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Early 80's KT17 Spark Issues

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  • Early 80's KT17 Spark Issues

    8x8 KT17 early 80's Argo:

    So I have had a spark problem..Tested the coil and it was bad so I bought a new one with cables..New coil is good and still no spark. Grabbed new ,points, condenser, plugs and still no spark. Engine turns over hard but no spark..I get a test light, pull the cable from the spark plug and put the tester in to where the spark plug will go. The testing light does not come on when I crank the engine.(Don't know if that test will work but seemed to make sense to me :P). (Checked both fuses and they are ok)

    When the ignition is in the on/run position, both the + and - sides of my ignition coil get power.

    I have been through the service manual and searched here on the forums but I am officially stumped!

    What I am thinking:
    ->The condenser gap is to large or not enough when I installed it??(Will that stop it from sparking).
    -> Faulty key ignition(Maybe a kill switch in the ignition is faulty?. How do I test?
    -> Could it be something to do with timing that is stopping me from producing a spark.

    Any help would be great, my head is hurting from banging it on the wall.
    Last edited by Mike; 05-16-2013, 06:04 PM. Reason: moved thread from Argo forum to engine forum

  • #2
    The gap on a points system is a major factor in the equation. if the points dont open...no spark. If the points are open to the point of never making contact, no spark either. You really need to use feeler gauges, and follow the specs in the service manual.
    "coming through like a herd of turtles"

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    • #3
      Thanks for the quick reply, I just installed it from how it got shipped(Should of definitely double checked) .. I see the points dancing up and down so I will go grab a feeler gauge and check for (.020 fully open).

      We keep you guys posted! Thanks

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      • #4
        Wipe the contact area of the points as well, a lot have a coating on them to stop corrosion in storage.

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        • #5
          Thanks,

          Set it to .020 and cleaned the contacts but no luck..When I put my test light ontop and cranked, the light goes on and off rapidly.

          Any other idea's?

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          • #6
            make sure everything is grounded properly.can you run a lead directly from the battery to the coil?make sure your getting juice there.
            Last edited by plott hound; 05-16-2013, 09:30 PM.

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            • #7
              yeah, if the ground is all good, and still no spark , i think its gonna have to either be the ignition switch or a wiring harness problem.
              Last edited by crashingone2002; 05-16-2013, 09:34 PM.
              "coming through like a herd of turtles"

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              • #8
                The keyswitch sends + 12 volts to the + terminal on the coil in the run position.
                Disconnect the + terminal on the coil when you test the keyswitch.
                Points open and close the negative terminal on the coil to send high voltage to the sparkplug.

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                • #9
                  I tested with disconnecting the + terminal to the coil and the points still do the dance. I hooked up the + and still no spark... What I did notice once in a while is if I held part of the wire right before the boot I got a very very small shock..I am wondering if I am not producing enough volatage. I am going to grab an ignition tester to plug in and see how much voltage is making it to the spark plug and report back.

                  As for ground :P...I spent some time searching for it and figured out my ignition system doesn't have a ground on it. I thought I was crazy until the search feature on the forum told me otherwise (it's an old points engine, so you just shut off the 12v to the coil to shut the engine off),http://www.6x6world.com/forums/argo-...-series-2.html).

                  I will let you guys know what the ignition tester tells me.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    there should be a good connection from the points to the - terminal on the coil. 12v + to + side of coil. you dont want to let the coil fire without a sparkplug connected to it and grounded, the coil will build up 30,000 volts and with now where to go will burn up the windings in the coil.I would put your test light on the + and - of the coil and turn the engine over by hand, you should get a test light up when the points close. a 12 volt test light in the plug boot will just burn the bulb out with 30,000volts.

                    did you replace the plug wire from the coil to the plug ???

                    Just reread your op, when you got the new cable, ( sparkplug wire ) were the ends already on it or did you have to assemble it ?
                    I ask because before I put the brass connectors on , I strip about a 1/2 " and fold the wire back to make good contact with the brass teminal ends.

                    Hope this helps,
                    Scott

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by buzybrit View Post
                      I tested with disconnecting the + terminal to the coil and the points still do the dance.
                      Is there 12 volts on that wire with the key on?

                      If no power connect a temporary wire from the battery positive to the + on the coil and see if you have spark.

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