BS won't start after solenoid fix

[shorty]

Hi All,

My black ground wire from the switch touched my battery lead on the solenoid while I was putting things together. Snap, crackle and pop...smoke started coming up from the engine block. Since then, the engine won't start, either with the switch or the pull cord.

Any ideas?

[racerone3]

pull the flywheel cover off the engine. there should be a black wire coming from the bottom of the coil or coil's. remove these wires from the coil(S) and try starting it (you will have to use the choke to kill the engine, or pull the plug wires) if it fires up like that (and it should) you have fried something in the wiring and not one of the coils. i think on the newer briggs with dual coils, that there is a diode in those kill wires (the ones you just removed from the coils) that kill switch wiring harness should be avaliable from anywhere that sells briggs stuff (mower shop)

to check your wiring, take a multimeter and set it to check continuity. the kill wires to the coils just short it to ground. there should be a connector for them outside the engine tin. hook one meter lead to the vehicle side of that connector and the other meter lead to battery negative . with the ignition switch in the off position you should have continuity, and with the switch in the run or start position it should show open loop. if not you have done some dammage to the harness and probably want to start with a new one.
hope this helps

[GREASEMONKEY]

Be sure to check all the fuses! I'm not sure how it's wired up, but when you are having any sort of electrical problem, track power from the battery to the ground position!

[Roger S]

I think racerone is one the right track. This an argo? The ignition switch grounds the black wire when in the off position. Probably didn't help the switch any either. But the smoke must have been from the diode wire assy.

[shorty]

Will try it

Thanks, guys.

I'll try out these ideas this morning. Just my luck; managed to beg off the Honey-do list yesterday because I just had to get the Bug ready for the long weekend. And then I fry the Bug. Wifey is laughing in her sleeve now. Life ain't fair, but i guess its better than the alternative.

I appreciate the help.

[racerone3]

no problem. if your choke works well enough to kill the engine, you can run it with those kill wires unhooked untill you get them replaced and it won't hurt anything. just make sure you put all the engine covers back on. they direct cooling air from the flywheel to keep the engine cool. (and keep fingers away from the flywheel)

[shorty]

well, that didn't work

You were right, Racerone.

The ground harness assembly was fried. I made a replacement one using a 2 amp fuseable link (Canadian Tire doesn't have their lawnmower stuff out yet - the 2nd week of MAY!?!?! Must be expecting more snow). Anyway, that didn't work. I looked at the switch but it looks ok. So..on to the coils themselves now? It's a Max - Briggs and Stratton 16 HP, OHV. Something tells me this could dent the pocket book.

[Roger S]

You can buy the wire with diodes that goes under the engine cowling, it's not expensive.

[martwell]

B & S wont stop

Hi Shorty, i ve been there and done that couple of weeks ago. If you want a way to stop your engine while waiting for the good part you must take one wire from each coil and put them to the ground independedly but at the same time with a double pole switch to the ground. I got my part at a mower shop for 15$ if i remember well. hope it help...

Martin

[racerone3]

the coils should fire with the grounds unhooked, if not you have fried the coil packs. they are pricey, but if you find the briggs part # and punch it into the search at Mower Parts | Lawnmower Parts they will come up with a much less expensive aftermarket coil that i've had really good luck with. hope this helps

[shorty]

problems ongoing

Thanks for that tip, Martin. First things first- I have to get it running and THEN I'll worry about turning it off.

Its back to work tomorrow. If I can, I'll pull the switch and check it before getting some spare coils. If I'm lucky, I can use the Max on the long weekend...otherwise, it'll be back to the original AATV - rubber boots.

[shorty]

coils

Thanks, Racerone. I'll check it out. I hope they deliver to Canada.
I don't think it is the switch - I looked at it and it seemed ok, only one fused link and it was fine. I can't think of what else it could be - only the coils. Ah yes, it was a wonderful Sunday in the garage.

[racerone3]

did you try starting it or testing spark with the ground wires removed from the back of the coils? if they don't have spark with those wires removed, then the coils themselves are toast. also check mower shops for used ones. i save all the good coils from any engine that i scrap. i have a box of them in various sizes... if i get in a mower without spark, i just go to the box and search till i find one that fits!

[Roger S]

Might as well get this diode assy and install it before replacing coils, etc. From another site:


I assume this is a twin cylinder if so the coils must be diode isolated. If an older motor it will have a small box on the sheet metal tin #1 cylinder side that the coil wires plug into. This is the diodes. On newer styles they are in the wire harness one by each coil. If needed the new wire harness with diodes the part number is 692319 and can be bought at any mower shop that sells briggs parts. List for 8.50. If your older system has open diodes meaning they are blown/bad it will not kill the motor even if the kill wire is connected right.

[shorty]

fried coils confirmed

Thanks, guys. I removed the ground wire harness and cranked it - no luck. I checked for spark - no luck. So here we go...

Question: Model number on this B&S engine is 303447 (type is 0326-01, code is 92062611 - Vangaurd, 16 HP, OHV). The number on the coil is "9204P". I've been searching reference sites, and I have never come across this part number. Can anyone give me an idea as to what alternative numbers I could look for?