At the risk of sounding stupid. Can anyone tell me where the black wire goes that is on the side of this coil? I wasn't getting spark and when I went in to put new points in I noticed a wire that looked like it was cut. Pictures below.
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I got the thing started but then it runs for a couple of minutes, pops and quits. No spark. I pull the engine, tear everything back off to get at the ignition coils. Play around looking for a problem, check continuity, finally I get spark. Put it back together put it back in the 6 wheeler. It starts and runs, then pop and no spark. What the heck? This sat for a long time, should I replace all of the wires in the ignition maybe?
Second question. I want to run lights, what voltage regulator do I buy? I want one for a JLO 440 and one for this."Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."
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I'd start with the absolute simplest thing and work your way up. When it stalls out and you get no spark, can you replace the sparkplug with a new one to see if it'll spark then? "New" meaning it's known to be good; not just a different plug. What sort of shape are your breaker points in? I know you mentioned that you took a look in there in a previous thread, but points can be fickle when cleaned/readjusted. Did you throw new points in? It almost sounds to me like the points may be the culprit. I wouldn't worry about replacing the wiring yet. Also check to make sure that the external coil (the secondary coil, NOT the one under the flywheel) has a good hold on the sparkplug wire. I'm not sure how the wire attaches to the coil on the Sachs engines, but the plug wire on JLO/Chaparral engines used in my older amphibs actually screwed onto/into a terminal on the coil. Sometimes this connection isn't great and corrosion/vibration lead to a weak or non existent spark.
I'm assuming you're going to be running a battery in both machines, right?sigpic
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Originally posted by hydromike View PostI'd start with the absolute simplest thing and work your way up. When it stalls out and you get no spark, can you replace the sparkplug with a new one to see if it'll spark then? "New" meaning it's known to be good; not just a different plug. What sort of shape are your breaker points in? I know you mentioned that you took a look in there in a previous thread, but points can be fickle when cleaned/readjusted. Did you throw new points in? It almost sounds to me like the points may be the culprit. I wouldn't worry about replacing the wiring yet. Also check to make sure that the external coil (the secondary coil, NOT the one under the flywheel) has a good hold on the sparkplug wire. I'm not sure how the wire attaches to the coil on the Sachs engines, but the plug wire on JLO/Chaparral engines used in my older amphibs actually screwed onto/into a terminal on the coil. Sometimes this connection isn't great and corrosion/vibration lead to a weak or non existent spark.
I'm assuming you're going to be running a battery in both machines, right?"Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."
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If you're in that far do the condenser, with tractors that's generally the culprit.sigpic
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
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Thanks, that is what it was. Runs great now. I have two Attex's and I want to hook the headlights up as well as keep the battery's charge in them. What do I need? Voltage regulator, rectifier? Both? I have asked this question before but so far no one has given me an answer."Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."
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You can get aftermarket regulator/rectifiers at Manufacturer's Supply. I think you'll find that the two-stroke charging system isn't very powerful, but if you don't use the headlights all the time it should keep the battery up. Good luck.Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.
(6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far
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