So I'm in the process of installing the alternator kit. I pulled the top radiator hose off and let it drain. Then popped the cap to take a look and it was still full to the top. It was late by this time so I just set it off to the side leaving the bottom hose still connected. To me this looks like it might be clogged. I plan to remove it and take it to a radiator shop if need be. But looking for some advice before...
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remove it yourself, fill it with strong mix of CLR and cap off hose ends and cap, let soak for several hours and rinse thoroughly.
Repeat if needed.
USE ONLY STEAM DISTILLED water and coolant in system no tap water, that will help eliminate any issue with buildup.
Or just by premixed coolant.MUSCATEER 6x6
Kubota 14hp 2cyl diesel engine, Hagen/Rooter transmission Comet 780 Drive/770 Driven 22x12x8 Bearclaw tyres
Soon to add on a ... RHB31 Turbo..guess that would make it a
MUSCA TUR BOTA then eh?
94 F350 4x4 7.3 IDI ZF 5sp
90 Bronco..awaiting a rebuild like no other = Tons and turbo diesel
Okanagan Similkameen BC Canada
Al "Camo pants"
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I disagree with that advice.
I can see how the CLR will remove at least some of the stuff clogging the radiator, but I think the method breaks down at the repeat if needed step. I don't think you'll be able to tell the difference between a half clogged radiator and a 100% good radiator. You'll see that the water flows down and you'll peer through the neck at the tops of the tubes and it will look good, but if some of your tubes are plugged an inch down from the top you'll never know it and you won't have the full cooling capacity available.
A real radiator shop will remove the top and bottom of the radiator, and then run a metal rod from top to bottom ensuring each tube is clear before putting it back together.
Depending on labor rates where you are, they may just replace the core with a new one, or sell you a whole new radiator. Either option is still cheaper than damage to the engine from overheating.
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Originally posted by phabib View PostI disagree with that advice.
I can see how the CLR will remove at least some of the stuff clogging the radiator, but I think the method breaks down at the repeat if needed step. I don't think you'll be able to tell the difference between a half clogged radiator and a 100% good radiator. You'll see that the water flows down and you'll peer through the neck at the tops of the tubes and it will look good, but if some of your tubes are plugged an inch down from the top you'll never know it and you won't have the full cooling capacity available.
A real radiator shop will remove the top and bottom of the radiator, and then run a metal rod from top to bottom ensuring each tube is clear before putting it back together.
Depending on labor rates where you are, they may just replace the core with a new one, or sell you a whole new radiator. Either option is still cheaper than damage to the engine from overheating.
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Did you remove the drain plug from the radiator?
Will only get about half a gallon.sigpic
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
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Originally posted by phabib View PostRe-reading your post, I wonder if you really have a problem at all. With the bottom hose still connected, where is the water supposed to go? If it doesn't drain with the bottom hose removed, then you've got a problem.2003 Argo Conquest
Wasilla, Alaska
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Originally posted by gokorn1 View PostI plan on removing the drain plug tonight and the lower radiator hose. I may have jumped to conclusions but I figured since the top hose is below the cap and fluid drained from the top cap and and a little more from me tipping it. I figured The fluid would be below the top hose not filled to the neck of the cap.
little hot, I wouldn't mess with it. Just my opinion.
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I pulled it out last night and ran water through it in the sink. I had a bit of green slime come out looks like corrosion from the brass fittings. Other than that there is some scale on the inside but looks to be ok. Going to run a flush when I get it back in.2003 Argo Conquest
Wasilla, Alaska
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Originally posted by gokorn1 View PostI pulled it out last night and ran water through it in the sink. I had a bit of green slime come out looks like corrosion from the brass fittings. Other than that there is some scale on the inside but looks to be ok. Going to run a flush when I get it back in.
JM2CW
Good luck however you choose!MUSCATEER 6x6
Kubota 14hp 2cyl diesel engine, Hagen/Rooter transmission Comet 780 Drive/770 Driven 22x12x8 Bearclaw tyres
Soon to add on a ... RHB31 Turbo..guess that would make it a
MUSCA TUR BOTA then eh?
94 F350 4x4 7.3 IDI ZF 5sp
90 Bronco..awaiting a rebuild like no other = Tons and turbo diesel
Okanagan Similkameen BC Canada
Al "Camo pants"
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Originally posted by riotwarrior View PostMuch easier to soak it filled with a flush out of machine, and no contamination in machine then. You are also able to more clearly rinse it out repeatadly and ensure it is clean...
JM2CW
Good luck however you choose!2003 Argo Conquest
Wasilla, Alaska
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Originally posted by gokorn1 View PostWouldn't the flush help remove the contamination out of the whole cooling system vs just the radiator?
In my experience personally I've had more problems flushing systems with chemicals than when I drain the system, flush with distilled water, drain and then refill with distilled/coolant combo.
This is just my personal experiences and to what I've witnessed.
Do as you see fit, I'm not an expert.MUSCATEER 6x6
Kubota 14hp 2cyl diesel engine, Hagen/Rooter transmission Comet 780 Drive/770 Driven 22x12x8 Bearclaw tyres
Soon to add on a ... RHB31 Turbo..guess that would make it a
MUSCA TUR BOTA then eh?
94 F350 4x4 7.3 IDI ZF 5sp
90 Bronco..awaiting a rebuild like no other = Tons and turbo diesel
Okanagan Similkameen BC Canada
Al "Camo pants"
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hi
I have had great results with LOCKTIGHT RADIATOR FLUSH
1st run with flush for directed time at operating temp
2nd experience has shown that the debris can migrate to the core tubes after flush
3rd have radiator core serviced [tanks removed and debris rodded out ]
4th reverse flush engine with tap water or demineralized water and air pressure [cooling system flush tool]
u will need to remove the thermostat
5 fill with demineralized water run engine to operating temp and dump the water once it has cooled for 1/2 hr
6 fill system with a glycol based coolant with demineralized water 50/50 mix
nb use only good quality coolant in either concentrate or premix
!!!!!!!!! there are different concentrations of glycol grams per litre or ounces per quart ..use the strongest concentration
tomo
ps there are at least 4 different coolants on the market
corrosion inhibitor only never never use this
glycol based anti freeze / anti boil / corrosion inhibitor most common
hybrid this mixes with all things coolant [would not recommend it to mix ]
OATS organic acid technology would not recommend it [will not mix with other coolants ]Last edited by Tomo; 01-12-2014, 03:57 AM.
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