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Briggs 23 HP V-Twin runs and quits

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  • #1

    Briggs 23 HP V-Twin runs and quits

    Briggs 23 HP V-Twin runs for awhile, sometimes 2 to 3 min before bogging out and quitting. Checked air lines for cracks, and there are no cracks. Pulling fuel pump to replace. My question is this...
    Does this sound like a fuel pump issue. I removed it and could blow thru the lines with no resistance. Not sure that if that is the correct way to do it or if that will tell me anything. Just before pulling the Mikuni fuel pump, I changed out the inline fuel filter, with no change - still bogs down and quits. Also I have to choke the engine even in the summer when it's warm to get it started, but after I have run it for a short 5 minute time period, it will start right up upon restarting. Just lookin for ideas
    "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"
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  • #2
    Fuel solenoid sticky/ing?
    sigpic

    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
    Joe Camel never does that.

    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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    • #3
      The B&S 23hp runs notoriously lean and overheats pretty often. I sold my one machine so equipped and have never wished for that engine again. I think its a design flaw that Briggs is paying the price on now as both Argo and Mudd Ox have switched to Kohler.

      I discussed w/ a zone B&S rep once, and had to show him a photo of an amphib before he disclosed that 99% of the 23hp will go on pressure washers and air compressors and are not limited to the air in the engine bays, he felt that the manufacturers were at fault for utilizing an engine designed for use on an open frame or skid.

      I know that does you no good, and I tried everything from new fuel pumps, new jets, placing air scoops and grills on the hood, high octane fuel, etc., but at temperatures above 70 degrees f. it always sputtered and over heated, below 70 degrees and it was strong.

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      • #4
        Thanks Noel,
        Did you remedy this issue with the company and were they willing to negotiate anything as far as engine replacement? I mean if they are admitting that design flaw then what are they doing about it if anything. And how did you remedy the issue?
        "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

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        • #5
          The remedy was I got another machine, the 23 B&S machine was sold with a full disclosure to a person up North who will use the machine in a cooler environment. It worked out for me.

          The involved manufacturers have made good by working with Kohler on the replacement motor for the new machines.

          I've heard through several sources that the 23hp should have never been used for an amphib in any place with high humidity and high temperatures. I don't want to bash Briggs because I have several 18hp machines and one big block machine that run as hey should in my hot and humid driving areas. The 23 did not measure up though.

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          • #6
            I use a 23 B&S in my hustler 980. I had to install a large fan that blows fresh air into the engine compartment and open up part of the rear deck for heat to exhaust out. Seems to do just fine here in South Carolina with my modifications. Plenty of airflow is key.

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            • #7
              I changed out the fuel pump and it ran way better. I noticed initially when you pull back on the throttle it hesitates very slightly. But it actually seemed to run better. I was out on it for an hour. I was coming back to the house and when I pulled up off the road and into my driveway, it did the same thing. I have a bulb installed in line and I quickly pumped it and it ran good again. I checked and the line going to the tank is good. I blew air down it and with the cap loose it lifted the cap off of the tank. Also, I kept the cover off of the engine and it was a very cool night up here in Minnesota. Top temp was only 57 degrees. So, I'm not sure what is causing the bogging. I'm looking for more ideas.
              "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

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              • #8
                What is the technique or process for checking the fuel solenoid?
                "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

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                • #9
                  I've looked at several B&S 23hps, all have had the same issue: pull off the fuel pump and when looking at the backside, visible melting of the plastic has taken place. My theory is when the plastic gets soft it expands and reduces fuel flow.

                  I think if you switch the position of the pump away from the valve covers and have a buffer of air around it, the fuel pump should function better.

                  The 23 is a lean engine and not designed for an amphib engine bay.

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