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23 hp briggs

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  • #16
    This is a little off topic. "thejunkman" where in Maine are you? I am in the county.

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    • #17
      Southern part below portland

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      • #18
        One thing that will help between a max to argo is running the muffler out side the body i made my own header setup for my argo and installed a supertrapp like mightymax did on his avenger its a little bit louder but cut the heat issue in half .

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        • #19
          thanks to all you guys for the input ! love this forum. i believe i will narrow it down to the 20 kohler or 21 briggs. i will keep the muffler outside the tub. never thought about there being that much heat difference between a 16 hp and 23 hp vanguard. and thanks mike for the manifold info. either way a new motor will be a big improvment over my old 16 h.p.. especially after sinking it in the water 2 yrs. in a row at busco ! johnboy va.

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          • #20
            John,

            With my engine I would had heating issues so I cut out 3/4 of the top of my back end, for air and for access to the engine without lifting the whole top. Also adding an engine oil cooler is a way to cool an engine. The latest mode I have done was the exhaust I welded up to go up and out of the back of my engine compartment. this help bring the temp down inside of there, also it has a nice simple flow for the exhaust. I gained 7 more mph just from changing the way my exhaust was.
            Hold My B..R and Watch This!!!

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            • #21
              Another option is to add a small fan like 5-7 iches, it could either blow directly on the oil cooler or force feed the cooling fan ( basically turboing the engine fan) to get more air across the block and heads. With the exhaust still outside, the temps should be much lower than an inboard exhaust, a heat shield with some extra metal and a little finesse to catch most of the cooling air from the exhaust side will help to exit it instead of recirculating it through the engine compartment.

              The older air scoops in the Hustler's were both good looking and functional providing the forced air has a place to exit.
              sigpic

              My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
              Joe Camel never does that.

              Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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              • #22
                That's a good idea also adding a small fan to blow on the oil cooler. My motor has a cooler but wonder if worth it tomove and add another small fan the electrical draw is minimal I don't notice it on my voltmeter. I assume those coolers are just plumbed in to the motor no pump other than engine cycle correct? Just increase the oil volume to account for the extra plumbing correct? So far no issues with my motor but thoughts for the future.

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                • #23
                  They are plummed or force fed from the engine oil pump, don't recall if they are inline before or after the filter. A larger cooler could also be added with modifications.
                  sigpic

                  My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                  Joe Camel never does that.

                  Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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                  • #24
                    larger coolers can work but need to be mounted low or they will drain back on shut down and over fill the block, or stave the sump/pump trying to fill it. the pump feeds the cooler then returns to feed the crank etc. cold thick oil will stave a engine if the cooler is too large.

                    Painfully learned those myself

                    my opinion is the 23 runs too lean and causes them heat more than its little brothers, all done in order to pass CA emissions. fatten the fuel and the over heat goes away

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                    • #25
                      super good info !! thanks all. looking forward to the change over. j.b.

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                      • #26
                        Hey Nubs clear your inbox I just tried to send you a message.

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                        • #27
                          sorry, cleared

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                          • #28
                            Johnboy,

                            I run the 23hp briggs in my 980 hustler. I had problems with overheating and i simply cut out 2 spots on the rear deck. One with a fan force feeding air down to the fan side of the engine and another hole above the exhaust pipes.

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                            • #29
                              I tried all the techniques on a 6x6 with the 23hp B&S, running with the hood off, additional venting, a bilge blower that tied in with the intake air and oil cooler, and had a 2nd fan on the brakes for good measure. Nothing worked, and it wasn't because the machine was operated always in tough conditions, in experimenting with the cooling, even running in the yard would trigger the over heating. I was even struck by the fact that several fuel pumps mounted down and had to be replaced. Even moving the fuel pump to a remote area didn't work as it too melted.
                              I mentioned in another post, that I spoke with a B&S field rep, and he told me the 23hp engine was designed to be utilized fully in the open, like for a trailer mounted water/sprayer, or compressor unit. When I showed him the six wheeler application he told me it was bound to fail. This was in a factory made machine.
                              If anyone wants to try the 23 B&S its against my better advise. I also believe that's the reason the big two makes no longer uses the B&S engines.

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                              • #30
                                Noel explain to me the overheating issues you were having fmi.
                                sigpic

                                My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                                Joe Camel never does that.

                                Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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