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  • kohlers motor identifying

    i know its a kohlers and i think its around a 25hp motor anyone know.. i dont know if this thing even runs i got it for free but it turns over and seems to be ready to fire up if it was all together photo(33).jpg

    i started to rub the tag to read the numbers but they are being rubbed off so i stopped be for it was polished aluminumphoto(34).jpg

  • #2
    725cc is a 25hp. Now Kohler is calling it a ch730

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    • #3
      Originally posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
      725cc is a 25hp. Now Kohler is calling it a ch730
      thank you!

      good motors right? 25hp good number to work around with?

      anyone got a starter mine wont turn the motor over with the plugs in.. motor looks like brand new inside photo(35).jpg inside the carb looks the same

      plugs look like it ran yesterday motor looks 20 years old on the out side

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      • #4
        Kohlers are good motors.

        Try this starter http://www.6x6world.com/forums/parts...r-starter.html

        Comment


        • #5
          HI
          The 25HP have a accelerator pump kehin carby [remove air cleaner and have a look ]
          The butterfly bore is 28mm

          The 23hp have a 26mm kehin carb with NO accelerator pump

          Early v twins up till about 5 year ago had Nippon denso starter motors [Japanese made ]
          Believe it that these were rubbish starters [were intended for smaller engines ]
          The later starters are the Taiwan made Delco starter .

          As with all small engines mainly b@s vanguard,, kohler etc use a very large battery and at least automotive cables in size for pos and neg . Measure at the solenoid that ur achieving 9.5--10.0during cranking . The small siginal wire to solenoid be at least battery voltage 12v or greater . This wire typically runs thru the ignition switch which causes voltage drop .

          Most of the time the starters will grind the teeth on the flywheel and starter bendix then stop working
          Grab a file and tidy up the leading edge of the flywheel if this is the case . Beaware that the flywheel teeth can be worn so bad a new flywheel is required .

          The very old approx. 2002 and earlier 25hp had ""nikil sil ""cylinder bores These cannot be reconditioned . u need the numbers to check with kohler or find out what was the original machine it was fitted to then approach kohler again .
          With the 25 hp kohlers they run hot when only pushed a little """"""""this will destroy them """""

          tomo
          Last edited by Tomo; 07-03-2013, 09:28 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Tomo View Post
            HI
            The 25HP have a accelerator pump kehin carby [remove air cleaner and have a look ]
            The butterfly bore is 28mm

            The 23hp have a 26mm kehin carb with NO accelerator pump

            Early v twins up till about 5 year ago had Nippon denso starter motors [Japanese made ]
            Believe it that these were rubbish starters [were intended for smaller engines ]
            The later starters are the Taiwan made Delco starter .

            As with all small engines mainly b@s vanguard,, kohler etc use a very large battery and at least automotive cables in size for pos and neg . Measure at the solenoid that ur achieving 9.5--10.0during cranking . The small siginal wire to solenoid be at least battery voltage 12v or greater . This wire typically runs thru the ignition switch which causes voltage drop .

            Most of the time the starters will grind the teeth on the flywheel and starter bendix then stop working
            Grab a file and tidy up the leading edge of the flywheel if this is the case . Beaware that the flywheel teeth can be worn so bad a new flywheel is required .

            The very old approx. 2002 and earlier 25hp had ""nikil sil ""cylinder bores These cannot be reconditioned . u need the numbers to check with kohler or find out what was the original machine it was fitted to then approach kohler again .
            With the 25 hp kohlers they run hot when only pushed a little """"""""this will destroy them """""

            tomo

            i have determinded its off a log spliter it has wood shavings all over it.. thanks for your advise

            do you guys think this would be worth putting in my amphicat? dont look like a hard deal to make work.

            Comment


            • #7
              hi
              need to no your shaft diameter to see if its suitable for a clutch either 1 inch or 1 1/8 is fine
              If ok install and measure compressions and oil pressure and leak down if u have a guage .
              U need the numbers to determine if nikil sil bores [also the bores are badly pit when worn and or overheat ]
              Engine size group can be determined by first carby and numbers and then pulling a cylinder head and checking oil drain slot in head . This will approx. tell u the vintage and u can measure bore size also.

              There are problems with this engine but all engines have problems
              A kohler v twin has upgrades to 90% of the parts over time

              tomo

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by thenewguy View Post
                i have determinded its off a log spliter it has wood shavings all over it.. thanks for your advise

                do you guys think this would be worth putting in my amphicat? dont look like a hard deal to make work.
                I would suggest selling it, and using something a little smaller in the Amphicat. A Duromax 16hp (or harbor freight) would make a good choice. They run great and are inexpensive. Amphicats were not known for their strength, and adding that much extra hp will just stress things more.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
                  I would suggest selling it, and using something a little smaller in the Amphicat. A Duromax 16hp (or harbor freight) would make a good choice. They run great and are inexpensive. Amphicats were not known for their strength, and adding that much extra hp will just stress things more.
                  Sorry maybe I should say my ampihcat is not close to stock and I'm considering finding a t20 to put in
                  It's already upgraded to 1 1/4 axles and max II sprockets the whole thing is torn apart and being restored so perfect time to consider a project like this also frame don't look weak in any way ether

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    With a T-20 and #50 chain you should be OK.
                    Last edited by thebuggyman1; 07-04-2013, 09:20 AM. Reason: Quality #50 chain

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
                      With a T-20 and #50 chain you should be OK.
                      Thanks for your opinion suggestion where I could find wiring on this motor?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You probably have 5 wires to worry about....
                        Large battery+ wire to the starter
                        Small 12v+ wire to the starter solenoid while starting
                        W/ignition on, 12v to the carb (fuel shut off solenoid)
                        W/ ign off - or chassis ground to a single wire from under the flywheel (this kills the motor)
                        The last wire is 12v+ from the voltage regulator to the battery (charges the battery). The regulator is probably under the air shroud next to the flywheel where it will get coooled. This wire may already be connected to the starter terminal.

                        Your picture looks like the motor has a key switch on it??? If so, you will find the kill and carb wires there.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
                          You probably have 5 wires to worry about....
                          Large battery+ wire to the starter
                          Small 12v+ wire to the starter solenoid while starting
                          W/ignition on, 12v to the carb (fuel shut off solenoid)
                          W/ ign off - or chassis ground to a single wire from under the flywheel (this kills the motor)
                          The last wire is 12v+ from the voltage regulator to the battery (charges the battery). The regulator is probably under the air shroud next to the flywheel where it will get coooled. This wire may already be connected to the starter terminal.

                          Your picture looks like the motor has a key switch on it??? If so, you will find the kill and carb wires there.
                          your right it does have a key switch but im gonna do away with that if i use this motor but that dont matter right now... someone cut some of the wires so thats why i was wondering.. i could prob get it back together few piece still hooked up and just need spliced few hanging with nothing to splice back in..

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            hi ,
                            if u ring kohler even with the partial numbers u have [did not see photos before ] they may be able to fill in the rest for u . The 25hp is common to 26,27,28,30hp there are major components that r interchangeable .
                            Workshop manuals are free online [with wiring diagrams]
                            There is a big chance u will have a earth wire on the inlet manifold bolt ,attach this some where else

                            U have a spark advance module SAM there is a different wiring for these
                            There is analogue and digital units either the coils interchange or the modules do,, cannot remember ask kohler
                            People blame the SAM module when spark fails [black box ] this only controls advance .
                            Typical for kohler is that spark leaks out of the plug lead to earth .THIS IS SO SO COMMON......

                            U have head bolts ,the later engines have head studs for better gasket seal

                            tomo
                            Last edited by Tomo; 07-04-2013, 04:17 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Tomo View Post
                              hi ,
                              if u ring kohler even with the partial numbers u have [did not see photos before ] they may be able to fill in the rest for u . The 25hp is common to 26,27,28,30hp there are major components that r interchangeable .
                              Workshop manuals are free online [with wiring diagrams]
                              There is a big chance u will have a earth wire on the inlet manifold bolt ,attach this some where else
                              U may have a spark advance module SAM there is a different wiring for these

                              U have head bolts ,the later engines have head studs for better gasket seal

                              tomo
                              well i hooked up the 2 cut wires that went to the starter and i was able to get it to fire up the starters still junk but i got a couple good turns out of it.... it has a 1 3/8s shaft....
                              Last edited by thenewguy; 07-04-2013, 07:30 PM.

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