the wiring, and add a second battery system...hmmm, might actually be easier if I do the split??? Looking forward to following your thead on this. Thanks again.

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    • #17
      did anyone try this yet?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by AlbertaRider View Post
        ... Or is it the shape of the top of the piston that is different?
        As seen here: DSC00624.jpg

        Pistons on left are for an FD750D and on right are for an FD791D; two engine models from the FD750D family.

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        • #19
          still intrigued here.lol

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          • #20
            Actually FD750D to FD791D

            I have been lazy in making this post as it is the genesis of a journey that began a year ago. Since Plott Hound is making rumblings of making a similar upgrade I thought I better make good a promise I made to document my endeavor.

            This thread was started when I was researching options. Until about a year ago I was figuring I would probably do the FD620D upgrade but found an ad in craigslist for an FD750D (I was hoping for an FD791D) about 4 hours drive distance. It was new old stock - never been run. I watched the ad for over a month and the price slowly fell until one day the owner must have decided he needed it out of his garage and he triggered a pounce reaction out of me.

            I ride in basically 2 elevations: 2000ft or greater than 8000ft. With the FD620D I carry a set of jets and re-calibrate for conditions. Easy peasy on that engine - maybe 10 minutes. On the FD750D it's quite a bit more complicated and doubled due the two barreled carburetor. This got me following the same train of thought as the subject of the thread but with the big block Kawasaki's.

            And so last January I took apart an engine that had never been run except for factory testing to turn it into an FD791D that will do the re-calibration all by itself. What I need is pistons, intake manifold up to air cleaner, and a fuel pump. Piecing this together with new parts gets a person into the realm where you might as well buy a new FD791D but I managed to make a connection to a guy that occasionally parts out oil starved engines. In time I ended up with the two sets of intake manifolds/sensors/injectors/ECUs/regulators from oil starved engines for about the cost of two new injectors.

            Some pics:

            IMG_0288.jpgIMG_0290.jpgDSC00628.jpg

            The pistons I bought new and are pictured earlier in the thread. And darn it, I didn't have a picture here at work of the complete engine but I bought the sticker that says FD791D to make it official...

            By the way, that's a folding table in my dining room. The old winter shop. I long ago used to use the dining table but my wife and I decided that had to change. Since then I have remodeled my garage and it has heat.

            What you see:

            Pic 1 is the intake manifold with all of the sensors and injectors for DFI. Just in front of the air intake (top black with the sticker on it) is a gold colored part with a hose attached and directed to the bottom of the picture. This is the fuel regulator. The big block Kawasaki's have two air intake configurations and this manifold is from an engine with a remote air cleaner. My FD750D has an integrated air cleaner and I am going to use this. To the left of the regulator is the bracket to mount the air cleaner plate. Anyway, I had to switch this regulator as the integrated air cleaner only fits if the regulator has that tube facing back (to the right in the picture) and underneath the air cleaner.

            Pic 2 is an ECU with the mounting bracket.

            Pic 3 is the air cleaner plate that goes on top of the intake manifold. It is showing the hole I had to cut for the intake air temperature sensor that has that green socket attached to it on the intake in Pic 1.

            Getting this all into me conquest will be a thread in the Argo forum.

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