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Stick with KT-17 or switch to????

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  • Stick with KT-17 or switch to????

    I will soon be tearing into the engine on my old 83ish Argo 8wheeler. It has the KT17 (no labels or stickers anywhere & data plate missing on tin) & as I understand it the connecting rods on these are a splash oil system, no pressure oiling. Engine is functioning OK, I just want to know what it looks like inside. If I tear it down it will at least get rings & gaskets.
    By the way, from what I see there are no replaceable connecting rod bearings? Dop they use something like the old babbot poured bearings?
    So my main question... Should I mess with the old Kohler or go to a modern v-twin like a Vanguard. I don't care about a big hp jump. 17 or 18 would be fine with me. Dependability is my main concern.

  • #2
    An over head valve Vanguard or Command would be more fuel efficient and it's nice to have the full pressure lube system, but if your old Kohler flat head Magnum has good compression, stick with it for now. They're kind of pigs when it comes to fuel, but they make tons and tons of torque down low and have excellent longevity.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
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    • #3
      Like most of the smaller engines the aluminum alloy connecting rod is the bearing material. If they are to badly worn you replace them to get proper clearance. Had a guy in the bush convert a kohler to 18 hp Briggs this summer. We ordered a newer Argo muffler and pipe. Just had to drill hole for pipe back a few inches. He's out in Nome and wanted a modern engine he can get parts for easily. Swap isn't to hard but I believe your clutch is a screw on.

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      • #4
        Thanks guys. I finally got a chance to do a compression test on the kohler today. 75 on one side 80 on the other so its a bit low. It was cold, hasnt been started since sept 25, and the booster box i used was a little low so she didnt spin fast but i dont think all of those things corrected would get it over 90. Need to get it torn down & see how the crank rods, valves etc look. I can get a rebuild kit with rings full gaskets etc for under $200. Too much more than that & i will look at options. Rings & lapping valves should make a big difference in power and drivability.

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        • #5
          I would go with a new fuel injected Kohler Command motor, they are reasonably prices, low maintenance, and will last another 30 years with little effort.

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